I believe it depends a lot on where the probe is positioned. I seem to level off at a steady 65 first half of the hopper. From there it climbs degree after degree until things happen very fast towards the end. When I reach 80 I usually have only minutes until the alarm screams at 90 degrees.
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Hi guys.
Char glow energy release is amazing, alright.
Without a topping cap of fuelwood shielding; and moistures phase-change boiling; too much of that energy release then escapes upwards. No longer downwards forced channeled by our human needs and wills.
Think of it . . . we design and operations, force this intense devil-enrgy to go downwards against his will when we fuel make gasify.
Far different than when we steal his energy for heating needs allowing him to think he is escaping upwards. Left with only a dribbling-out-echo truly escaping up out a chimney.
More fun and effective I believe to think in animations sometimes than in just pure cold numbers calculations.
After all are not our trees-sources very much animated alive? And their energy input source the Sun is obviously very lively too.
S.U.
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Those temperatures are all in the same range of my WK Gasifier. When I hit 93.3 cĀ° or 200 fĀ° I am out of wood the hot char is glowing through the wood and radiating heat on my prob. The change from 165 fĀ° to 200 fĀ° is in a minutes, depending on the my road speed at that time.
Usual hopper temperature are from 130 fĀ° or 54.44 to 165 fĀ° or 73.89 on the high side. Outside ambient temperatures like summer and winter causes changes in hopper temperature on my single barrel hopper with cooling tubes. No liner inside, just gutters to collect water/ tars juices.
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Draining the water from the gasifier does not give me peace, I wonder where the limit is, where is the optimum?
If I analyze Janās specific example, he stated that he drove 50 km, I assume that he used approx. 15 kg of wood with a humidity of 12%, which means 1.8 l of water. In order to carry out this elimination, we have to burn some wood (1.2 kWh = approx. 0.3 kg of wood), which needs fresh air for burning, approx. 0.3 kg of air. I believe that most of the burning up here forms water vapor, which would mean an additional 0.6 l of water. How much air is needed for combustion, which maintains a high temperature in the hot zone, is unknown, but if I guess and say approx. 3 kg, Iām probably not far wrong. Fresh air now contains more than 10 g of moisture/kg of dry air, which would add 0.04 l of water (negligible), probably the remaining 1.4 liters is due to heat losses.
To conclude, this Janās video shows a fairly realistic situation, well, for me, the ideal situation is when there is no water on the front of the refrigerator, or at least minimally, and the filter remains slightly moist.
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I donāt trust those electronic moisture meters. With the dripping wet conditions and close to 100% humidity weāve had I doubt the readings very much. Even a normal summer, whatever that is nowdays, itās unlikely to reach below 20% moisture content - unless Jan cooked his chunks in the oven before meassuring 
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I have put the prongs on mine into water and they still didnāt read 100 per cent. Still I find it useful. I check a living branch as a base line and then can get some idea of the dryness of what Iām working with. At least it makes me feel a little techie.
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@JO_Olsson and @Woodrunner , do you need to change the adjustment to the idle between you run on petrol or natural gas?
Eg. 800-1000rpm on gas, what is the rpm then if you switch to petrol?
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Jan, in general the idle rpm is a little higher on gasoline vs woodgas. Especially when the engine and gasifier is still cold. Maybe a 100-200 rpm difference. When properly warmed up thereās little to no difference.
On woodgas it depends a lot on the air-mix as well. A rich mix will increase the idle rpm.
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I got separate idle controls, one for the woodgas throttle, and one for carburetor.
At my old Volvo i used for some time to run woodgas through carb, then i needed to open up the throttle more on woodgas, probably most due to higher suction resistance.
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Why does the engine light come on when I drive on birch wood, but goes out when I drive on spruce and pine? (bank 1 oxygen sensor low oxygen content)
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Jan, I have never heard of anything like this before in gasification. This happens every time you switch fuel wood types?
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I think so, Iāve tried it 3-4 times now, and the light goes out when Iāve been driving on spruce and pine for a while.
I drove on spruce and pine, all of last year, and then the light didnāt light up, but when I tested birch this spring. the lamp began to glow.
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All I can think of is - maybe birch wood gives you a richer gas and you you donāt compensate enough opening up the air-mix - maybe.
My light on the Volvo turns on only when Iām running too lean for too long. No codes or guages to confirm, but I can run rich enough that the engine bogs down with too much throttle - still no light.
The Mazda pickup has no oxygen sensor or light. Gives me a better focus on the road- and steering wheel part of the driving
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I do not think so. trying to get the best value for the engine, but I donāt know, I think itās strange.
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I believe that is for controlling air flow. It is meant to improve low end torque. Think of it as a baffle that turns as the engine turns.
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Hereās what it looks like, if itās what I think youāre asking.
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Thanks, do you think this has anything to do with the exhaust values?
I inspected the car and have too high co values this time too.
Strange too, cleaned this and then I can drive on birch without the engine light coming on.
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If it was impeding air flow, it could cause your system to be too rich on gasoline. Perhaps it got dirty and couldnāt move correctly.
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I hope you are right, the oxygen probe says too little oxygen when I drive on birch, should be something similar when I drive on petrol.
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