Does it have a rotor cap with the spark plug wire coming out of it? Or just power coils with spark plug wires. does it have spark knock detection on it? It sould be a OBD1 system.
Bob
I have a distributor cover but nothing happens to the ignition when I move it, I have tested with the obd 2 meter (have broken the latch that held the cover) I think it has a knock sensor, and it is obd 2 system (some say obd1.5) but is an obd 2 contact.
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Good video Jan. I like it.
Are hopper lid and lid raiser brand new? They look very clean inside. No tar.
Also, it seems you solved our problem of where to keep our spare tires - inside the filter barrel 
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Thanks for the nice walkaround.
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No, I have had the lid all the time, there has never been much tar on it.
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Thanks for the video Jan .
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Hi JanA,
Thank you for the video walk-around.
Your spoken English came up very well as English text in CC.
A true measure.
Unfortunately how each manufacturer choose to make their sensors and software work is up to them.
Later overhead cam long chain driven Fords and Dodges will not respond either to moving the cam position sensor. In fact the later OHC V-engine Dodges will code set and depower the engine to limp-in if they see too much cam change above a small percentage versus the crank position. Assuming the chain has stretched; or a chain guide broken creating slack.
OBDII’s are very variable in what will happen. What you can sensors manipulate.
The fact you are able to drive as well as you do says that your system IS timing changing and basing on knock sensors feedback. Like WayneK’s Dodge V-10.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Jan, Thanks for the walk-a-round.
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@JO_Olsson , I was out driving in small roads last night, after about 30km it was a big hill, about the same slope as the largest between Falun and Borlänge, but twice as long.
Up this hill the car goes for about 60kmh and gives a temp over 300c after the cyclone, is your car something similar?
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Jan, I usually hybrid in that situation. I think that hill would keep my truck down close to 80 km/h even on 100% gasoline. But yes, on a good day I could probably just barely manage to keep 60 km/h on 100% woodgas. That would mean full throttle, 3d gear and 3000rpm
I try to avoid exceeding 300C outof the cyclone. Not only because of the gasifier itself, but I have rubber connections close to that temp guage and they are starting too look a little tired after 3 years of abuse
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Ok, thank you Jo, so it’s pretty normal then, one more wonder, mine experience it at my car becomes very insensitive to more or less air when it gets hot, nor do I think it will go better when I have less wood left . Do your cars not run better when you have less wood left?
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I haven’t noticed any power difference full hopper or close to empty, but there’s definately more power when the gasifier is properly warmed up and also less picky on airmix.
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Are there any of you who know about these exhaust pipes are completely sealed?
Thought to have it between the gasifire and the cyclone.
Felt on the insulation today when I came to Hörken, it was cold on the back and very hot on the front, and the coolers very hot.
I think those braided flex hose use an accordion shaped tubing under the woven steel. Steel just keeps stress off of the tubing underneath. Not sure how air tight they are though.
Yes CodyT is correct.
Underneath the braided outer layer is an accordion pleated formed solid SS pipe section.
Until it cracks it is completely gas tight.
Steve Unruh
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Thanks, Cody and Steve, I’ll test it with water for a few days, before I do anything. I suspect I get a break between the cyclone and the gasifier.
The cyclone hangs more or less in the pipe from the gasifier.
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I would say to take advantage of the flange if you can. Removable means serviceable.
Can always cut your own gaskets if need be.
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Hmm, I did as you said JO and sealed the nozzle and poured water into the air intake, it became a water in the ashtray, will have to cut apart the carburetor. Or can i put someting in it?
Hi JanA,
I was under the 2007 Hyundai doing an oil change. It has two sections of that braided SS flex piping.
The outer braiding is for drop down safety retention. For when the inner gastight pleated formed flex pipe cracks all of the way around and separate.
S.U.
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Bad news on your airleak. Good news you found it. Time for some cutting and welding then.
Remember to take pics. It would be interesting to see what kind of damage the torch effect did.
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