Yes, you are probably right, it will be interesting to see when the birch wood has dried.
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HI jan- I think WK runs about 600 or 800 f at the cross over between the heat exchanger and the hopper grate area exit tube.The good thing about his good sized heat exchanger- it also cools out going gas before it hits the cooling rails. Then again its a trade off on the extra weight of a heat exchanger; my v 8 dakota will be a good test of gas temp leaving the heat exchanger in ASAP i get it finished.Looks like you have plenty of wood to use in your area.CHEERS.I got too get some hard wood chunks up to dry in time for argos- hopefully.
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Thanks Kevin.
Then there is probably no major difference in the output temperature of our units.
I also see that it is difficult to measure the temperature, because a lot depends on how the probe is positioned and whether it enters the gas stream, and does not measure the metal in the pipes.
My cyclone is quite efficient and doesnāt weigh much, but it doesnāt have a heat exchanger.
Iām also waiting for the birch wood to dry.
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Iām so surprised that I have such a high exhaust gas temperature, unlike many of you.
Could it be because I have so much insulation on the lower part of the unit, look at this picture, (found in the library in the imbert book) the gas is cooled quickly by the outer plate wall, and with insulation it is not cooled so quickly, which also means that the heat in the core tube is also maintained?
I have no insulation in the bottom, and when I clean the ash, the gas temperature drops by about 50 degrees C.
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Normally I never empty and refill, but Iāve noticed short lived lower temps and better performance also, when I have screened the char and refilled after restriction replacement for example.
I have no other explanation than the char is clean and does a better reduction job. As the char gets mixed with ash again, all is back to normal performance.
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It is when I remove the ash in the ash hatch that the temperature drops, probably because I remove the ash that insulates the bottom
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???
Did the restriction crack? Or the cone? Or both? What material did you use? Cast?
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Itās the cone up to restriction, there was a big bang at the lid, and the temperature went up and down a lot.
So I took the things out and checked, was a little burnt, but donāt think that was the reason for the temperature difference.
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Sounds like the cast iron cracked and gave way
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Oh, I made the cone out of regular 2mm sheet metal.
However, do not understand why the temperature wandered so much.
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Maybe the larger restriction from the 2 mm metal burned away, i plan on installing a brake rotor as some of the others here at doe have used- with a 318 the choke of restriction size is in the DOW BOOK- its important to keep the chock size too match the fuel, and engine size. maybe too big of chike might cause runaway high temps farther away from the reduction and or restriction areas, just gessing though. Because the restriction keeps the heat zero in at the reduction zone.
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Possible, but I wonder if it is not that my restrictions are shrinking, and there are cracks that the gas can crawl through outside the restriction.
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Have any of you changed the gearbox on a 4x4 s10a, wondering how difficult it is and how long it takes?
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Depends on the tools you have and working conditions. If you have a hoist and transmission jack then maybe half a day depending on how hard it is to access the top bell housing boltsā¦ I have done a Ford Ranger on jack stands laying in the dirt. That took a day and a half but much of that time was trying to shake off cramps from working twisted like a pretzelā¦
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Top bell housing bolts are very tight to get to, if i recall the transfer case needs to come off first, this allows the transmission tailshaft housing to clear the cross member, let the transmission hang down and access the top 2 bolts with a 3ā extention a universal joint and socket. The hardest part in my opionion is removing the head pipes off the truck, trans will not come out with the head pipes in the truck. Seen many that where the driver side pipe crosses over it gets cut out and welded back in after or a piece of flex pipe neither of which i recommend personally. Truck needs to be off the ground a few feet to have clearance to get the head pipes out complete and i think it is a slip connection behind the y pipe that is a turd to get apart lots of wiggling back and forth and some torch heat to help loosen it up to slip apart
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If I were going to do that job again Iād make a access hatch in the trans tunnel. I have had to change the in-tank fuel pump on two different trucks and cut an opening out of the bed to access it because otherwise the tank had to be dropped. Then I saw on youtube that about a million other people did the same thing.
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Hmm, doesnāt seem like an easy fix.
My oldest son has an s10 colorado with an extended cab, on which the transmission is bad.
Itās a 2000, so newer and less rust than mine, would like a back seat for the dog, but itās got carburetor injection on it.
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Do you know if there is something else that is usually wrong when the reverse doesnāt work on an s10a?
Is it difficult to change the manifold gasket in the s10?
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