Try an auto body supplier where Xylene is used as a slow reducer for painting.
Get is while you can…
Methyl Chloride seems to be in the sites of a lot of regulators.
Yes its dangerous to your health no lie…
Its probably the best product to remove tar from an tared up engine.
If you are careful it will soften any glued up parts but you need to wear gloves and a respirator to use it.
In some cases its the only thing that works and when its gone its gone there are no substitutes I am aware of.
A trick that will work pretty good…
Cut 10% Xylene, 10 Iso into some straight run gasoline ( non ethanol )
This won;t eat any fuel lines or harm things and it will clean like hell.
Say you know you tared up your engine and its still running.
If you have the option to swap back to gasoline do so ( and this will help to washout some tar )
The mix with the Iso and xylene will make a “fortified” gasoline your engine won;t mind and this will help get some of the crude out.
With luck you can strip down after cooling and find things are not that bad at all.
Transmission fluid ( but not Ford ) mixed with some Xylene squirt into spark plug holes after a cool down will help break up and soften tar and carbon deposits left by the tar.
Once that tar is into the rings its very hard to remove.
Change oil and you could try an engine flush to get it out.
( you will notice if your rings are sticking blow by down on power, engine smoking. Don’t run it like this try and soften up the tar and do something about it… )
Its all about time though.
If the engine is hot and running do what ever you can to get that tar out before shut down.
An oil change won;t hurt an hour running on gasoline or that mix can be the difference between an inconvenience and a real problem…
I have screwed engines with tar.
Lucky for me they were cheap disposable ones.
Still it adds up if you just run them to destruction.
One of them is an anti oxidant.
Off the top of my head I can’t tell you what it is but I remember its in there and its purpose is to keep the gas from turning to varnish.
There other stuff in there to help keep all the different compounds form settling out and your right about the Distillates.
They don’t do anything, they just put enough in to dilute the chemicals so you aren’t so likely to mismanage how much you use.
There was a company in Montreal I think they were called ACCER Chemicals.
They made a product called CV-100 and added it to gasoline as a fuel enhancer and stabilizer cleaner.
It really worked ( gas and diesel ) but it was so toxic you were scared to get this concetrate on your skin.
You mixed it 1000 : 1, so it was best to put in an underground tank.
SO what ever is in those little bottles is probably mixed that way with very little active ingredient for a reason.
Only proof I can find it ever existed.
It would clean so well all your filters would clog until everything from the fuel tanks and to the carb was clean.
And it cleaned so well you took apart engines that looked like someone had already worked on them.
Probably the deadly stuff known to man it…
CV-100 had a green dye in it.
I can remember spilling some on my hands once and I could not wash it off for days.
Jan i am really late to this discussion. But the one thing i would say is be sure to monitor the temperature of the engine if you are running it a lower RPM than the manufacturer designed it for. It is counter intuitive. I have seen people put a chevy V8 into an old tractor and fifure they can run them slow like the old tractor engines at about 1800 RPM. But the cooling system isn’t designed for long term heavy loads af those slow speeds so the motor over heats. The solution is often a second gearbox to get the motor back to the RPM that it was designed to run at with a heavy load. IIRC some people have redone the water pump drive to increase the speed of the water flow in the engine. I just happened to be at a tractor show when someone destroyed their recently finished V8 tractor it was tragic to see so much work end badly for lack of cooling.
Hi Jan, im going to look this week if i have some stuff that will work to connect that.
I believe that part that fits the incoming axle on the v4 gearbox could be used, maybe turned down some to fit a cardan-flange for the m40 gearbox?
A rubber-coupler could be good ofcourse, so no need to line it up perfectly?
Hi Jan, it’s a good way to do it, but i don’t think it will hold up. Maybe if you use a piece of wide hydraulic tubing (steel reinforced, pressure, not return line) with very sturdy clamps.
Remember even if the torque is’nt as big, there are “start momentum” and uneven load, like in a damper in a clutch hub.
Dont worry about welding in the Saab axle, i got more, free
Could you weld in that loose piece that fits the splines(the free-wheel clutch)? Gives some play, and possibility to move some back and forth?
One way should be using a hardy disc (hardyskiva) from volvo 740 for example, if there are Volvo-kids (18 year old boys driving their volvos sideways, playing loud music) around where you live they use to have lot’s of that stuff laying around.
Should be pretty easy lining up one of these, using gearbox or prop-shaft parts.
I’m kind of dumb about this mechanical stuff, but do you need another gearbox to slow your 2000 +/- RPM engine to tractor PTO speed? (500 +/- RPM?) or is that not a standard-ish PTO generator setup with step-up gearing?
No, you are right, the alternator needs 1500rpm, I have an old volvo gearbox to rev up the tractor pto.
But wanted to keep the gearbox in case it doesn’t work with the saab engine and gas.
