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Now, it was supposed that you others who run on wood, should tell us how much wood you use, so I have something to compare with.
Iâm old and forget almost everything these days. 
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I usualy see a consumption double that of petrol. So if a it consumes 7.5l/100km it will consume 15kg wood/100km. Seems about right for you too.
Also, l count one liter of hopper spaace per one km. Thats with dense oak and beech, or charcoal. Your spruce is way bulkyer
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20kg/100km on longer trips. With lotâs of shorter trips, lightups and shutdowns, the real life avarage is closer to 30 kg though.
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Thanks for the answer, then it doesnât seem to be too much if I think about the weight.
One more question, I lose about 35mbar between the top of the hopper and the cooler, so the cyclone is involved in this, is it a lot, I have a hard to understanding this.
Hi Jan, what is your ratio between the hopper and cooler. 1 to 2, 1 to 3, 1 to 4 mbar in difference? The mbar vaccum will change up and down when running the gasifier. It is the difference in the ratio that tells you your charbed condition loose or tight. Or the filter condition of the filter by vaccum gauges before and after the filter. If the ratios are the same 1 to 1 this is free flowing no resistance. If the ratios are high 1 to 6 the filter is cogging up. High resistance flow. This changes on every build of a gasifier because they are built a little different from one another. Even the ratio can be different on gasifiers when comparing the 2 when running. In the prefect world of design on paper with all the numbers and formulas it is the same. But not in real life running conditions.
Here is my thinking: Is the gasifier making good gases and running good going down the road? Yes, good.
Is it bridging in the hopper when going down the road? No, good.
Are my ratios okay. My gasifier runs between 1 to 3 and 1 to 4 ratios between the vacuum gauges. This is normal for my WK Gasifier. The hopper and the rails.
How far can I go with the type of wood I am using with a full hopper at highway speeds? 48.2 km or 30 miles. Lets just say HummâŠnot so good. I want to to farther down the road between stopping and filling the hopper up. I need to add more hopper space then. Now, how do I keep it from bridging wood with a taller hopper becauses of the changes I have made. Or this I can just fill up more often or drive slower in stead of 112.6 kmph or 70 mph. I have decided for now to just drive slower at 96.5 kmph or 60 mph. Filling up at about 80.4 km. or 50 miles.
This is with hard cherry wood that I am driving on.
Your gasifier vehicle will be different then any other gasifier for its normal running conditions. These conditions are not fixed, but are flexable because of other conditions like weather, wood types, speeds, moisture.
Bob
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I would consider that normal at 100km/h 2500rpm.
Undertrycket i vedförrÄdet ska optimalt vara 1/3 av undertrycket i kylaren. Faktiska vÀrden varierar med last, men förhÄllandet dem emellan Àr konstant.
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Thanks JO, then itâs pretty good, because I have the cyclone included in the negative pressure
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I took the choke out today, oh how much it had shrunk.
The top ring is from the same tube as the one I had in, it has shrunk over 1/2" it looks like
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I forgot that you are young enough to have adapted to those foreign tape measures. May as well be a piece of banding strap as far as Iâm concerned.
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That is a noticable smaller diameter compared to the new one. You will see a difference with the larger restriction open from the older shrunk down one. The rule for is this. At nomal running temps on the gasifier and then when idling you can increase the opening of the restriction as long as you do not make TAR. This is where your other 75% of gasification knowledge kicks in.
Bob
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Those of you who have been doing this for a while, how do I know if the engine is getting too little gas, or if the engine is getting bad gas?
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Good morning Jan .
I think if you were making good gas but little of it the motor would idle and operate at low rpms well and choke down at higher speeds .
If you were making bad gas but plenty of it the motor may not start at all and if the gas was flared it would be a yellow flame 
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Thanks Wayne.
I have increased the diameter of the restriction again, and driven a bit.
It seems the car responds better and is stronger.
Is it because it breathes more easily or because more charcoal is activated?
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I think both will happen 
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I talked to Jonas here in Sweden about my car not being able to handle the hills.
He suggested that I test the vacuum at the intake and where the hose comes out of the flatbed.
I had 70mbar at the intake, and 45mbar out at the flatbed, at 80kmh (50 mph).
When I increased to 60mph, I had a difference of over 65mbar.
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There you go, to much restriction in the piping?
As you suspected earlier, right?
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Iâm bad at this too, but I suspect that the resistance is too great, itâs as much as I have through both the unit and the cyclone.
Thats a lot of restriction, what diameter piping did you have?
Is it plugged in, for example a bend, or elbow?
Underpressure increases fast due to gas flow, (in square) double the flow, four times the underpressure (if i remember this right)
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I have drain bends (plastic) from Biltema, I think they are 47 mm inside, and hose that is about 50 mm inside.
The car has always been bad on the slopes, so donât believe something is clogged.
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