It was a good idea, then I don’t have to be so careful.
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Wait!! I got this very special recipe for RED paint that requires iron oxide and linseed oil. Since the iron oxide is already present, you just need to hit it with boiled linseed oil (or just a clear coat). People pay big bucks for the ‘vintage’ look paint jobs. It is hard to make them look authentic. 
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Now I’ve tried engine cleaning, additives for valve knock, and something to make the oil better, still knocking, can’t hear where it’s coming from, I think it sounds a little more on the right side from the front.
Is it something to be concerned about?
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Hard to hear with the other engine noise but if it’s the tick tick sound I think I heard then it’s a stuck or pumped up lifter. Seems to be a common problem on that engine. At lot of supposed fixes on you tube. I’ll post one and then there will be many more on the right side of the page.
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Jan, I don’t know if it’s relevant to what seems to be a continuous condition, but I suffer from some valve ticking too from time to time. I’ve come to believe it has to do with a chunk of soot letting go and interfering with an intake valve. This usually happens when I’ve done many cold pullstarts in a row and probably some tary fumes. Any soot in the throttlebody area will get a wet surface and heavy enough to let go.
It never happens during winter though - moisture related, I think. Relativly dry and cool air will make less and catch more moisture before it enters the motor and less soot will accumulate in the throttlebody.
I find any ticking will fade away with some reving when the motor warms up and the valves will grind down any chunks of soot towards the seats.
It’s been especially scary with the 3 valve/cyl Mazda interference engine, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I can’t do much about it other than using as dry fuel as possible and try avoid frekvent pullstarts.
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Took it apart a bit, felt almost no play, when I removed the cover over the valves, nothing seems worn, everything looks the same, can i see anything on the lifters if they are worn?
Have I messed up again, and it’s something else?
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Hi Jan, it’s very hard to tell if a hydraulic lifter is bad, therefore i recomended replacing all of them.
There should be no play in the valve train, (springs in lifters take care of this, then oil makes them " hard, stiff" when opening the valve)
When adjusting the “pre-set” on the lifters, i recomend checking youtube, there are lot’s of good videos about it, whitout adjusting with engine running, which makes a oily mess.
Edit: you may post a pic of bottom of all lifters, some signs of wear could be seen.
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It’s a roller lifter, checked but see no faults, will take some pictures tomorrow when I’m home.
One more question, working on the volvo 444, brakes, when I brake very gently the car goes to the left, if I push a little harder it goes straight, I think adjusted correctly, what’s wrong?
edit: put on new brake bands all around.
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Front drums brakes are evil.
Always pre-apply gently to know what they will want to do each and every time. This will internally wipe, warm and dry them for better consistency. Predicability.
One driven through splash puddle WILL change things dramatically!
Dry hot weather then it will be overheating fading you fight with. They shed heat poorly. Prepare to use both feet HARD and still have long stops.
Front drum brakes are Evil. Just pure Evil.
Rear drum brakes are good enough simple and effective. Rear disc brakes add complexity and higher costs.
S.U.
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What SteveU said!
Drum brakes live their life on their own…
Did you replace the wheel cylinders? A little “binding” cylinder often gives this phenomena.
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I renovated all, sanded and new gaskets.
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Perhaps one is simply self adjusting more aggressively than the other? May just be a quirk of the car until it subsides.
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I don’t think there is any self-adjustment on the car, it is from 1954.
Going to drive it a bit to see if the new brakes wear in, before the inspection.
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What others said - drums are evil. A couple years back I switched shoes right-left and drums right-left in different combinations several times before the inspector was satisfied with even enough brakes.
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Hello Jan
I once worked on truck brakes that did very similar. It turned out to be a restrition in one of the flexible brake lines .
You can test by switching brake lines and see if it reacts in the opposite direction .
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Yes, you’re right, it can cause strange things.
Thought last night, wondering if there might be some air left on that side.
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Is there anything other than the lifters that I should check when I have it apart?
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Jan, what did the intake runners look like in terms of soot? From what I’ve noticed soot accumulates mostly in the throttlebody area and as far as I been able to look into the smooth runner bends they don’t attract as much. But I could be wrong. I’ve only been able to see a fraction of their lengths.
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