I only ask because wind resistance is only a factor after around 50km/h. I think having a round hopper helps to shed wind resistance some, I bet the conical lid will also help reduce drag.
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Iâm still really interested in having someone show me some data about how much resistance that hopper really makes and tie it into fuel usage. Looks really good Jan.
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If you put a wind cutting V in front of the barrel the wind resistence would go down a lot. The front of the vehicle itself and windshield are the biggest problems and under the vehicle. Better to deflict the wind around the lower under below the bumper part to stop the under drag that is being created too.
This would makup for the loss of the barrel sticking up over the cab of the vehicle.
Bob
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Looking good Jan. Is that extension part of an ordinary barrel? Were you able to fit two lips inside the locking ring?
Now you should be able to pay me a visit on one single hopper, right?
On the aerodynamic note. This may be something to aim for on your next build 
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Yes, it is a piece of an oil drum, I have welded on a ring of a cap, which attached to the stainless barrel.
It will be interesting to see how many kilometers this lasts.
Went out to sjöÀndan and tried it, but didnât notice any difference in speed or that it would go heavier, think itâs insignificant.
It will be interesting to see if the condensation improves with the profile of the upper part and the lid.
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Oh you need to build at least two of those, for World Championship Woodgas jousting tournament.
on a slightly more serious note, using a tonneau cover over the back of the truck would help aerodynamics quite a bit
on a less serious note
They make lowering kits for those and I think all the air rams for racing for those. BUT that would require you to repaint it a bold color with racing stripes, add racing numbers and sponsorship decals which is too much work for no performance gain. 
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Well guys if the winter roads snows and driveways in&out berms remove it then you did not really ever need it.
Most of our vehicles have lost their lower aerodynamic enchantments.
âA woman with her dress pulled up runs much faster than a man with his pants down.â Or so they tell me.
S.U.
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Same here, I live in a magical world where things like âRailroad Crossingsâ and sharp 45 degree hilled driveways exist 
Before I had replaced all the struts in my Mazda, I kept scraping the valance on the incline of my friendâs driveway.
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Just for fun: Iâve found some picâs of my old woodgas-Volvo, as can be seen the gasifier really sticks up, the wind following the roof, down the back window, and where a youngster should put a âdrag-racing-wingâ a gasifier is in the wayâŠ
I never noticed any influence on the âaerodynamicsâ? (Yeah, a Volvo is streamlined as a steam rollerâŠ)
But there was very good cooling of the monorator.
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How were those upper arms attached to the car? I suppose you couldnât open the trunk lid and instead went through the back seat.
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Hi Cody, the upper arms went through the back wall of the trunk, to the front end of the trunk, welded to 2 vertical posts, welded to the bottom of trunk and upside, right under the rear window where a reinforcement beam was located, i can make a drawing tomorrow if you want?
It was possible to open the trunk lid, the reason to the gas-pipe goes right up, then forward. Had to cut a piece of the lid where the two gas-pipes goes together to one. (I used double/parallell cyclones on this one)
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Ok it makes more sense now. So you cut the vertical part of the trunk lid so the struts could go through?
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Do you still have that car Goran? I apologize that my keyboard doesnât have a way to put the two little dots above the O in your name. Is that called an Umlaut? That is a very clean set up for the gasifier on your Volvo.
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Is this the gasifier you are working on now for the truck? I like the chain at the belt for your wallet.
Bob
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Glad to see you and I are both focused on the essentials Bob. Some people donât pay attention to the finer details. 
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No, Tom, that car is retired, a friend saved it when i was into sending it to the junkyard, the rust killed it (the car body), also gasifier needed a rebuilt (rust) and engine wasnt very economical with itâs oil addiction (leaks, blue smoke) many miles on woodgas, some with no gas cleaning at all 
also i milled down the head to a cr 16:1, occasional driving on gasoline did no goodâŠ
Nothing to apologize about the o/ö 
The dots makes the O sound like Ea in the name Earl.
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Hi Robert, no this is one of my first gasifiers, (some version of it), this photo is maybe 22 years ago, time really flyâs? Im in my 20:s on that pic.
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You have been into gasification for a long time, 22 years plus. Wow, most of us are newbes. Lol
Rust, the enemy to medals.
Bob
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@JO_Olsson do you have any idea how I can get the tar and the water out of the barrel, there will be a plug right outside the barrel, it is apparently far too cold at the bottom of the barrel.
Have tried adding more insulation, see if that helps.
I donât have any holes or slits in my cone, do you think that could be the reason that it gets such bad heat at the bottom? (no circulation)
I donât know, Jan. I do have a separated internal hopper circulation, but not all the way down into the gutter area. My bottom gutters (barrel floors) are cold to the touch too and the outlets do plug up now and then during winter months.
I donât remember how your hoppers are attached to the firetube. Mine are sandwished between the domed top plates (car rim) and gutter spacers, only an inch or two higher than nozzle level. Some heat is conducted to keep the tar liquid, but not enough for short rides during winter. Insulation should help, but is it enough? I donât know.
Edit: Maybe you could weld a piece of flat stock or something between the gasifier and the gutter outlet area? Should transfer some heat.
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