Gasifier the hive

I would really like to see how these hexalloy bits would last in a Mako type downdraft for charcoal. Could someone send me the eBay link? Maybe with a 14mm inner diameter like how the Makos were done.

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Cody do you have a drawing or photo of the Maco gasifier you talk about , i have had a quick look with nothing showing up in my search .
Thanks

I had a link bookmarked from when I bought mine Cody but it doesn’t come up as the bushing any longer. May be out of stock from the seller on E bay. I don’t remember the name of the seller.

I looked up my purchase history and this is the seller. Doesn’t seem to have those now.

It’s in the Gengas book in the free library on the DoW website. They have a section for the charcoal gasifiers in that book. Mako is on page 109 as printed on the page.
Here’s a youtube video showcasing one. Lucky us he actually shows the inside!

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Oh that one ! lol ok gotcha now , i have seen that style here but i am sure they were called another name , next time i go to Kurth kiln i will take some photo’s of all the gasifiers they have on show https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/kurth-kiln

Now these Hexoloy nozzles have a inside dia of about 1 inch if you need smaller id there are other types around that will suit .

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How would you attach it? Press fit? Too bad there isn’t any NPT threaded ones.

how would you attach to what ? can you tell me how your would like to use it .
There are some with 3/4 NPT threaded one’s with a smaller ID that Bruce found and sent to me and they should also be good for what i do , but have not got round to using them yet .

Use it in a ring of nozzles, probably with a pipe ring air supply as a down draft. The reason why I would want these is for when it is shut down the nozzles won’t degrade from the heat.
Would I just fit these over a metal nozzle and maybe glue with refractory or sodium silicate paste like a muffler sealant?

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The only problem i see gluing them is maybe the expansion / contraction of the steel as it goes through the cycle , my one fits inside a mild steel adapter and it a plug fit so its tight but not overly tight as to need a bash , these will break if it hard , anyway i guess more luck on my part that the expansion of the steel or the carbide must be pretty close as mine is still sat in there fine , if you want the smaller NPT threaded one the link is on the `charcoal nozzle page around the post 50 onwards if my memory working posted by Bruce Southerland

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I came up with another solution:

Steel armoured cable connectors

Remove the rubber seal and replace with a graphite packing rope for a good seal.
Advantages include making the air pipe depth adjustable for setting the distance between the oxidation zone and grate in down draft or cross draft simpler.
As the tip erodes it can be cut, ground or replaced by pulling the whole unit out.

Cody in Nozzles for Charcoal gasifiers, part 2 Wallas proposed this solution

image

I wouldn’t glue it the whole way, just at the base where it would touch the air inlet ring.
Maybe find pipe that fits inside it without force and use muffler sealant sodium silicate glue just to make sure it won’t fall off while going down the road.

I know that I did not invent anything. I just wanted to show you how I produce charcoal while cooking our pigs’ cereals

https://youtu.be/6Tu5O5Zpwh8`
https://youtu.be/rv3qMHkBp9k





Thierry , Québec

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Thanks Thierry. More or less what I plan to build. Barrel in barrel to isolate. And take the preheated air from the outer barrel for burning. Thanks, I know now I am on the right path.

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the next day, charcoal harvest
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e4c_1h-a6Sg6wnyavaZHedo6yi54khHz/view?usp=sharing

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Uploading: DSC_2006 (1).jpg


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Nice looking charcoal you have there.
Bob

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when I drive my truck on the chargas (gasoline pump off) I think a little gasoline is sucked by the injectors
how can I prevent gasoline from being sucked into the engine?
Thierry,Québec

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Thierry, had the same problem with my Mazda truck. I had to find the right wires and mount an extra ON/OFF switch in addition to the fuel pump switch.
The syphoning can even be useful sometimes. Pullstarting the gasifier leaving a big parking for example. The syphoning on my truck is just enough maintain an idle and avoid stalling when bad startup gas catches up for a few seconds.

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Do you have a separate nozzle on the engine for each cylinder? Find a common wire, i.e. ground, and break this with a switch, usually the nozzles are controlled by positive pulses and the ground is combined

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But be carefull, when l did this on my Chevrolet the engine went in to limp mode. Depends on the program l guess


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