Do you have any good tips for avoiding puffs when I open the lid?
I’m starting to get short hair and my hair smells weird.
It is very lightly puffed now when I open the lid with the new hopper.
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Are you running a blower to suck the woodgas up?
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Yes, usually I run the fan for 1-2 minutes before opening, but it doesn’t seem to help now, seems to have a lot of gas in the hopper.
Will try opening a small gap on the lid when I run the fan, see if that helps.
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Jan, at first I thought you meant hot refueling, but then you say you usually run the fan prior to opening the lid. So, cold start it is?
Don’t you ever run the fan with the lid open? That would pull fresh air into the hopper. I doubt much of the gas will escape the hopper if you’re drawing air in only through the nozzles.
Only other way I know of is lighting the hopper on purpose and take cover 
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Here’s how Marcus hot refuels
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It’s when I’ve stayed for 2-3 hours, I usually fan it then, and see if it’s still warm.
The new hopper keeps the heat much longer, and when I lift the lid to fill, it pops right away.
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Thanks for the link the movie Cody, I haven’t tried filling the new hopper while driving yet, the old one worked fine, didn’t have to do anything more than lift the cap, I don’t have the idle chang yet, but used to work anyway.
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Drove about 50 km yesterday (31miles) and got 5 liters of water out of the hopper this morning, is it quite normal when I have about 13-17% water in the wood?
One more question, the lad bought a s10, 4.3, 4x4 tbi, is there anything to build on, it’s one with a rear seat, which I miss for the dog?
edit; it was a 2002a for SEK 6000 (600 dollars) with a gearbox on the flatbed, the reverse does not work on the box that is in it.
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The more water from the hopper the better 
No matter to start calculating the moisture content of the wood, versus collected water, just be happy you have a well functioning “monorator” or condensing hopper 
Also, when letting it cool down overnight you get much more condensate, if you check directly after drive you probably only got 2-3liters?
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Yes the hopper condensation is being removed while we sleep 
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I took a wood piece from the middle of a bag that I run Chevan on. Got 32% water according to the meter, had the same piece on the element 1 day, weighed 40g from the beginning now weighs 25g. Can I say then I drive on water?
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Ha! Only if you want to claim the name of Jesus.
JanA, yesterday I went up to visit a friend living way up on the hill at the very dead end.
His “little” chainsaw would not start for him. Previously I had him take his larger, older 028 Stihl saw into the shop as the chain oiler had quit. At the same time, he’d taken in the much newer, smaller MS170 saw as not starting. They cranked it right up. “What’s the problem?” Now weeks later he cannot get it started.
First thing I dumped out his fuel/oil mix. It was a muddy brown! What, the . . . !!
What is the oil you are using? I want to see the bottle. A quart bottle of AG store brand that has to be at least 30 years old. It was brown, indeed. I refueled with my own this season bought non-ethanol gasoline and a newer synthetic oil. Fifth pull it started up. One pull thereafter.
He said it could not be his gasoline/oil as his bigger older saw started up just fine.
The saw shop day it was 80F/26C. Yesterday we were at 38F/4C after a colder night. Makes a big difference on the fuel’s volatility, ignitability.
The little saw DID NOT have the same gasoline in it as the bigger saw! The gasoline mix in it sitting for over a year. Had it been “summer gasoline”? Or “winter blend gasoline”? Who knows. They blend down summer gas for minimal pollution vapor spewing and flash ignition safety.
He has also been buying the more expensive non-ethanol 92 RON gasoline. Modern Stihl says use mid-grade 89 RON gasoline. Premium to resist knocking has a higher flame point. Is actually less active. You get the better power only with higher compression and a more aggressive ignition timing.
He will dump out his one gallon can. Get new winter 89 RON gasoline and an oil at least currently made in this decade.
Same-same with your two woodgas systems.
Your larger heavier loading Chevy truck can maybe eat 32% moisture wood.
Obviously, your heat-smaller, Iller one cannot. Just have to use pre-drier wood.
And the smaller Iller system should be using a smaller wood chunk to get the active surfaces better exposed. More quickly devolve into replenishing wood charcoal.
As much, if not more tuning can be done with the wood fuel as with gasifier hearth changing.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Yes, I made shorter and drier wood for Illern, but ran out of it in the forest, so I took a sack from Chevan, there may have been wet wood in it too.
17% water on the outside and 32% in the middle of the bag, couldn’t believe there was such a difference.
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Here is the odd thing. I had six month old mix. No Stabil, Stihl mix oil. I thought what the heck and put it in both the Stihl Saw and Stihl weed wacker. Weed wacker started right up on it and ran fire through several fill ups. Saw wouldn’t even burp. Put new gas in the saw and it fired right up. I can’t understand that
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One of the guys here in Sweden, wondered how much wood my car takes, I tested this evening.
About 3kg (6.6 pounds) per 10 km (6.2 miles), spruce? wood, about 35 liters.
@Woodrunner what do you think about using waste oil as chain oil for the chainsaw?
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Hi Jan, im totally against using waste motor oil in chainsaws, not being “a snob” or such, or because the damage it does on the oil pump, But! When cutting, will one really get all the cancerogenus stuff in used oil airborne? To breath in when when working hard in the woods or by the woodpile? Waste motor oil is really about 500% more dangerous to breath in, and get on the hands than fresh motor oil (this is only what i’ve heard on a course in “workshop healt class”
Anyways, i don’t tell others what to do, just throw out a “word of warning” and yes, i’ve used waste motor oil in some saws to (not my favourite ones 
)
Last i’ve tested is canola oil? (Rapeseed oil?)
And it works perfect, a little cheaper than standard chain oil, and not that “gooey” that bio-degradable oil (that probably contains linseed oil?)
Adjust the oiler so it oils excessively, fill oil every other gasrefill, (oil are cheaper than bar and chains)
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Goran I’m not surprised Canola worked good for you, before it was rebranded as Canola it was called Rapeseed like you said, and was used in firearms up until petroleum based lubricants were cheaper to use, so maybe up til the 1920s in the United States. I know for sure that it was in widespread use in the 1890s during the Spanish American War and some of those bolt action rifles had very tight tolerances.
I will never cook with Canola anymore, because it’s heated up so much in the water removal process it’s almost rancid when bottled. Smells stale even if you open a new bottle. Virgin Olive Oil and Sunflower Oil for me only if I don’t use animal fat.
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Thank you Goran.
I’ve tried rapeseed oil, but didn’t clean the tank with regular oil afterwards, so it messed up. Haven’t used waste oil, but know many who do, hence the question.
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Yes many uses it, and it works good, i just think we shouldnt forget the possible healt risks, instead of being affraid to destroy our saws.
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Bar oil goes on sale here several times a year for 7 dollars a gallon. When it does I buy a few gallons. Waste oil has microscopic metal particles that will screw up an oil pump and also abrade your bar and chain over time. Not nearly worth it. I’ve also decided to stick with regular 2 stroke mix oil. I’ve dropped down to 40 to 1 on advise of the guy on the Ironhorse youtube channel. I’ve also stopped using Stihl brand oil because of several youtube channels but I still think that there is a big container somewhere that they all fill their branded little bottles out of.
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