I think it sits too tight for that, I would perhaps make some kind of drip box as Göran suggested, instead of the cyclone, it is probably too good, only the fine soot remains for the filter.
11 Likes
J.O and Jan A.
This is where the flywheel action of that big GM 4.3 V6 keeps things moving. Got one in my old van, awesome power, good running, forgiving engine! 
USA version of “red block” Volvo! although, might be fight’in words for the Ford guys. (I like Fords as well) 
10 Likes
What you have drawn looks great for a drop-box, if you may build it together with the filter would be the best.
I even think that dividing wall could be unnecessary, just make the incoming pipe a little longer, out going pipe flush with housing.
13 Likes
Hello JanA.
You want to not have the incoming flow stir up the settled down area.
So I think make the incoming come in high from a horizontal direction.
The outlet out the top vertically with as GorenK said an extended down pipe.
To allow the time for settling out and separation; the gas flow speed must be reduced with little turbulence.
For settlement separation the best would be a windening area; longer, horizontal flow.
Although the W.K.'s do fine with tall and rather narrow. Because of the added internal features.
The rule established is internal not seen W.K. features we cannot talk about here on the open free side.
Regards
Steve Unruh
10 Likes
Ok, but in this case I want to include slightly coarser particles, so that the soot will drop from the cloth more easily, I thought.
7 Likes
As long as the gas flow has time to substantially slow down in the box, before it exits, the larger particles will fall to the bottom. Like has been said, input flow should not “stir up” what has already dropped to the bottom clean-out area. I think a drop box design has to be on the large side, which is why cyclones are often used for this purpose. 
8 Likes
I suppose someone has made a drop box out of a clear plastic container to be able to view how various configurations effect particulate movement and what happens in the updraft air. What would be considered about the average CFM of air coming into the box?
8 Likes
I think you can draw it in freecad and do the simulations but I’m not 100% sure on that.
2 Likes
Tested this morning how much difference there is in the temperature inside the gas and on the outside of the pipe, now I only have tape no heat conduction paste,
and only grill thermometers, so probably not a good test.
Had driven about 10km, when the picture was taken, about 40mph, with a small trailer.
The top gauge is on the outside of the pipe, the bottom gauge is inside the gas.
12 Likes
Wow, 62 vs 174. That’s some difference 
6 Likes
When we talk temperatures, why does the gas get hotter the greater the resistance are somewhere?
Or is it imagination?
6 Likes
Residence-in-place. Focuses the energy in that one place.
The source of the temperature measured is the hot gas.
Flowing gas distributes out its heat energy spaced out across cooler masses. The distributed out energy will measure at any point as a lower value than the source origin.
Generated energy focused in one spot is how we melt things.
That same amount of energy allowed to flow; distribute out, is how we warm things.
S.U.
10 Likes
That would be considered pristine in MIchigan Jan.
9 Likes
That is a matter of how much you like welding Jan 
Thin body in those s10’s (i had one)
When i had 5 remarks on rust at inspection i sold mine to my father-in-law.
I use fiberglass sometimes on non-structural parts, easy to replace, fenders and like.
But i don’t recomend it…
Repairing a car with fiberglass or putty is like pissing your pants when youre close to freezing to death, it gets better for a short time, then it gets h*%& of worse… 
7 Likes
Yes, I’m thinking of putting an aluminum bed instead, but thinking back and forth as usual.
9 Likes
Haha, that’s what I was thinking…I see nothing wrong 
8 Likes
But, I want a car as nice as yours JO, thinking about painting it black too.
8 Likes
You can get glue on patch panels and fender flares Jan. You would probably have to pay as much for shipping as the parts cost. Maybe Amazon. If the corrosion is not worse than I’m looking at I would probably sand it off, brush on some phosphoric acid to kill what won’t sand off and then spray the lower section with plasti-coat or spray on bed liner. It would be thick enough to fill in any imperfections.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=fender+flares+for+gm+s-10+pickup+truck
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=plastikote+bed+liner
7 Likes