Chevrolet s10 4.3

I wonder if maybe your problem spells moisture.
If there’s moisture in the cyclone there’s definately moisture downstream in the hot filter barrel. Probably why your stainless filter pluggs.
My guess is if you get the condensing hopper fixed and use really dry wood you should be rollin in no time :smile: Bone dry char in the gasifier outlet will fly.

Edit: Remember Johan Linell (vedbil.se) and his red Volvo142 ? He was forced to insulate his hot filter barrel to avoid moisture plugging his filter.

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Yes, it does not seem that the unit works to removing the water, I have not received anything in the drain from the unit since I put the cone in it. But i was out and heat the lecan (clay), it contains lots of water, must probably dry it before the next test.
YO, what size do you have on the 5 nozzles?
Is it abnormally much soot, do you think on my paper? (pictured above)

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Yes, I think you need cirkulation of the moist fumes in the hopper to make them get in contact with the cold surfaces. With bone dry fuel I collect 1-2 liter of juice on every full hopper. WK-tubes would probably collect even more.

And yes, I think a hot filter has to be a dry filter. At least if you’re using a fabric or the ss screen. The woodgas has to stay above dewpoint. Less moisture will keep the temp up some, but you may need insulation to keep that big barrel hot anyway.

My nozzles are all 8mm ID, 5 lower and 10 upper nozzles.

I’ve never tried the paper trick, but maybe the soot sticks to it because of moisture in the woodgas.

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At Argos this last year driving on Ron Lemler kiln dried wood I collected and drained enough condensate to get us all into trouble :frowning_face::frowning_face:

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Thank you for helping me. I was thinking about what the error might be, it seems that what I do has no major impact. When I look at how I made the unit and what it looks like today, I see a place that has been very hot on the cylinder for incoming air.
Do you think I have a leak between the outgoing gas and the area around a nozzle?


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I was just about to say this. There is a saying among woodgasers. There are usualy 3 bigest causes for gasifier malfunction. Leaks, leaks and leaks.

What you describe seems like a clasical hot leak problem to me. That is a leak in a hot area that burns part of the gas.

You use the push blower the leak cant pull in air so the problem is gone. Gas is good, car starts right away. Uses the good gas in the unite, but the vacuum starts leaking air in and burns the gas, resaulting in lean and wet gas (from H2 burning to H2O).

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Agree. The air mantel should stay relativly cool.

Agree. This adds to the moisture problem - or it’s probably even the main moisture problem.

I gave a lot of thought to hot leaks when I started my build. I didn’t trust my welding skills and I think I came up with a way to have any critical weld with air on one side and hot woodgas on the other, buried in the ash cone. My thinking was the tary crust and ash would seal any pinhole. You’ve seen this old scetch before.

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I took apart the heater yesterday, found no leak, tried with water but seems to be tight.
I have clay balls as filters now, these contain water, can it make the gas get too wet?
The gas burns well but is very humid.
Has run the unit with the fan about 1 hour got about 1 liter of water in the bottle, (had the cork left on the bottle yesterday when there was no water hmm, can I blame the age?)



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What kind of wood do you burn?

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The moisture should turn to condensation in the cooler pipes, if they stay cool enough.
BUT…whenever I put my hand on my cooler pipes they seem cool. Still, I collect most of the water later on, in the hayfilter. The more surface area and residence time the better. Only when the bed is filled with pipes and buckets you hit the limit :smile:
In other words - it’s a tradeoff.

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I have pine twigs that the sheep eaten on
, very dry and hard.

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Just a thought, but would removing the relay for the fuel pump and making an adapter with spade terminals and some wire not work for any reason? I was thinking of just using the fuse and have the pump either on or off on my generator.

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Kenny, I put a 4post single throw switch on the dash. I pulled the fuse for the ‘‘injectors’’. Made two wires with a spade on one end of each. Plugged each of those spades into where each spade on the fuse had been plugged into ‘‘injector’’. Then ran the two wires over to one side of the switch. ( in one wire I put a fuse/fuse folder.) That took care of turning on and off the injectors. Then I went under the hood and on the passenger side firewall is a large removable cover. Remove the cover and on the wall is a ''gray ''wire going to an encased fuse. Cut that wire and attach a very long wire to each end of the cut gray wire. Run the long wires back to the dash, and connect each wire to the open poles on the switch. One flip of the switch shuts off the fuel pump and the injectors. TomC

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It seems to be going much better now, but thinks it smokes a little here and there, see if it is leaks or it burns garbage.
https://youtu.be/MB3vd_DphpA

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Good morning Jan .

Thanks very much for taking us with you on a woodgas drive :slightly_smiling_face:

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Thanks Wayne, it is very much you and your friends who made this possible, you have helped me a lot.

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Any details to report? Power/speed, temps, vacuum. Have you installed any guages yet? Consumption? Ash/char, condensation? Did you install the second rail and what does the final setup look like? Lot’s of questions :smile:

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Well, that’s what I would ask you, I only have one thermometer yet, where should I put it, where is it most important to know the temperature?
I’ve only been driving for 70-75kmh, i know that you said you drove in your unit?
We have probably traveled about 25 km by country road and 30 km by forest roads, I have a hard time knowing how much air I should have, think it is difficult to set up, especially when we are looking at animals in the forest, and drive very slowly.
I’m wondering if I should set up the idle a bit, but don’t know how it affects the automatic box.

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I have to show what I’m interested in, too, is only in Swedish, but many pictures.

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Hi Tom
I only cut the fuel pump on my truck.
Why deactivate both the injectors and the pump?

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