Hmm, read the wiring diagram in Haynes and suddenly realized what the fault is, can you guess what it was, a clue is that the ignition switch is worn, quite annoying.
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You who have been doing this for a while, will the cooling pipes be much warmer if the wood is not really dry?
I can confirm this yes.
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Thank you Kristijan, I am worried that I have a leak, and burn up the gas, before 1 pipe used to get hot now all 4 pipes on both sides get hot, but the car runs pretty much the same as before.
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What Kristijan said.
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Ok, does it get warmer with larger pieces of wood as well?
How’s the shoulder, Wayne?
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Good morning Jan .
Yes , Seems larger wood ( less surface area ) will let heat
and oxygen go further through the system.
Thanks for asking . Shoulder still sore , having to work about half fast .
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Jan, you’re touching the very core of gasification here.
With really dry, small chunks I can see 150 C leaving the cyclone vs 300C with larger, damp fuel - running the same speed.
Add some char on top of the wood and the avarage moisture content and fuel size will fall. You will notice a remarkable difference in only 10 min of driving.
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It was not so good, in the middle of the hay harvest, you usually need both arms healthy.
I mounted a thermometer after the cyclone, it goes to 300c, and is at the bottom almost all the time, believing in a leak
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This is the inlet pipe to the cyclone, can this leak be enough to ignite the gas and cause the heat?
Or should I look for more during the isolation?
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My guess it should be more than a pinhole to create enough heat to do any harm.
Hmm, I who was so happy when I found this, thought it would be like a welding flame.
Wow, what a lot of klinker I had in the fire pipe, there was only half the space left.
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Haha sorry, it was not my intention to put a damper on your joy. But to tell you the truth I’ve had rubber cracks right downstream the cyclone, at least the size of one of the nozzles, before noticing any ill effects.
Interesting pic btw. The carbon burning swirl around the nozzle-stems is obvious.
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I have driven the same distance and speed as in the last test, now the temperature is a maximum of 215 degrees c, at about 55mph, mostly around 180 degrees c.
Is it because I got it tight or because I cleaned?
I have the same charcoal and the same wood, except for a small stock of larger charcoal on the grate.
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Good Morning JanA
Your ability to now cruise at 90 km/h shows much. That is ~66% the ability of your vehicle in its prime on gasoline.
I think your higher cooling rails temperature when with the wetter wood was steam heat transfer.
This should have been evidenced by greater condensate collection.
Others I’ve known distinguished hot wet steamed gas, from burnt gas by the unlit gas color.
Ben Peterson maintained that good gas was clearer. Wet gas still clear but would Fog . . .on the downstream open air flow.
Burnt gas was whitish right from the outlet.
Again all of these unlit appearances.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Excuse my English, I went in 55mph at the last test as well, I mostly go in 50- 55mph, it goes a little faster, but sees no reason to drive faster.
Since I have the same wood and charcoal as I had when it went so hot, it should not be what makes the car run colder and better, could it have something to do with the charcoal that I have put back being denser than usual?
I had never seen that drawing of Mike’s “vacuum gauge”. That is ingenuity to the max.
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I hope you enjoy my attempt to speak English.
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Hi Jan, I could understand you just fine. I have been speaking English my whole life and I still have not mastered it. Lol
Thank you for the walkaround of your vehicle and video.
Have you ever tired just using long hay/grass in your filter?
Nice truck what year is It?
Bob
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Yes, I had hay before, but had problems with it freezing on top of the bucket, so it became tight.
I think that the leca balls clean quite well, and with the foam filter there is usually nothing in the intake pipe.
The car is a 1995, so it is not possible to change the ignition in any easy way.
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