I think there is a conserved effort to sabotage you postal service
Force people to use private companies at a higher cost
Our mail service used to make money
So me how they screwed that up during the pandemic when people were actually used it and needed it more
What do you think @Woodrunner Göran, I canât get the saab v4a engine to start, measured comp on 3 cylinders, 2kg 5kg 6kg, do you think there is any point in taking it apart, or is it better to try to get hold of an engine that works? It doesnât matter what kind of engine.
Just a set of gaskets costs SEK 1,500.
When not run for a while, there is often very bad readings on compression, stuck piston rings, dry cylinder walls, rust on valves, you should really try make it run some before measuring.
First of all: is there spark? Ignition wiring in right place? Breaker points always corroded after standing a while.
Next: fuel, is there fuel in carb? Or the nasty white stuff?
If fuel pump is dry it often donât pump, even with a high mounted tank.
When try to start this engines itâs better to lock the choke open (if automatic) and drizzle some fuel down the carb (better than ether, startgas)
not to much, v4 are sensitive to wet the sparkplugs ( surar ner sig pÄ svenska)
The you have to crank it some without plugs, to ârinseâ cylinders.
One thing to add, when drizzling some gasoline add a little bit of 2 stroke oil to the gasoline so it has some lubrication. Maybe a 50:1 mixture or something thin like that.
Really good advice, Cody, it does well for old engines. 
Ok, I tried it for 3-4 days, it got a little better, now it fires somtimes on 1 cylinder on both sides, and also up in the carburettor.
I started with 2 stroke gas as Cody suggested, but have now run on regular gas.
New ignition coil and cables, going to buy spark plugs, see if that makes a difference.
Jan,
More than once I have not been able to start an engine which appeared to have good spark plugs. New plugsâIt started and ran well.
You sure ignition wires are in right place? They could be shifted before you got the engine?
When 100% sure on ignition, valve clearance should be next step.
Have removed the valve cover, all valves have play. I have put the new cables according to this sketch.
Thats correct, and rotor points to nr1 when engine is on âzeroâ marking on pulley? (And both valves have play on cyl 1, )
Someone could have lifted the distributor long time ago, wich could move the positions for the cables.
Yeah, thatâs why I was a little surprised that it didnât fire at all in the first place.
But when I drove it around without spark plugs, oil came out of one cylinder, so I put gasoline in all of them, and drove the engine around, after that it had a little more life.
Also another good tip for engines that have sat for a while is use a small amount of a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf fluid just enough to cover the pistons and allow to seep onto the rings to allow it to sit for 24 hours and it will free up any stuck rings .
i normal just sit the plugs over the holes to allow the acetone to evaporate out leaving a small amount of atf the next day and spin engine to get rid .
this also works the great at seized nuts & bolts and also engines that have seized it has saved me a few times
Dave
More storage tips from Chickanic. You can skip to a little past the 12 minute mark for the tip
Iâm not familiar with Ethanol Shield, but it could just be methanol. A bottle of Heet, fuel line deicer is cheap and will absorb the water and let you get your moderately old gas to run through the engine. Two stokes are much more intolerant of older gas. I find that especially true in saws. My Stihl string trimmer will run on gas thatâs been sitting in the thing a few months though. Donât know why.
With HEET I would only use it for immediate needs, I wouldnât store the gas with it. Might absorb even more water. Itâs worked wonders for me before.
She has a video with a Tillotson carb she is rebuilding using an aftermarket skin kit.
Its not a rubber skin, but some other sort of membrane.
Shes paid to hock a kit I guess and she praises its virtues.
ButâŠ
She really does not know as much as she leads on.
She does not know how to set up a TIllotson carb, she does not have the tools to do the job and you can hear the crickets when I pointed this out.
Then you got Donyboy from Northbay will tell you how to do things too!
I am trying to remember one specific video I commented on.
I think it was something obvious about using a woodstove to heat shop as he was working on fuel systems lol
Take your internet Youtube experts with a grain of salt.
Even meâŠ
Maybe even more so because at least those other two have faces you can see and I am just a text buble in a forum.
Sheâs fixing a Walbro carb.
You know I used to be on a first name basis ( email at least ) with one of the engineers that designed that carb ( and the racing carbs⊠)
But thatâs also a broad statement not supported by facts.
I could just as easily say I invented the question marks ( I did not, but I did know that engineer, he helped me drill a better racing carb with a lot of good advice )
Thatâs mostly Iso Aclohol.
Better solvent properties than Ethanol less corrosive than methanol
Thereâs two different Sheets, one is simply HEET and one is Iso HEET. Yellow and red bottle. I use the yellow bottle HEET. Iâm not worried about fuel lines Iâm worried about it absorbing water from any air in the tank.
Use it to burn out the water and run the thing dry.
You want the ISO.
Also it safer to use not so likely to effect your health like methanol.
You could drink it but your in for an awful sick day on the morrow ( but you wonât be blind! )
Iso is used as an industrial solvent, its made from oil and its what they use in Seafoam to do most of the cleaning and moisture removal
You are right about the moister.
Try and avoid adding things that are hydrophobic.
If you are transferring fuel get a felt and funnel and you will see how well that separates water rather than trying to make an emulsion .
See that felt? ( ya I know really small filter but same problem )
AS long as the first thing that hits it is gasoline then its soaked in a petro product and no water can pass.
Get one drop of water on the felt and it won;t work because the water will continue to flow through that point.
Pilots used to use filter felts a lot.
Ask around someone has got to still sell them.
I looked up the ingredients in ISO HEET. It is 98.5% isopropyl alcohol.
I keep a selection of solvents stocked in my shed, including 100% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and Acetone. Just a heads up for folks that might have IPA lying around - you have a generic version of ISO HEET at the ready and can save a trip to the store.
The third solvent I keep stocked is xylene. It is a very aggressive solvent and while I canât find an automotive product that is 95%+ xylene, it is a common ingredient in brake cleaner along with similar hydrocarbon solvents (toluene, hexane, heptaneâŠ)
I like to know the exact chemical I am using for a job so I can replicate the process. Brand names are great and all but sometimes a company will change the formula on you without much notice or the formula is different (or name is different) in different countries. Thatâs another reason it can be helpful to know what the ingredients are. You can by IPA everywhere but ISO HEET may be specific to the US.
ISO HEET is also diesel safe. The last bit is probably some sort of an oil.
