Yes. Yes. Fill this area mounded up with furnace cement as J.O. shows. It will heat cure. Get the immediate results of sealing your joint; and heat isolating.
S.U.
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No, it will probably serve the same purpose when tar bakes up (or cement right away). Only difference is the funnel will steal slightly more hopper capacity resting on the firetube and with the hopper floor lowered (more empty space in the gutter area). My thinking was our hopper vessels are short enough as is.
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I really like the simple design you both have here it is KISS all the way for connecting the hopper to the firetube.
Yes Jan I like the rised lib of the firetube. I am doing what you are doing on this new build that I am working on now. All of you have given me good conformation that it is okay to do it this way. Thank you all very much.
Bob
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I am just going to use a taller barrel for more wood hopper space. It will be a two piece hopper so the upper section can be removed for maintenance or repair work.
The imbert design does have some advantages over the WK design I think in its KISS design to building in the hopper area. I am also still adding the hopper cooling tubes and upper gutter
Bob
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Yes, a 2 split hopper is probably good, the stateâs machine testing did so in the 60âs here.
You can see the split just above the condensation pipe, and the locks to the top bit on the left side.
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Excellent JanA.
Note how far the hopper condensate collection if from the air nozzles upward plume of heating. Even far from the produced gas collection jacket.
The manufacturing lower housing to upper housing are flange joints are at least ~150mm from the air nozzles heating area too. Hard V-8 engine pulled or fuel ran down to just blown char chunks at the nozzles and you get metals destroying hot there.
All things us âmodernâ woodgaser have had to learn the hard ways in the last 15 years over here.
This one is very sensible to my eye.
Many of the Finn guys based on their own Govâmint/University models still insist on putting their flange joints just above the nozzles levels. They then have to use thicker flanges. Do super picky hand TIG weld and still have cracking leaking failures. (no they seldom talk about that - you have to read between the lines of them down for welding repairing)
Government models and true patent licensed Imberts were made to be massed manufactured produced.
DIY, we have flexibility, to get into troubles . . . or with complexity actually build for better performances.
W.Kâs. with their very complex super hopper fuel dryers. For wetter fuels capability.
BenPâs center section outlet gas heat transferring âpyrolysis acceleratorâ section. For wetter fuels capability.
Government units (except for the terrible USofA, F.E.M.A.) are based on a central controlled, specification wood fuel distribution scenario, imho.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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I was home and changed the oil and checked the lights, will inspect tomorrow, thought Iâd show how my intake looks like after about 2000km, I have leca balls and about 1" of foam rubber on top on the filter, it doesnât get that much soot.
I havenât done any steering to the idle yet (lazy) so I usually get to adjust it once a month or so.
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Very nice idle, Jan. Iâm amazed you manage to do without an adjustable idle setting. Doesnât the idle differ with a cold/hot gasifer or a tight/coarse charbed?
Oh, and btw, have you had a bath and decided what to wear Friday, when Niklas arrives with the big camera? 
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I donât know if there is that big difference, I have to adjust the idle after a while, I think it is when soot starts to get into the intake, I hope it goes away when (if) I get the glass fiber filter.
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No, the car didnât pass the inspection this year either, too high co values, I who thought it would be good when I had changed the spreaders.
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Hi Jan, how is your catalytic converter? I had an Chevrolet s10 (ordinary, gasoline) some years ago, it started sounding a little more and more (no mufflers, only cat. ) it once stalled for me when i backed up our driveway, i re-started it with heavy right-foot, and shot a perfectly tennis ball shaped piece of catalytic internal material at wifes Volvo behind me 
Im asking just because, later i had almost exactly the same readings at inspection, it didnt pass, i managed to fit a catalytic converter from; i believe, an old Saab, the original one was totally empty.
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Jan, a couple years ago, with the puckup, I had to turn the fuelpump voltage down to pass CO-requirements. I forget, but you use a PWM, right?
Last inspection the woodgas piping leaked enough air in, bypassing the AFM, that I didnât have to.
Just a couple of DIY options.
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I tryed fooling the emisions tester too on my Mercedes. Problem is, when you cut the fuel or leak in air, lambda goes out of range. Took a combination of peraistance and luck to finaly just about get bout in the range for a few seconds to get the good reading out.
And yes, being alowed to fidle with the engine while at the inspection track did require placing 20 bucks in the inspection book
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The truck is very old as far as a catalytic converter goes. Might be best to get the converter replaced like Goran said.
The converter could also be Poisoned. If the engine has ever had oil burning problems it can coat the precious metals and render them useless. You will run into this issue faster if you use Diesel rated motor oil in a Gasoline engine.
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For some reason I find the lubrication system in your country very funny. I wonder what would happen if I tried to bribe the inspector here Last time, we had good discussion about woodgas in general though. It turned out the inspector owned a woodgassed old A-Ford, which his great grandfather built back during WW2. I ended up getting a 75% discount 
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I put on a new catalytic converter last year, and havenât put any pwm there, donât know if it works on this injection?
Will there be the right pressure so that the injection opens?
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On the fuel pump it could work, but I wouldnât rely on it all the time. The Spider injectors are fussy about fuel pressure. I believe the PWM still keeps the pump at the standard running voltage and just intermittently turns it on and off in pulses as the name Pulse Width Modulator implies.
I am wondering if the standards have been raised for carbon emissions, in the US Iâve never heard of a 4.3L fail an inspection.
How hot is the engine when you go get it inspected? Iâve heard if the car has been running long enough for the oil to be hot the emissions improve.
I have 30km to the inspection (18 miles) so it should be warm enough, am a bit doubtful about the temp gauge though, it is mostly around 60 degrees c (140f)
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Iâd say itâs at operating temperatures.
Iâm not sure why else the ratings would be high.
Have you changed the Oxygen Sensors recently?
Yes, I changed it last year too.
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