I wasent done with the rack yet though i plan on adding fittings for cleaning, this rack is built too bolt too the frame on my truck and the moisture will be pulled up too the candence tank before hitting cyclones or hay filter or both, as i am planning too try Matt Riders set up with no hay filter.i may use a small lighter one butt using the rest of his idea that he says works better than a hay filter at removeing moisture.? I would agree the virticle tubes should drain the best.though the frame is much cooler in summer, i may have too keep in shop in cold winter too keep from freezing cracks.? And the rack being farther away from the gasifier heat should help with condencing. I never took pic of the finish welds because i welded it with ss wire i had. And the welds look like crap because i welded with c02 instead of helium or the ss welding gas, i may sell the ss wire and buy some reg c02 wire.
They are easy to make. Pvc pipe with hose fitting on one end and a end cap on the other, drill holes in the cap and itâs done.
For straight runs I use a adjustable garden spray nozzle on the end of the hose. They both work great and clean all the soot out. Anyone who cleans cooling racks would benefit by using them.
Bob
Well i havent finished my new gasifier system yet so i lit my 2500 truck gasifier up with out running fan and got my restrictor sat on top of my hopper wood. Well here is my restrictor from my over sized wk gasifier,its 4&7\8" dia. and 5" tall the big plate go does on top.I see its been hot on top plate and runs better or heats up hotter at mild rpms, though its not as responsive at wide open throutle as with it out.And reduces more of the moister.
sorry about the camera its an elcheapo. donât buy a cheap phablet as the cameras are juuunk. Time too rince out my hay filter , it loaded up fast without the restrictor.
Finished my ceramic blanket gasifier this week. Spent two mounth 12 hour a day.including transmision rebuild and engine bearings replaced as motor had set in barn for20 years. Any way runs real good havent seen any tar yet . idle time over 25 minuts. Few things too change, other than that it works good. I ended up with a fixed grait split in the center due too noching the bottom out for the drive shaft extra clearence. no problem with fixed grait.Thanks for the building info from the book. have wood will travel and the extra wood gas enthuesiest. The wood really runs well in motors. No major problems with heated hopper. Hopper running 100 degrees hotter so far so good, though i may go back too WK heat exchanger when hopper heat jacket life cycle ends. I ran two seperate exits from gasifier too ease up on the heat per exit pipe.BBB.
I will hope too have some burn tube pics later after time tells the long lasting set up or not. Turn down ratial is good. Though once shut off it cools quite fast.about a half hour or so for hard too restart on petro with out relighting the core char.HWWT.
Hello Kevin .
Good to hear your progress . Keep us posted 
Thanks Wayne i am glad i bought your book (Have Wood Will Travel) and am able too learn wood gas motor fuel this well. I know i could not have found a better group of wood gas enthuisiest any ware, were all Glad too have found your site and vidios DOWing with wood.
Merry CHRISTMAS, Too DOW and THANKS FOR THE WOOD GAS DRIVEING ENJOYMENT.
Caint wait too pull my two cyclones and replace them with decent size WK HEAT RECYCLER EXCHANGERS. I went a little too light on this unit, because i dont have the traction i. Would like in the snowy weather
Once a good char bed is establish it should get a little better on the ratio of wood to miles.
Bob
MERRY CHRISTMAS BOB, I am serprized it got this good considering how much gasihual gasoline it burns.And i havent built my WK heat exchanger yet, i was weighing while building but, now seems i could have used the WK drop box heat exchangers, i will put two long skinnys on this one, half size of water heat range.I have two seperate fuel lines coming from the hopper too keep the char moveing, due too i strateled the drive shaft for more wood space.Working good. HAPPY HAPPY I AM. P.S I WAS COUNTING WARM UP AND COOL DOWN WOOD USE NOT ACTUAL DRIVEING MILES PER POUND. FOR ALL PRACTICLE PERPOSE ONE COULD HEAT THERE HOT WATER HEATER WHILE WARMING GASIFIER UP AND COOL DOWN TIME.
It is kinda funny how all the different vehicles with different gas mileage ranges seem to level out on wood gas 1 to 1.3 miles to a pound of wood with the V-8 and V-6 engines.
And yes when I figar miles per wood I fill the hopper just before I head down the road with the gasifier already warmed up.
Merry Christmas to you and your Family.
Bob
ALL THIS MILES PER POUND THINKING GOT ME THINKING, i could flare a little while up through a gas hot water heater tube if i hook it up too a roof vent chimmny from a small out building for the water heater in summertime.
Yup any heat that is going to become wasted heat and then converted to be used for something else to be heated is good use.
Around the lower unit of my gasifier there is heat radiating off the lower part barrow, and I keep thinking what could I use this heat for. Maybe a drying storage wood box or a gas heating mantle to the gas for final filtering then go to the engine. The more ways you can use the wasted heat the more efficient you can make the gasifier work to a point.
