What Bruce said. I find manual control at all times to be the best.
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Thierry,
Iām having a little trouble understanding the details of your final system. I looked back at the pictures and discussion above, but I am still missing some info. Perhaps you could describe for us your current nozzle. Is there a screen over the gas exit flange that goes to the cyclones? Is the space between the inner reactor tank and the outer drum filled with charcoal? Any idea of the gas exit temperature to the cyclones once the charcoal level is down in the inner reactor? Iām intrigued by your geometry and assume it is helping to lower the gas temp before it goes to the cyclones.
I use EGR to keep ash from turning to glass and to keep the temperature of the exit gas as low as possible with good gas. Water adds Hydrogen which gives a slight power boost. It is best to not have water going into your reaction when not under load. Iām still playing with my EGR and adjustable water flow for best gas and lowest exit temperature without water fouling my filters.
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Hi Bruce
thank you for your interest in my construction
here are two sketches that should help you understand.
ask me questions if I am not clear
do you think a screen would be better before the gasifier comes out?
I have not yet measured the temperature of the gas at the outlet of the gasifier. I can hold my hand on the cyclone without difficulty
Thierry
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Thanks Thierry for the sketches. Iām pondering.
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I am worried about the water vapor which enters with the gas in the engine. from how much water can we have engine problems?
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Isnāt most of the water being captured by the SS scouring pads in your oil filter? Is there water in your safety filter?
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hi Bruce
I didnāt know that the SS scouring pads help to take away the water in the gas
not really just a little condensation on the filter walls the next day
Thierry]
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Water captured in the oil filter should be apparent as a light brown emulsion. Look up āagglomeratorā and ācoalescerā to see the effect that the scouring pad can have on moisture and tars in the gas stream.
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Bruce .
I installed a hand throttle and I can now adjust the engine idle perfectly on the chargas
itās great thanks for the help 
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I harvested this vitrified ash cap over my nozzle this morning. I now know that my gasifier can reduce a bit of liquid (water, oil, wood vinegar ā¦). I will test the oil drop by drop tomorrow. 
I am super happy the truck works really well. I will soon start to optimize the different components of the system
Thierry
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Iām starting to think I donāt have water in my gas (no mayonnaise in filter ). a little oil is taken with the gas to the engine (the oil level has fallen by 1/4 "in 1/2 hour of use). the safety filters seem to stay clean. it is necessary that this quantity be reduced .can be a gas expansion chamber so that fine drops of oil can settle before the engine 
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Thanks so much for the reports! Your system has several novel features that are giving us new options to consider. I can hardly wait to read your experiences as you continue to put more time/miles on it.
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I failed to test the oil drip as expected. the cold froze the oil in the small pipes. 
the temperature of the gas leaving the cyclones rose to 124 C. I then stopped the engine. I do not know until what temperature it would be better to stop the engine.
I will test as soon as possible I will keep you posted
Thierry
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Hi Thierry, I have looked at many designs and drawings of oil drips and wondered if the cold would present a problems with this. I have redesigned it making sure the the metal container that holds the oil is up against the gasifier where it can receive some heat but not to much. Also have the drip sight valve on the outside for adjusting the oil drip, but have the pipe on the inside or outside where the small metal line will stay warm so the oil will flow and into the intake nozzle or how you choose to drip the oil into the hot lobe area. This will also work for water drip systems too. Most people use some kind of antifreeze in the water in colder winter conditions.
I am still using exhaust with moisture added to control the temperature into the charcoal lobe hot zone area.
Winter time seems to always produce moisture in the exhaust. In the summer time you can add it to the drier exhaust by a water drip in the exhaust line. Hope this helps solves the oil flow problems in the line you are having.
Bob
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Thanks Bob for the good advice
I modify my oil bath filter in order to reduce the amount of oil carried with the gas to the engine. once this problem is solved, I test the drip drop again
Thierry
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Be carefull using oil drip. While it will boost the gas quality it will not cool the reaction like water! You may ruin your new nozzle.
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thanks for the information Kristijan.
I was wondering about the amount of oil vs water to add to the hot coal to properly regulate the temperature.
I think I remember Garry Gilmore talking about 1 to 2 drops of water / second
for the oil that you recommend me?
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Right, Kristijan, waters extraordinary temp control is
a result of phase change, liquid to steam.
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Thierry, again. Oil will not regulate the temperature. When oil hits the burn zone it starts burning. It does make gas better and it is a good way to get rid of old oil, buf it will not protect your nozzle.
Like Pepe sayd, part of the reason why water is so good at moderating temperature is the phase change, but a lot is due to the fact steam reacting with carbon is highly endothermic, meaning it requires lots of energy and as a resault cools the reactor and gives better gas.
In theory, one kilo of charcoal can reduce one kilo of water but in real life l wuldnt go with more thain 20% so for every kilo of charcoal burnt you inject 0.2kg of water, roughly. You do the math for you.
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Yes, convert wasted sensible heat into good burning gas.
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