This is what the gas looks like when starting up the S10, after the radiator, much less water.
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Thanks for the ride Jan. Always a nice feeling when the gasifier delivers good power instead of heat. Have you made any changes, or is it just charbed quality related?
Wish you luck with the hay. I hope the showers weâre seeing missed your place and only hit the potato field.
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Thanks for the ride with you Jan. The sound of the engine is making good power as it recieves good gases going down the road. The temps. are provening it in the gasifier. And what JO said.
Bob
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Hmm, I tested with a larger diameter today, I think I have to give up with the diameter, there was no major difference in the gas from the fiberglass filter.
Quite a lot of water even now, and the washing machine drum was not tight either, just more problems.
What is it that makes me get drier gas at the start of the S10, anyone who understands?
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Jan, can you post a skech with measurments of your current gasifiers hearth measurments and fuel size?
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Jan, it all seems ok. Have you put hazelnut size charcoal in the gasifier over the nozzles when you first lit it? Its important to put in an exess as it settles down when first fired up and can lead to incomplete reaction.
Second, for a gasifier this size, your blower might be on the small side, not heating the gasifier enaugh.
But since you seem to have this problem often, it might be the fuel. Not sure how since you got a condensating hopper but it can be the case. In this case the only cure l can think of is mixing in 10% by volume of charcoal.
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I have charcoal up over the nozzles.
I have only run the new unit, at home on the farm, (3 times) wondering if I still have moisture left in the ashtray.
The wood is the same as I have in the S10, so there is no difference.
The gas goes through the cooling pipes on the S10 before I see it, so they may also take out water.
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Hi Jan, what sort of charcoal do you use for filling?
Iâve used barbecue charcoal (store bought) sometimes, it dont work so well, i dont know why thought, it seems to take much longer time to get good gas, much longer time before tar and moisture goes away, works better if you crush it small, not bigger than 12Ă12Ă12mm, and not to much dust.
I believe barbecue type charcoal (grillkol) is more prone for the gas âchannelingâ through the charbed.
Edit: and in Imbert types it helps to fill well over nozzles, maybe 6inch or more.
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Thatâs the answer, I think. Most of the steam will get condensed in the S10 cooler.
With no cooler the gas will hold its moisture. Hitting cool air it turns to visible water vapour.
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I have the charcoal that I took from the S10, the size probably fits well with what you say Göran.
Maybe itâs like you say YES, thought the large container for the fiberglass filter would cool and condense the gas. Do you think I can get the washing machine drum tight with silicone, or is it just as good to make a new one?
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Jan, I agree with JO, the gases have no cooling tubes to go through to condense the moisture out the gases. This means it is going through your filter and then you see it in the flaring.
Imberts Gasifiers need a flow of air coming in to heat up the gasifier to running temp.
I would also do what Kristijan said, mix in 10% charcoal to your hopper wood mix and test it again.
If the hopper leaks are small it should be okay. Larger leaks will reduce air going in through the nozzles to be effective flow from the nozzles into the firetube area.
That is a big filter box. I like it. Did you show a drawing of how it was builded?
Bob
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Bob I believe Jan is using a Vesa M style filter, multi faceted.
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I do not know if you have seen this filter yet, I have not dared to try it on the S10 yet, in case it would leak air, but it looks pretty tight.
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What JO says makes sense, flaring after the cooler shows much less moisture.
And for hot filters, gas should always be flared before the filter, to not draw start-up moisture through it. When engine have pulled the gasifier up to temp, through the filter, it is ok to flare after the filter, most start-up blowers areânt efficient enough to keep the gas hot enough to not wet the filter. (small amounts of moisture doesnât hurt the filter) or what i mean, testing a hot-filter is best to do with the engine. 
Edit: by the way, your filter looks great!
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Hello JanA,
On your dimensional sketch . . .
I think you are re-steaming much of the collected condensate.
Hard learned lessons have taught me the heat rizing from the nozzles area has to be 100mm separated from the condensate collection.
Working with what you already have assembled try filling with furnace cement up against the upward protruding marked 260 mm wall sloping outward onto the lower drum floor.
This will heat-break from the nozzles area; and may even tight seal your joint there.
Yes. You will have to remove your inner hopper cone to do this.
Iâll bet this helps.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi JanA, I was looking at your hopper after what Steve U. Had said. I also noticed the tar water metal and hose coming out of your hopper. There is no shut off valve. Question: Is the metal nozzle going it the old boat gas tank sealed air tight? If not then the air can enter in from that spot into the water/tar hose and into the hopper then down the firetube. This will by-pass the firetube nozzles for air that should be coming out of them. It would be the same as having a big hopper air leak. Not good.
Just looking for possible reasons for the gasifier not working correctly.
Bob
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Yes, youâre right in @SteveUnruh , but I have the screws there that hold the hopper against the fire pipe.
@Bobmac , there is a hose to the tank and this is completely tight, I remove the hose but when I empty the spare can.
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Not suggesting, just charing what I did. A deviding ring - to prevent juice from re-entering the firetube. Tar will bake up around it over time, make it seal and keep the correct distance between rising hot wapours and juice gutter.
When replacing the funnel, this is what the hopper and âgutterâ looked like after almost 4 years of everyday driving. No cleaning needed. Drain at 9 oâclock.
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