I dubt. Also tar glued to it will probably tear it apart.
Agree. I have found that what works for me is make the lid as small as possible, less surcace on the seal, less places for leaks and better pressure. Second, l always grease the seals so tar doesent stick on.
I used exactly the same at my old Volvo, it hold up surprisingly well, but as said, tar glued it, and if not opening carefully and loosening the rubber with a wooden stick, it teared up.
Think I had to change it every 3 months.
I use high temp red lithium grease on the threads of my charcoal gasifier and it held up. I greased them so I could remove for design changes and to seal up the threads.
Jan,
I test sample materials (scraps I find) with a small, hot (700 F), or partially hot electronics soldering iron, it gives me an idea how they will react at high temperatures. That is not an exhaustive test, but has disqualified some materials quickly. Others held up surprisingly well!
No grease, but I should have tried it if i thought of it.
Seems the lidâs never reach higher temps temps than around 100°c , there are always condensate and soft tar, seems to indicate this. Even burning down to low, it seems to hold up well.
Ofcourse others may have experienced other?
I had biltemas silicone, but it seems like the fumes from inside are crawling under the silicone, so it releases.
It is equal to the stove seal I have now, the glue releases after a while.
I think the trick is making the groove look like this.
I used stove rope, but I think any soft rope will do.
First silicone in the bottom of the groove to glue the rope in place and then silicone on top to make a mating surface. When the silicone cures the rope+silicone will have a large enough diameter not to be able to escape the groove.
I often forget about grease and have to crowbar the lid open with the poker, but Iâve never had the seal let go of the groove. The seal may leak just a little when tar is cold and stiff, but seals 100% when warmed up.
What I did just recently was take the stove rope and massage the red RTV silicone in a bag like Bobmac has shown. After I got the silicone impregnated to the rope I glued it to the lid and used plastic wrap on the barrel lip and clamped the lid down. Plastic wrap so it doesnât stick to the barrel as it cures. It made a cupped shape from the rim so I think this improves the seal.
I have received a tar plug which prevented the water that is condensed out from the hopper from coming down to its container, which made the gas more humid, the will made the cyclone tight down against the ash hatch, which meant that I got soot in the cooling pipes.
Now the question, I have never cleaned the pipes from the filter to the engine, how often do you do that? Iâve only driven about 2 years, hmm.
Yes, our hopper type drain doesnât stay warm enough during winter and thereâs buildup over time. If it plugs, I heat the drain pipe with the torch and melt the tar plug - right after shutdown when the hopper is still warm.
I do it once every summer. I just park in a slope, plug the rear end and fill the pipe from under the hood - remove the plug and let it flush.