yes, 4 injectors.
Would it not be possible to deactivate the injectors by inserting a switch in the fuse box?
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This is what l did. But like l sayd, it didnt work on my model. Try it it may work for you!
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my truck is old OBD1 (primitive computer) I hope not to have too much problem! thanks for the advice
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As long as that fuse doesnât feed something else as well. Didnât work on my truck. I lost ignition as well. Had to cut the common ground for injectors only, like Tone suggested.
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Fellows, sorry to intrude but the common wire to the individual injectors IS battery positive.
I know I am addressing three Europeans and one Canadian, ha!, but Iâve worked on those origins systems too.
They began going positive common as it was longer-life/less-heating for the ECU/PCM driver transistors to control circuit flow, after the load, to ground.
Later with mandated positive vehicle roll-over shut down systems it was easy then to interrupt the âHotâ wire feed for crashed engine; spilled gasoline safety.
This polarity-correct become critical when active diagnosing or usage modifying.
You can blow the ECU/PCM drivers.
My last active 3 years as a working Master Auto Tech I used a PowerProbe II.
Zoom-zoom; really speeds up a fellow on electrical working.
But critical when + power feeding and/or rocker switch for-sure ground circuit suppling to NOT over amp blow components! Easy to do on a Fancy (Hondaâs) with elaborate in-dash bulb-out driver notifying systems just trying to fix a rear light problem. Can cost you a rear light module assembly.
Steve Unruh
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Steve, you made me check my Mazda diagram. Youâre right. Common positive.
I canât even remember what location I physically tapped in.
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A seriously under rated tool, mine is the pp3 and I use it ALL the time. Lives in the service truck next to the fluke meter that I rarely use anymore, the power probe can do so much so quickly very versatile
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I will, at first, simply remove the EFI fuse when the engine is running on the charger and see what happens. If the engine continues to run then I have the solution. If the engine stops it means that EFI is also protecting the ignition circuit.
What do you think? 
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+ 20 more tumbs
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Seems like it would be easier just to wire a kill switch to the fuel pump.
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I think if there was no easy way of getting around the injectors dribbling I would either block the physical fuel line with a valve, or just live with the trickle.
Now I need to look at my buddyâs Cherokee and see if I can common positive shut off his individual injectors. '89 Renix Laredo model very annoying to work with. He wants me to fab up a charcoal unit for it when I get the free time.
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Free time? You keep so many irons in the fire Iâm wondering if you ever sleep.
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I work at a very slow pace and when I get frustrated at one, I move to another I have going. I also donât do much else besides work or help my dad. Before this i was working on motorized bikes and fixing the aforementioned Cherokee while I owned it. Used to play video games but I totally lost all drive to play them anymore. Always wanted to do woodgas and now that I have means to build them and buy components Iâm just living that dream out.
Putting a reactor on something i donât own anymore is least concern though.
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Steve, I apologize for my mistake, the overall bond is supposed to be positive youâre right, this is breaking
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Great, the efi fuse only protects the injectors. When I remove the efi fuse and the truck engine runs on the `` chargas ââ, nothing happens, in reality it produces a different thing.
1 adjustment of the air / gas mixture is much simpler
2 I notice a slight loss of power (the injectors must have sent a significant amount of gasoline into the intake)
3 ... I am very very happy to have solved this problem I have the impression of approaching a vehicle of daily use :star_struck:
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the next improvement i would like to make is an afr probe. But which one to choose there are so many do you have any suggestions for me? 
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I want to move my current topic from âpetrol tractor?â towards âgasify the hiveâ
I canât
I think I will test the gasifier with the bottom nozzle only. Iâm going to free the air outlet from the top of the nozzle (two steel balls are currently blocking this hole)
this nozzle seems to be heat resistant. I have not added water to the charcoal yet
I try to understand why sometimes slag accumulates in large masses at the bottom of the gasifier and sometimes they fall into dust in the ashtray?
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Maybe the type of tree the charcoal was made from? (more or less ash, and composition of ash) (thinking about ceramic glazes) Otherwise, temperature in the nozzle area which would of course change a lot in different runs / batches. 
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Hi Mike thank you for your interest in my problems. I use white spruce branches to make my charcoal, I have a lot of them on my land and they are not valuedâŚI donât know if they contain a lot of ash
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I have always had very hard slag around the nozzle area and also stuck to it , and below or further away from the nozzle tip the brittle more crumblier type whitish `maybe its more down to how much heat in that area than types of wood .
Dave
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