Check the wiring. I may have changed it trying other inputs as I was having that issue with the noise on that push button. So what ever code you run you must douple check the wiring and make sure it matches the pins in the code.
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Note in this last code, Pin D2 is new. This outputs back to a LED or the switch has that built in you can wire this to that LED. When you press the manual mode this LED will stay off. it does not come on until after the safe window is breached. Once it has Pin D2 will supply 5 volts and the LED will be lit indicating the controls have switched into auomode. When you press again it should turn off and that tells you the code is now in manual mode.
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Okay that makes sense. Guess Itāll have to wait until I get those in the mail. The 3rd newest code does work at least on the bench. Manual mode works great but the old automode is odd, it hunts a lot. Maybe itās because Iām just twiddling a potentiometer and it isnāt a stable reading from an O2 sensor.
Also, the motor rotates opposite of what the Manual knob tells. I rotated counterclockwise and the motor rotates all the way clockwise 180*. The O2 pot does the opposite of what the Manual pot does. Iām assuming this is normal.
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Flip the battery leads on the pot.
Not sure why its hunting. It will be unlikely you will be able to match the safe window with the pot unless you really fiddle with it to find where that it is. Turn it full one way and the servo should follow it until it stops moving. Then go the other way and it should follow it the other way intil it stops. You maybe hitting the limits its not hunting its bouncing off the limits of the code.
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You can swipe an led from an old piece of electronics, however, you might not have a stash of them just lying around like umm some people who are adverse to throwing stuff in the trash if it can be recycled, In part because of the garbage charges, and in part because it might be useful to not have to wait for shipping. 
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which throttle body do you have? you said 2000s civic but it looks like they switched around 2001 in the civics. I do recall honda using something cheaper for the TB motor, but I donāt recall what it was or even when they made the switch.
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This is how they were listed on ebay
06-11 Honda Civic 1.8L Throttle Body OEM Assembly GMA4A 213-14B4
Locally they wanted $35 a peice, used.
I found them on ebay for $4.99 plus combind shipping for four.
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okay, this looks like it is a reference from a manual.
pin 1: TPSA - the sensor that measures the voltage going through throttle position sensor A
pint 2: VCC3 - the reference voltage
pin 3: TPSB - the sensor that measures the voltage going through throttle position sensor B
pin 4: SG - the ground pin
pin 5 and 6: ETCSM (+/-) -
where the TPS is a potentiometer, and two people said they read the same, one person said the read opposite like from 0v-5v and 5v-0v
ETCSM is the electronic throttle control system, which moves the motorā¦ It very well could just be a dc motor. This is a video that pulls apart the throttle body, and it looks similar to yours, and the single row 6 pin connector is the same. My guess is if you pulled the sensors off and the motor only has two leads it is a dc motor, which then needs the h-bridge. While the guy is testing with 12v, and it will probably work. I am not convinced they arenāt using a 5v motor, but they might be using 12v. There is a skunk2 carb replacement for civics that using a 6 pin plug but it is 2 rows of pins and they claim to be using a servo motor.
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It looks like the GM ls2ās throttle body has a dc motor that is 5v. So now I am wondering if there is some misunderstanding as the dc motor is working as a servo, whether most āservosā are actually dc motors. I mean most car people arenāt nearly that familiar with electronics. but that also puts the search into the 1990s.
EDIT:
This is a video with source code controlling a dc motor with position control. I did not look at the source code yet. BUT I donāt want to lose the link.
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Yep, that pinout diagram above looks familiar from my research as well. Thanks for postingā¦ all my build notes and scribbles for this part of the project are illuding me at the moment. Hope i didnt loose that notebook.
The TB i used were deffinatly 12 volt motors. I tried driving them with less than 12 and they couldnt overcome the spring.
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Why dont you guys just adapt a servo to opperate these valves. It would be a TON easier. You can buy high quality servoās that can break stuff. Look at the 1/'5 scale steering servos for RC.
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Yeah, your probably right. Just print a 2 inch valve stick a servo on it and call it a day.
I put mine together over a year ago, and at the time my though process was something cheap(i have just over $10 after tax and shipping into each TB) and something durable that already exists that i could re-purpose.
Looking back on it now, i can see things like how woodgas my deteriate the aluminum in the TBs over time, a printed 2 inch valve would be a lot lighter, and easier to wire up(meaning less hardware because of using servos.)
Dont get me wrong though, Im very pleased with how mine operate. Incorporating your mixer code into my setup will be very simple. Just a matter of swapping out my narrow band O2 sensor with a wide band.
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Those and similar lines of reasoning can lead to an excess of stuff stored without full organization, in large quantities.
Not guessing 
edit: Not complaining either. I like the stuff
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No what I mean is strip off the motors from the TBās and mount a servo to them. Use a shaft coupler. Yeah you are trying to land a missle on the moon without spending any money. That aint going to happen if it were that easy I would have done this in the first place. Believe me Ive looked at all this, studied it and came to conclusion my time is better spent making money and buying the components to make it work. Rather then spending a life of beating my head against the wall and ending up having something that work all that well. My time is worth way more than that, as you get older you realize your time is not free.
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Some very well could be 12v. I think that last video i postedās code should more or less work after the webserver is removed and possibly braking added. And it looks like the position sensor is on the butterfly and not on the motor. But that probably isnt an issue because you dont care about the actual motor turns, just the butterfly position.
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Iāve seen a few printable shaft couplers that go directly on the 25t output on the servo you suggested in the tutorial. Using a tough filament and some JB weld or some other strong epoxy it would work well.
Edit:
Hereās two Things that are attached to one of the included arms of the servos and attach themselves to ball valve wings. It shows them for small valves but you could also use this for homemade dampers or adapted from throttle bodies with the spring removed.
This second link I think is the better option because it has a relief for the screw that holds down the servo arm. If you used some form of compression to hold the servo and valve together youād be golden and not need any glue or permanent fixture. It also has a beefier connector as an option. All youād have to do is print that up and measure how big of a wing youāll need on the valve.
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I dont mean to interupt you guys parts selection mission for arduino controls, my questain is probbly stuppid- but is all this arduino control stuff, mostly adjusting the air control on the intake air cleaner flipper valves,through the 02 sensor. I am probley more than a little off. out in left feild.
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As they say, No such thing as a dumb question.
You hit the nail on the head. Using a microcontroller to fine tune the air mixture, Using a wide band O2 sensor as the input. Trying to optimize the mix.
That way when conditions change, like different rpm, quality of gas, etcā¦ an auto mixer will constantly search for the optimal mix.
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THANKS for reply,sounds like its worth leaning to use when i get more time i might even try to learn this setup and codes,a bit later.INTERESTING to fiddle with and improve.
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I can deffinately see the value in it!
Matt has it laid out really well. Cody would be the one to comment as he is in the process of building a mixer for his truck currently.
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