Not really. I’ve been messing with the new hayfilter to make things seal and fit in the trunk. Also, I need to weld a new condensation tank to fit in the compartment behind the wheel well. Lots of distractions though - when you’re right in the middle of old parents, grandchildren and work. I’ll be lighting the truck gasifier up in hour, for another evening shift.
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No, no water in the insulation, but I only had 5cm, I’ve tried to get a little more in there now, but I wonder if it didn’t get worse, way too tight.
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Good, but almost too bad it wasn’t wet. It would have been nice with that level of simple fix 
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Hmm, had a bad sleep last night, thought about the heat in my filter.
Eldest boy said that heat will decrease as the pipe (filter) gets bigger, which I knew, but not how much.
I read “The ideal gas law” then I begin to understand how much it does with pressure and volume (I think) the area of the filter is over 20 times larger than the pipe into the filter, so there will be both a decrease in pressure and an increase in volume, both reduce the heat a lot, and then the speed wind.
If I understand this correctly, it is the opposite of having a reducer in the unit, it will increase the heat very much, if you can keep oxygen down to the reducer, if someone is smarter than me, it should be possible to calculate approximately what heat increase there will be, likewise what expansion on the surface there should be during the reduction, so that the gas does not become too cold before it has left the fire tube.
8.2: Relating Pressure, Volume, Amount, and Temperature: The Ideal Gas Law | General College Chemistry I =en&_x_tr_pto=rq
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Jan, I will give an example:
We have a 5/4" inlet pipe (or any other dimension), which is installed in the filter housing, on the other side there is an outlet pipe, we measure the pressure on the pipe where the gas enters and measure the pressure of 1 Bar (absolute pressure) and measure the pressure on the outlet pipe, where we measure 0.9 Bar. We see that the resistance on the filter is 0.1 Bar. We are interested in how much the gas temperature decreases and how much the volume increases.
First, we calculate the change in volume, which increases by approx. 10%, then we calculate the change in temperature, if we take the example that the inlet temperature is 50°C, it is 38°C at the outlet. Note that the filter housing is insulated.
Does this help you?
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Thanks for your help.
No, I don’t understand, but hope you help me understand.
When I read the pressure table it says:
100c = 423 K = 88kpa
50c = 373K =77.5kpa
Won’t there be a 50 degree difference in 10 kpa (0.1bar)?
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Jan, I rounded the results for the previous calculation too much, well, this calculation is more accurate
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Thanks Tone, you are incredible, wish I had your skills.
I just looked at it statically.
Is there any possibility to calculate how much higher the heat will be in the constriction in the unit?
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Jan and Tone, I had to scroll back into the exchange to remember the purpose for the calculations.
Jan, your hot filter gets wet and the soot sticks, right?
I wonder - if the temp drops due to the pressure difference, doesn’t the dew point as well? It should even out, shouldn’t it? I could be wrong.
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I think you’re right JO, but don’t know if it gets wet, have no problem blowing or brushing the soot off, but it’s so fine soot so I think that’s why the resistance increases. Tried today to move the thermometer from the outlet pipe to the space above the filter. and then the temperature rose a little, 65-70 degrees c after about 15 km.
Now I had a small puff before I went so there was probably no resistance in the gen gas unit so the output temperature was below 200c.
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Thank you Jan, your English is good. No problem understand you. Thank you for the wonderful ride with you out in the trees and back roads were you live. It is like the forest were I live up in the hills where I live.
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Thanks Bob, nice to hear from you.
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Jan, it is impossible to calculate the change in temperature through the hot zone with glowing charcoal, because the oxidation of the charcoal and the reduction of pyrolysis gases take place here, the temperatures are therefore very high and the influence of the change in pressure on the temperature is practically negligible.
JO, the gas law theory is based on the fact that the energy of the gas entering the filter is equal to the gas leaving it. When we compress air (gas), it heats up as a result, but the reverse is also true. Will the moisture in the gas condense at lower temperature and lower pressure? No, condensation will not occur due to a change in pressure, condensation requires energy withdrawal. You probably have a case when you tried to start a cold engine on moist wood gas, but it was not successful, even though the gas was burning nicely outside. This is the case when you “slowly” compress moist gas and the moisture condenses on the cold walls of the engine and also on the spark plug.
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…which means we agree, Tone.
That was my point - any negative pressure lowering the temp will be compensated by a lower dew point. Condensation in Jan’s filter can only be avoided by him keeping the heat in best he can.
Same conclusion - just different wording 
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Help, first the fuel pump stopped. took it out and took it into the garage, turned on the voltage and it started.
Happy for that, I turned on the ignition of the car and the brake light comes on, if I press the pedal the brake light goes off, if I just turn the light on, I have no brake light at all, where should I start looking?
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Hard to help with diagnosis through the net, but i know the ignition switch on s10 could make some fun phenomenon when it goes bad.
The in-tank fuel pump also has limited life time, the copper “tracks” the brushes run on gets worn.
When i had an s10, i drove about a month with every start i had to hit the tank with a sledge hammer, just in the few seconds the pump should prime when turning the ignition on.
(Wife was not very found of this procedure when she borrowed it)
Altought the brake light phenomenon is hard to track down, cant remember if these are “Euro-converted”? as original the brake and turn signal is the same light, i’ve seen pretty sloppy conversions both from big importers companies, and worst on private imported cars.
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WOW those wires got hot or chewed up by mice! I believe those wires are a pigtail, should be another connector end and you could replace it all in one go.
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That may be a “Euro conversion” like i talked about, to separate the turn signals from the brake lights, wents into steering column.
Looked something like this on my s10.
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