inspiring idea’s …
this one has also some nice gismo’s
The water seal on the top lid
the pre heating coil for the intake air
Hi Koen, Why the grate shaking? I’ve never had bridging or ash buildup to an extent that I’ve had to worry about it. I have found that for stationary the hose link between the exhaust and the gasifier introduces enough vibration to do the trick. I know you are iffy on the Exhaust recirc, but loosely attaching a rubber hose from engine to gasifier frame should do the trick. To much? add more slack by moving the engine a little closer. Too little? tighten it by moving it further away. Somewhere on Fluidyne’s amazing site there is mention of doing this. I’m always concerned about introducing too much complexity into something that is supposed to be simple. Having said that I do think I will try the bottom fed method come spring. I will Still be using a wider unit then yours and with a cast refractive cement liner and air nozzle similar to Jeff Davis’ unit on the Yahoo site. The nozzles have always been my weak spot… -33 degrees Celsius this morning so no work gets done outside til the sun gets the temperature up to a respectable -25 celsius; I’m soft that way.
David Baillie
Hi David,
The grate shaking is meant to be a learning exercise for me.
The narrow diameter i am using now does however created the need for movement in the charcoal.
Sure i could try copy the advise from fluidyne, it will work, (connecting rod from engine to gasifier)
but how much would i learn ? 
I want to try to find an adaptable solution that alsoo works for others or for my future builds.
(Feedstock moving and grate shaking in one)
Based on the drawing i posted earlier, i am searching for the parts.
Also trying to find more data on so called smog blowers for us cars. Any advice where can find info?
(Displacement, rpm, presure)
They excist also in electric form, i think could be very well suited as gas suction to
Warm greetings from Thailand.
Sometimes have the time to make progress with my hands…
The parts for the bike came, new piston, rings, seals, new bore in the cylinder…
Checking for timing adjustment, but that’s going to be hopeless…
Will fit another sprocket on the rear, 52 t against 40, to have more torque on the wheel.
Have fitted the pre-heating coil on the gasifier, waiting for the drip…
Started with the first steps in fitting a gasifier on the side car…
No time for getting bored…
The challenge is to design and to build with minimal tools and resources… ( only have a few hand tools )
Maybe a good idea to make the coil inside ?
Thailand makes many things in stainless, can find that on any corner of the street…
3/4 tubing 20’ = 7$
KVL, before putting the coil inside, you might wrap the outside coil with insulation, or have you already tried that? I like to wrap my insulation with aluminium foil or the thin aluminium sheet that I get from our local newspaper print shop, and then tie it with wire. (Lasts longer, and stays dry.)
Hi Ray,
The small size 5" pipe has the coil on the outside as shown in the picture above ( strange that that picture lays horizontal… )
The insulation is a good idea, will do that.
Having been bussy with special testing… using the gasifier as a pure CO2 eater … 50% oxygen-50% Co2 + Charcoal of course…
worked well, waiting for equipment to measure …
The coil inside is an idea i came up with, might be not so bad.
Using that same idea on my first steps for designing the “raw wood” gasifier… will post a first drawing tomorrow.
All about using the idea’s i did read about …
Hi Koen
If you place the coil inside, maybe cover it in fire clay, protect the tube , still get the pree heating required and also helps insulate the fire tube!
Just a thought ?
Thanks
Patrick
Hi Patrick,
That could be indeed the best way to do it. I will give it a try.
putting the picture straight this time…
coil on the outside, piping towards the nozzle at the bottom
Today something was pointed out to me and it might be true…
The experience of getting water in our gas can occur by the excess of air getting in our gasifier…
If the Hydrogen and the methane are partially combusted after the reduction zone, because to much air can pass trough the coal bed,
When H burns it yields water ( 2H + O = 2H2O ) 9 times its own weight in water, which will take the same volume as Hydrogen if the temperature is above 100°C.
When CH4 burns it also yields water and Carbon dioxide ( CH4 + 4O = 2H2O + 2CO2 ) 2,75 Times its weight in water + 2,25 times its weight in CO2.
This might be helpful for solving some issues
As i understand that is a problem mainly if charcoal size is to big becouse some oxigen finds its way around big bits of charcoal in the reaction zone.
Hi Kristijan,
Also if the amount of air passing trough a to small bed of glowing charcoal ( reduction zone ) or to low temperature in the system, or an airleak just after the reduction zone…
Thats why i prefer small nozzle size and more vacuum. ( higher nozzle speed and higher temperatures )
Also why i want to use a “shaker” for continuous keeping the density of the charcoal bed.
The air-combusted or not, tends to “chunnel” itself trough the feedstock with an tendency to seek the outer walls ( updraft mainly)
Preheating the air to highest possible temperature also makes a higher airspeed and a faster decomposing of the charcoal.
My tests revealed that i can balance the amount of CO2 to regulate the temperature and obtaining a constant quality of syngas.
I want to use the gasifier as a “carbon dioxide killer” specially if you put him in a system with a biodigester… ( 50% CH4 and 50% CO2 )
Using the good old gasifier technology should be promoted not discouraged…
Reading now about an Viking -gasifier, where basically a pyrolysing unit is making the char for the charcoal gasifier…
Might be an idea for my “community” gasifier ?
Any how, in my humble opinion, the temperature is playing a big part in good gasificating.
Keeping it in a range between 1200 and 1300°C is my target.
Now to bring that in a real world situation , thats the challenge
Almost ready for DOW … 
engine overhauled, chain and sprockets to a better gearing… drives wonderful on gasoline…
Preparing the water drip now and then…
SWEM…
I like it Koen. How far do you think you can drive per fill?
Hi Bill,
I think about 30-40 miles per fill… i reduced the gearing from 14T-36T to 14T-52T, so the engine runs easier with less effort.
I hope to try that soon
Hi Koen,
I sent you an email via DOW but not sure if you received it?
Hi Bill,
Yes i did and did sent you a reply also…
