Kevin, could it be a timing issue? Retarding the timing to much would cause symptomes like that.
Good morning Kevin .
My guess would be the idle is set too high .
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Check out what JO, and Wayne have said to make sure that not the problem.
Bob
I am with Wayne, high idle for sure. If you have a quadrtajet be sure to check the secondary butterflies for a little soot preventing them from closing completely. It don’t take much of an opening with a diameter little they have. Just a little soot is all it would take.
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Back in the 60’s that was a problem with many cars, so they put a solenoid that would pull the throttle open just enough to idle when the ignition was on, but allowed the throttle to close all the way when the ignition was turned off.TomC
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Thanks Wayne on the idle check first posible. That has been a problem since i reset the timeing,my wood gas idle udjuster ran out of addjustment, time too reman that idle mech.And i will check the timeing with a light this time for Jo. P.S. IF I HAVE TOO DO AN INTAKE REMOVEL A FEW HOURS IS THERE ANY WAY TOO CLEAN THE VALVE Stems from tar if any was there with out pulling the heads and valves.??
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Tom i know you said you allso tared a motor, is there a way too clean tar from valve stems or valves still in the head , or how does one clean tar from the valves with out removeing the heads ,Thanks.
Kevin I’ve mentioned before that my memory is going. What I do remember is one time I took the intake manifold off and valve covers. This is the valley cover from one tear down. This must have been the second time because in the one picture I see the bent and broken push rods. I had to fish the broken one out with a magnet for some reason.
Probably the only thing I could do with the sticking valves is us a brass rod to tap on the valve stem while spraying WD on them and work them loose. I have had to do that with motors that set for a long time and the valves stuck. Final thought is put clean oil and filter in after running the engine to warm up and I always put in a quart of Rislone. I do that to all my vehicles. TomC
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Kevin I think you can get by just pulling the valve covers and tap on any stuck open valves gently even right on the rockers. Maybe try some peniatrating oil on the valve stems.
For cleaning the intake try removing the carb, get the fuel line away from the top of the engine, I would clamp a hose on it and plug it with a bolt to stop fuel and fuems from escaping. While valve covers are still off remove spark plugs one at a time starting with the intake valve that is open. Stick your touch in the spark plugs hole and try to burn the soot one cylinder at a time rolling the engine by hand till another intake valve is fully open until you have done them all.
You should be able to go several thousand miles between cleanings if I am not mistaking.
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Thanks jim i remeber wayne said somthing about putting air too the cyclinders one at a time with plugs out, see what way works best Thanks.
Thanks Tom my memery only works in the long term range, my short term tics me off at times just finding a tool in garode 5 minuts ago, AnyWAY you must have had spider injection on that year chevy, In other words the likely spots too clean are most likely the intake valves under the intake manifold.I think i will try tapping and burning too see if i can fix in that way for road repair experiance knowlege.
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Hello Kevin .
To burn the carbon out of the intake on the carb type motor you will need to remover the carb and spark plugs . I think it is best to clean one passage at a time ( turn the motor by hand until the intake valve opens ) and not let the manifold get too hot. You can use some water on the outer part of the intake to tell when it is boiling and getting too hot.
Compressed air and nozzle will get you started on the top side of the intake . Also I used the connection hose from a compression tester to put air into each cylinder.
Once you burn most of the carbon out you can come back and add a little oxygen with your cutting torch . Be carfull !! the oxygen on burning carbon is like a small explsion.!!
When I cleaned the carbon from my 460 ford it took just about all day . When I clean it out of the trucks I have now it only a couple of min.
I’m glad you brought this subject up . It has been a few weeks that I have clean my intakes . Better to do it here on the farm vs happening down town 
PS Keep in mind there is a lot of deference in a motor building up carbon vs a motor getting tared up .
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Really then it would be nice too find more vehicles that clean as easy as the dodge dakota v8 92 too 96. Is there a better way too clean the intake of the heads, once the intake was removed. And maybe soak the intake in bleach over night.?
The above question was too wayne k.THANKS
Hello Kevin.
The bleach works pretty good for removing tar and soot but fire is the only thing I have used to get rid of baked on carbon .
Thanks Wayne K i can see why you settled for a good old dodge dakota v8 92 through 96. For a wood gas vehicle. PS i got too go look in the book on the dakota carbon clean up sequence.
Hi Bob i am wondering just for reference how many pounds of charco too = 1 gallon gasoline.I know wood is 16 too 20 pounds.:Thanks.
I Don’t know the answer to that question. @k_vanlooken, @KristijanL, @bsoutherland, or @don_mannes on that question.
Bob
Acording too Till from MB 230 project that 1 liter of gas = 1.5 kg char with out water drip or exoust cooling. After calculating from that, it would take about 12.5 pounds charco too make gallon dino Equivilent. Volume depending on wood type char, my junk white pine char seems about 5 or 6 pounds per 5 gallon. So 25 gallons would be around 25 or 30 pounds.And about = too 2 gallon dino. That would take a honda accord probly 70 miles.
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I do complete retraction because of my misinterpretion.