Ok, I was going to do as you showed me before, suck the oil out of the dipstick hole
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Hey fellows. Always keep your sucked out ATF bottle saved separately. Great stuff to get debris piles burning. It smokes much, much less.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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What do you think about the color of the oil?
Should I do anything more, I have changed 2 liters (0.52gallon)
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JanA. because you have a well used transmission, also pay attention to after fluids changes, to changes in the shifting performance.
Doing some percentage fluid change is good because you did do something. All of the moving parts, especially with sealing rings will seal better and move smoother: clamp down down squeeze harder.
You will have removed some of the worn clutch friction materials being held in suspension. And some of the worn off bearing gear faces and shaft metals too. This is good.
But on a really badly worn thin clutches and band transmission it may only be these fluid contaminates, and aged thicken fluid that are still allowing the frictions to hold and lock.
Imho you could do another 2 liter change out and still be safe.
Then drive it for a year, 15,000 miles/20,000 km. Then another four liters changing out.
Like all things it is not the bright shiny new conditions that makes for good works but settled in average operating conditions you are always trying to maintain.
Doing external pumped forced full fluid flushes often produced BAD performance results. Reverse forced pumped flushes stirs up pockets of settled accumulated deposits that then quickly recontaminate the new fluids.
Like rubbing an animals fir, or feathers the wrong way. Creates great upsets.
Mother you can clean that baby too often, too clean, making skin damage.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Jan it’s good you replaced some of the fluid. That color on the right definitely tells me it was due for some of it to be changed. Still a little bit of pink but now turning brown.
And yes SteveU I agree, flushing with a machine forcing the fluid out can spell disaster. That’s why I prefer to drain through the dipstick tube. I’m not flushing anything or agitating.
Some of the better “Flush” jobs I’ve seen is when they tap into the transmission cooler line, and have their measured amount to be replaced sucked up with the return line. The transmission does the pumping so it’s flowing as intended, no forceful evacuation through the wrong passageway. A lot more setup and labor, but it’s what one of my old master transmission tech coworkers recommended if I wanted to go one step beyond a simple replacement. It helps that most GM transmissions pump fluid in Park/Neutral.
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Cleaned the ash hatch and the cyclone, it had started to get charcoal in the cyclone so it was a little too late, there was a little over 10 liters in the ash hatch and a few liters in the cyclone.
I wonder if there will be so little in the cyclone because I drive on overdrive, and such low revs, now that the car is strong enough for this?
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Jan, I notice when I clean my gasifier out. Dump the ash in the lower gasifier and drop box. Flush the rails out, and other piping, washing out the hay filter more often keeping it cleaner. The gasifier just runs better. So I do this maintenance more often then others do because of the benefits it offers. Less soot gets to my engine intake too so I hardly have to burn my intake out or have a event of it catching fire when driving.
I am careful not to disturb my char bed above my grate to my nozzles, this area I leave it alone.
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We were out riding forest roads this evening, we rode 22.4km, probably not over 1500rpm and about 30-40kmh.
We saw only 1 moose this evening.
Felt the water tank for the hopper when I got home, there were about 4-5 liters in it, completely empty when I left.
Wondering if it takes more water out of the wood when the car is only idling?
Edit:
I’ve lied to you, it was at home in Hörken that I cleaned the tank, so I’ve driven another 12km, so 36km in total, so maybe it’s normal then. 
⁶
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I have heard it also removes water even when the gasifier is shut down and cooling down. Perhaps it does perform better at idle, less suction wanting to pull the pyrolysis gas down to the char bed.
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My car wears the outside of the right front wheel, it also pulls to the right.
The air pressure is correct, what could cause this, could the wheel lean?
I think leaned tire can cause that- but also put a strait edge on the side of both tires,and measure toe in and toe out- it should be dead even or a little bit toe out toward front of the vehicle-- some cars call for dead even and some call for slitley toe out- i used to set mine about 1/8 " with no problems with wear- on older cars like camaro-or chevy s10- but have not tried adjusting toe on front wheel drive cars. most likeky you toe is out of spec. find the spec and adjust the tie rods to fix it. AND make sure tires are both full on are or a little extra- and be sure your strait edge’s are dead strait.
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MY other reply is only if the car was worn on outside of both tires-so disregard since you have only one tire wearing bad- a leaned tire sounds more like it- and pulling to the right could be brake dragging as well-or both.Maybe a loose ball joint or tie rod end could cause that too on one side.maybe CODY has more ideas.
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Kevin I think you suggested everything that I would have suggested and more. I bet it’s a ball joint, or just the alignment is off.
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We were out last night and drove forest roads, we saw a woodgraus (tjäder) and 3 ro deer, but didn’t manage to get any good photos of them.
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That’s a lot of water in only 50 km, Jan.
Do you think it’s because of your extended hopper (more surface area) or does it have to do with the extreem humidity right now?
Imagine a hot Imbert hopper and pulling all that water through the charbed. Seems it would put out the fire right away 
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I think it has to do with the insert, I’ve gotten a lot more water since I put it in, and they got very good results with this one in the book Johan read.
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Is that an inner wall, similar to what I’m using, or something else?
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Yes, although I have a lot of slits in it, so the moisture can pass and get out to the outer hopper.
In the tests they did, they had perforated sheet metal.
Felt the hopper when I got home yesterday, just ran out of wood, it was warm so I could just hold my hand on the top, the rest was pretty cold.
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Sorry to break into your thread Jan, but the question just popped up in my head: what do you guy’s have in hopper temperature on your thermometers?
As i only had this option for, say 2 months, it would be interesting to compare.
My hopper temp stays “surprisingly” steady around 77°c, yesterday i intentionally burned down my wood for inspection, shut it down around 120°c.
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I usually have around 55-70c in the hopper, when it rises to 90c, it’s out of wood.
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