Hmm, it didn’t work so well with the bigger firewood can, my car is drowning in water.
I put an edge at the joint between the wood cans, so all the water from the top runs down the fire pipe, it doesn’t like to run on water.
4 Likes
I remember Max once suggested a cut in half bicycle rim as a gutter. Doesn’t have to be welded, only compressed to the wall. I liked the idea, but never tried it. Just saying.
7 Likes
What kind of seal do you have under the cover JO?
2 Likes
Filler lid?
A stove rope smeared with red silicone.
1 Like
No, the oil pan lid.
On the Mazda I use the original barrel lid seal and locking ring. On the Volvo I use a barrel bottom (shortage of lids) and just siliconed and bolted it to the hopper vessel.
1 Like
Ok, I would need a seal for the middle part, I think I will try with the bottom molding for the door frames.
I think I got the water in order, but now it started to run very strangely, responds very poorly, so I’m thinking that it’s drawing air into the joint between the barrels.
Does it smoke at shutdown?
Edit: If anything a leak into the hopper should increase power. Apart from a smoky shutdown I would get hopper puffs now and then if the leak was big enough.
Have you checked if the overflowing condensation caused a tary crust on the furetube walls? That happened to me when I broke the Volvo gasifier in. I didn’t seal the gutter barrier, tary water poured down the sides of the firetube and caused the internal diameter to shrink about 2 inches all around. Probably the main reason I made tar on my maiden voyage, but by the time I noticed the crust, the barrier already sealed up.
4 Likes
Yes, but not much, I have a neoprene seal, seems to work pretty well, but would be better with a round strip.
5 Likes
The bigger hopper (can) is doing it job getting the extra moisture out of the wood. Build a gutter and drain the water out to a container so it does not try to go on down through the firetube. If my wood is more then 18% water content, I will be dumping water every couple of hopper loads. About 4 or 5 loads of wood a lot of water and a little bit of tar too but not needed to dump the tar just my cherry wood makes it.
Bob
4 Likes
I’ve thought about using a bicycle rim half for a gutter ring, tack welding in a few places and siliconing to seal it until the tar can seal it better. Good to know others have thought of it as well.
5 Likes
Yes this a great idea. Cutting it down the spoke holes and cut it to fit. Now I need to find some metal bike rims. I have been using the barrel two middle ridges.
Bob
2 Likes
I’m going to try this, they had something like this in the book I was talking about, although they had perforated sheet metal.
I got a lot of water yesterday, but the car ran badly, I hope it’s a leak between the hopper and the upper part.
5 Likes
This is much like how i did it on my Chevrolet, only i have two rows of cuts in the upper part.
Works great, the cuts seems to not clog as easy as a mesh.
4 Likes
Oh, I thought I got a lot of water out of the wood before.
Went out and drove 34km this evening in the forest, when I got home the whole tank was full 5L of water, so now the condensation seems to be working.
One question, my car is leaking a little oil from the clamped hoses to the radiator and filter, do they need to be clamped, can I change to hoses with hose clamps?
4 Likes
Leaks can be some of the problem, but the water is the sign you can see for sure. To much water in a engine running on gasoline or diesel will not run right.
Bob
4 Likes
Jan, that’s a lot of water. Makes you wonder how old true Imberts stayed lit 
7 Likes
Hi Jan, do you have a moisture meter to check your wood? If my wood was 25 to 30 in moisture content, I mighty expect that much water maybe more.
Bob
5 Likes
Jan, those testers arent the most realistic thing on earth… and the math doesent add up. Only real way to determine moisture is the old fascion way. Weight, dry on 120c in an oven for a hour, weight again, calculate…
5 Likes