Hi Vladislav
1,0,-1 correspond respectively to a mixture too rich, stoichiometric, too lean?
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Hello Trigaux. Personally, I think if the voltmeter shows a voltage from 0.3 to 0.8 volts, then the fuel mixture is normal.
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Important to say that those are narrow band sensors. They DO NOT represent a linear ratio of A/F vs volage. My observations are about the same. I usualy set my air setting at 800mv for town driveing, and lean it to 300mv for highway.
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a narrow band lambda probe is not very expensive…you can also get one for free on old scrap cars.the electrical signal that these probes produce is valuable information for adjusting the gasifier gas
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hello vladislav, is there something new with your gasifier car?
espescially how the nozzle keeps up in your crossdraft system?
ciao giorgio
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I will describe all the changes in detail in the near future.
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I am gradually moving from experimental to permanent installation. I made a gas generator out of a barrel. I shortened the cooler and mounted it under the bottom of the body. The filters remained the same. In the old design of the gas generator from a gas cylinder was the problem of lack of idling, in this design can be, although not always, to adjust the idling, but there is a new problem.When increasing the engine speed from low to high, for example, from 1000 to 2000 processes run normally, and when, even not significant, reducing the speed, resetting the gas, the engine stalls. With such a problem driving in the city becomes impossible. It is still possible to drive in the city. Usually I drive at a speed of 80 km/h (2000 rpm), but when entering a populated area I drop the speed and switch to gasoline, after passing a populated area I turn off the gasoline supply. At 2000 rpm gas is produced in excess, at 1000 rpm gas caloric content is obviously bad. Testing continues. So far, the main task, the construction of a gas generator for city driving, has not solved.
To the figure of the mixer.
1 - ignition fan ;
2 - flap of the mixer, controlled by a servo drive;
3 - flap on the gas inlet;
4 - standard engine filter.
Постепенно перехожу от экспериментальной установки к постоянной.Сделал из бочки газогенератор. Охладитель укоротил и смонтировал его под днищем кузова. Фильтры остались прежними. В старой конструкции газогенератора из газового баллона была проблема отсутствия холостого хода, в этой конструкции можно, хотя и не всегда, настроить холостой ход, но появилась новая проблема.При повышении оборотов двигателя с низких к высоким, например от 1000 до 2000 процессы протекают нормально, а при, даже не значительном, уменьшении оборотов, сбросе газа, двигатель глохнет. При такой проблеме ездить в городе становится невозможны. За городом с этим ещё можно ездить. Обычно ежу на скорости 80 км./ч. (2000 оборотов) , но при въезде в населённый пункт сбрасываю скорость и перехожу на бензин, после проезда населённого пункта выключаю подачу бензина. При 2000 оборотах газа вырабатывается в избытке, при 1000 оборотах калорийность газа явно плохая. Испытания продолжаются. Пока главную задачу, построение газогенераторной установки для городской езды, не решил.
К рисунку смесителя.
1 - вентилятор розжига ;
2 - заслонка смесителя, управляемая сервоприводом;
3 - заслонка на входе газа;
4 - штатный фильтр двигателя.
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The tuyere are made of refractory bricks.
I took half a brick, cut it into two equal parts, cut holes with a disk. The whole construction was placed in a metal box sealed with fireclay.
There is no burnout of the tuyere.
Фурма сделана из огнеупорного кирпича.
Взял половинку кирпича, разрезал его на две равные части, диском вырезал отверстия. Всю констркуцию поместил в металлический ящик с уплотнением шамотной глиной.
Выгорания фурмы нет.
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vladislav, nice construction you have built, also nozzle solution…
i have no experience with cars on charcoal, only small engines till 500ccm , and actually first steps with my chain tractor with 2200 ccm…
as i know from history, crossdraft gasifiers where known as very quick in reaction to deliver the required gas quantity and quality.
maybee your mixer system creates the disturbs?
on all my systems, also on my tractor now, i have only one mixer, a valve that regulates the quantity of air what get mixed in the gas stream ( valve situated before the oil bath filter, so also the air is filtered there)
during operation and driving ( stationary units and long grass mowers and motorcultivator and tiller) i must never regulate mixing on my small engines, and also with the tractor seems the same …
shure someone here with more experience with cars can help
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Maybe. But I don’t touch valve 3, it’s either permanently open or 1/2 open.
Может быть. Но клапан 3 я не трогаю, он либо постоянно открыт, либо открыт на 1/2.
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Tried today without the fine filter, same effect. It was not possible to start at low rpm. At a slight decrease in rpm from 2000, the mixture is sharply depleted, as if someone opens a valve and adds air, and the engine stalls.
Сегодня пробовал без фильтра тонкой очистки, эффект тот же. Запустить на низких оборотах не удалось. При незначительном уменьшении оборотов с 2000, смесь резко обедняется, как будто кто открывает клапан и добавляет воздуху, и двигатель глохнет.
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Is there any excess air coming through the ignition fan?
А через вентилятор розжига не поступает лишний воздух?
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No, I put a cork in it, but I’ll have to try to get it out at all.
Привет, Марат.
Нет, закрываю пробкой, но надо попробовать вобще его вытащить.
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I assume you have already checked for all possible air leaks by applying positive pressure and spraying soapy water on all the joints and seams?
It could be that maybe at low demand your tuyere isn’t making potent enough gas.
(Google translate)
Полагаю, вы уже проверили все возможные утечки воздуха, применив положительное давление и распылив мыльную воду на все стыки и швы?
Возможно, при низком потреблении ваша фурма не производит достаточно мощного газа.
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Gody, Thank you very much for your reply.
These are the two applications in which I work.
I’m double-checking for leaks. Tomorrow I plan to reduce the diameter of the tuyere.
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for my tractor i have 16 mm hole in the tuyere , engine 2270 ccm…
also look for right fuel- carbon pieces - size…
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Hi, giorgio!
Have you ever had cases when the tractor did not work because of the wrong coal?
I’ll be trying different sizes later.
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I didn’t get to experience the tuyeres today. Started looking for holes with a vacuum cleaner, already found 2.
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I would attempt to just reduce at the end of the steel at the tuyere, so you wouldn’t have to modify your firebrick. Maybe you could find a pipe that nests perfectly to the interior for testing purposes.
Edit: I used a 20mm inner diameter silicon carbide tube for my 4.3L engine when I was testing that and it made potent gas just at idle.
I believe for my 5.7L V8 truck I sized a 35mm tuyere size but I was considering a water bath tuyere to produce steam.
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My tuyere is interchangeable, tube in tube, can be changed easily.
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