There is a balancing point in the hearth (Firetube/Grate) area of the gasifier to keep. The HEAT, not to much that it starts to melt things down and not To cold that it produces tar. To me this is one of the BIG parts of the 75% of gasification operation to keep your unit running for a long time.
Bob
I have plenty of loss heat from my cyclone gasifier, i plan on putting two WK heat exchangers in place of the cyclones too recover the waist heat, or could just put a tin box around the cyclones and add the heat too the air intake. Plus i need too insulate around my heated hopper too hold that heat from all excapeing and not being recycled. A heated funnel added would be about the all the heat recycle ideas added too a unit that one could utallize.And a deverter bypass valve too controll all the added hopper heat in summer time maybe.BBB,BB.I STILL NEED A HOPPER GAS COOLER OF SOME SORT FOR HUMMID WOOD AND WEATHER. HWWT. GOD BLESS.
Why do you think you need a hopper cooler?? Would it be possible to get a âwalk aboutâ. I read all 75 posting and decided you had a 4 cylinder in the truck. I thought at one time you had exchanged the 4 for a 6. You have many unique ideas built into this and you have shown us pieces but not a complete walk about. TomC
Hi tom its a v6 4.3 as my toy 4 cyl transmission went out and hard too get parts for,so i went too the v6 that i had extra trannys for. This is my heated hopper gasifier, i had too open the restrictor a bit, i notched my. Gasifier barrel around drive shaft and lowered the height 8" or little more from the bed of the truck. And the hopper gas cooler i would like too add later. Though as you say i dont seem too need it so far, though its winter time and the excess water just freezes in the lower tanks. So not a good test of water saturated gas performace yet.Hopeing it works good in hot summer, as thats probly when the hopper cooler helps the most. When i get time i will post some pics of my grate design and burn tube condition, though i need some dryer roads and hot summer too give a good hot test too the thin ss covering my ceramic blanket in the burn tube set up.I will have some pics of some componets later.This unit is just a test and trail gasifier from other than the dakota build, as it says its a test rig ceramic blanket gasifier with a heated hopper and since it is missing some easy clean out ports as max noticed, AND I DONT WANT TOO STEER ANY ONE FROM THE TRIED AND TESTED TAR FREE WK HWWT DESIGN.WHICH HAS MANY ADVANAGES FOR LONG LASTING AND COOL TOO THE TOUCH DESIGN, AND HAS NICE HEAT RECOVERY SYSTEM THAT HELPS KEEP THE EXTURNAL TEMPS LOWER AND RUN WELL ONCE WARMED UP HAS AN EXCELLENT TURN DOWN RATIO. IN FACT I WILL BE REPLACEING MY CYCLONEâs and useing the WK TYPE DROP BOX HEAT EXHANGER IN ORDER TO LOWER MY EXTURNAL TEMPS AND RAISE MY INTURNAL TEMPS FOR BETTER EFICENCY AND PERFORMACE OVERALL.SUMMER TIME WILL TELL ME MORE IF THE DESIGN IS ACTUAL TAR FREE UNIT DESIGN AND COOL ENOUGH TOO HAUL HAY.The walk around will have too wait tell i get things ironed out more like i want.OR A BETTER DESIGN. HOPPER HEATER IS CONSTRUCTED, HOPPER HEATER NEEDS TESTING IN HOT SUMMER, AND COULD HAVE BEEN FARTHER FROM THE HOPPER FOR EASYER TOO CLEAN. AND A HOPPER HEATER OF THIS TYPE DESIGN SHOULD HAVE EASY PROVISION FOR HIGH TEMP INSULATE TOO MINUMIZE HEAT LOSS.FOR MY NEXT DESIGN ADDED FEATURES IN MIND. THE BEST TEST OF VARIOUS DESIGNS IS ON THE BACK TIRES AND WOOD USE AT VARIOUS DRIVING USEâs Or speeds one drives, motor size and weight . GOD BLESS.
When i shut my truck off after driving on dino it tends too desiel about 3 too 5 seconds before stalling- i never had a sticky throttle plate yet on this unit, but ran one hopper of wood through the motor without hay filter thinking all the extra cyclones wood due the tric, but since it filled my air cleaner screen with smoky mix cake i put hay filters ware could fit them.I think it is my rich running carb, pulling wood cake silt from before i put hay filter on,intoo the motor at shut down and causing the desielâing? Maybe thats why port fuel injection is the better way too dino after extended WOOD GAS DRIVEING.
Kevin, try running the truck one day just on dino gas and then see if it has the same problem when shutting it down. It helps to Just clean it out with gasoline driving.
Bob
Good evening Bob Mac it only does it while on dino because when i ran the motor with out hay filter a couple barrels of wood the soot is in the intake, so while driveing on dino it pulls the extra silt soot in the motor at all times, but then when trying too shut down it trys too keep running a few seconds, so i gess i got some extra soot in the intake while running with out a media filter, i probly need too get a better working carb, and clean my intake out soon.I think i need more hay filter serface area allso soon.