What do you think. is the filter tight enough to test on the car?
This hopper I wonder if it has too small a diameter to be able to condense out the moisture in the wood, is it any idea to continue with it, or is it just as good to make one that I know works, water in the gas is not good for fiberglass filter.
Jan, you made 2 hot filters? One for S10 and one for the tractor?
I have no experience with hot filters but I guess gas temp would determin wether you will notice filter moisture clogging or not. The flame does look a bit steamy though.
Yes, one for the S10 and one for the tractor or iller, or suzukin. What do you think about the condensation, do I have too small a diameter for it to condense well?
Jan, Joni used a venturi to eject his water from the hopper. You could make a muffler tip with the venturi welded and just clamp it to your tailpipe. That will help with moisture.
Too narrow hopper? I donât know, Jan. I guess with more surface area you would probably collect more juice, but itâs up to you if you consider it worth the effort. You could always connect external tubes from top to bottom on the existing one (Iâm pretty sure such a visible detail is no secret). Or mount a deviding inner wall to separate warm and cold flows - if you can afford the lost fuel capacity.
If you already have a suitable vessel for a wider hopper that might be the easiest solution.
Yes, Iâm thinking of squeezing an oil barrel, then I would come out of the heat flow from the hearth, a fiberglass cloth did not work on a regular imbert.
I think an ejector is not enough, and it also takes gas.
Hi Jan, i havenât had the time watching your video yet, but some tips about hot filters, many belive they be âdestroyedâ from moisture, not true, they get clogged and very hard for engine to pull gas through them, but once they reach high enough temperature (100°c or more) they dries up and starts to let soot-cakes fell of.
Ofcourse the gas should be as dry as possible, but if the gas temps is high enough, insulated filter barrel and maybe parts of gasifier, piping from gasifier to filter (short and insulated) it often works pretty well.
Seems when short âburstsâ of very wet gas hits the filter (slowing down, idling, for example) condenses only on smaller parts of filter surface wich cloggs, the then drier gas takes an other route.
Hard to explain, this is just some theories, based on what i experienced using cloth/hot-filters, i was very uncertain and nervous when i first used this types of filters, checking temperatures, always check the filter cloth, checking vacuum, after a year or so i almost forgot the filter, it seemed to take care of itself, only to empty the soot-box every other week.
Something iâve experienced when i know the gas should be very wet, fast raising vacuum readings after filter, wich suddenly disapeared, often when hitting a bump in the road, probably the soot-cake becomes heavier when moist, wich makes it fall of.
Now dont only advocates the fabric-filters, they absolutely have their disadvantages, and i think everyone should use what they feel satisfied with, im only saying fabric filters is one way to go, and it dont need to be expencive or prone to failure or clog easily.
Thank you Göran.
I am most worried that the filter for the S10 is not tight in the lid, so it draws in air there.
I have a kind of monetator on the S10, so I get quite a lot of water out of it, so I start to doubt the new unit, when I see how much water is in the gas, but have not tried it for a long time yet.
Help me understand what is happening, almost no moisture in the gas after the aggregate but a lot after the filter, why?
Gengas ut frÄn aggregat - YouTube Gengas efter glasfiber filter - YouTube
Jan, my opinion is that the gas and water vapor directly at the exit from the gasifier have a high temperature, so the water mist is not visible, but everything cools down in the filter and the mist appears.
Ok, thanks Tone. Then itâs probably as I think, this hopper does not work, it becomes like an Imbert.
Hi JanA,
Your video clip shows you stationary gasifying with no forced air cooling fan.
If you want to generate condensate in a double walled gasifier hopper you will have to fan force cooling air past the hopper outer wall.
The same for a cyclone or immediately out of the gasifier hearth settlement chamber. You want cooling there your must force air past it.
The cooling tubes assembly especially. Must have forced air flow. Refer to Tones tractor with the cooler in front of the tractor engines coolant radiator having the engine driven fan.
What you intentionally forced air cool will have the greatest condensate dropping out.
Vehicles driving this takes place by travel air flow.
Stationary or slow speed like tractors, forestry equipment will need forced air cooling fans.
Listen to the mini-heat pumps I see pictured so popular there now. Heat transferring forced air fans.
Listen to your Wifes car now in warm weather AC mode. Electric high speed forced air condensing fan.
Regards
Staeve unruh
I have single wall, double walls would destroy the condensation completely.
But I think the diameter is too small on this hopper, can of course be because I push the air as well.
On the S10, almost no water is visible, even when i starting the unit.
Jan, you could add tubes like Wayne and others do to add surface area to the hopper. It gives a segregated area for the moisture to go by itself and cool down.
JanA, it becomes a thermal/mechanical balancing job.
Observe a candle flame plume. The heated rising plume wide at the base, flowing upward narrowing down.
Make a single walled hopper larger in diameter than the nozzle ring area almost always results in a rising heats diminished cooled off tars sticking area. Tall and narrow will do the same thing too.
Wayne Kieths and Ben Petersons Book systems share a common solution done in two different ways.
They intentionally have a hot wood converting pyrolysis/torrefying/charring area just above the nozzle areas in best rising heat. This is not cooled. Isolated/Insulated/even externally heated. Above that a wood drying area; cooled, with condensate capture, collection and removal area.
Tall, Imberts and other Talls work well only with very good pre-dried wood. Even then the engine draw loading must be strong enough for the internal heat to vaporized and pass thru all hopper moistures.
Regards
Steve unruh
Steve, it is as you say, stationary operation requires forced cooling of the surfaces for condensation, otherwise they sink too hot for this process, much less water is secreted, and interestingly quite a bit of liquid tar, at least thatâs the case with my tractor, even slow driving changes the situation a lot , the excretion of water increases greatly. Yes Steve, I too was already thinking about installing a fan that would push the air down and cool the gasifier cover.
Yes, itâs the cooling that Iâm looking for, just like Cody says with the pipes on the outside, they are not in ascending heat, if I have a larger diameter it works the same way I think, but with a larger cooling surface
The reason why I suggest adding tubes is so you donât have to make a new hopper, just modify the existing one. If this is still going to be on the tractor you donât want it to be bulbous and obscure your vision.
Thank you Cody, you are so right, it will be difficult to fit a completely round.
