You found it! Can"t have any air going into a opening that big and into the hopper area. you will not have much air coming out of the nozzles. Good find, fix it and you will be make good gases again. Number one problem in most gasifiers a air leak found that is causing the problem. Good job Jan on findind it. The hopper must be air tight for the nozzles to work properly.
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It is such a nice feeling when things you wonder about what the problem is turns out to be a super easy fix 
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I donât know if this is the cause of the tar though, in any case I was happy to see how much water and tar it was in the tank, last year I had none, so my drum seems to be working.
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Was driving out a load of birch wood with the ferret, tried the tractor first, but it takes up too much space, and hopeless to reverse.
Do you have any good suggestions on how to doing drive to the cart, I have bought 2 hydraulic motors?
I usually get tar in it when I start riding on wood in the fall, could the reason be that I have a 65mm throttle, instead of 55mm, as it should be?
Itâs strange that it works without getting tar when Iâve been driving for a while.
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What is that below the axle? Just talking out my behind but if your hydraulic pump on the iller has enough capacity and your purchased hydralic motors are sufficient I think you could rework the axle shafts on both front tires by adding bearings and fabbing a shaft that would extend through the axle with a gear and chain to the new motors or direct couple the motors to the axle shaft. Hoses that long may be a little pricey.
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Yes. I think you could fab a way to install a race and wheel bearing on the front and back of that perpendicular piece. When you say engine you are still talking about hydraulic motors right?
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Yes. I was thinking the shaft would be through the housing and the sprocket outboard of that but basically the same. The sprockets used in this picture would be a challenge to fab unless it was already commercially available but this is a very clean set up.
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I guess you have ordinary trailer bearings with the axles at a standstill. Maybe it would be possible to weld kind of a donut to the rim - and grind/make it a sprocket with inner teeth? That would eliminate any modifacation to the axles.
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Yes, thatâs an idea, it would be quite protected too.
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If it wasnât for the belts, this is a simple solution
The rollers can be lifted for transport/faster drive on road.
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Thatâs why I bought the motors, but need to rebuild the cart to make it work I think.
The attachment for the bogie is above, not in the middle as on these carts, but needs to be able to disconnect the hydraulic motor.
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I donât know the conditions in your forest but I imagine it is not very often you need to have a driven rear boggie so speed is not of the essence.
What about attaching a starter ring gear to the front wheels and have the hydraulic motor sitting on the steel beam for the boggie?
Hopefully it will not interfere with the band guides for the wheels.
Should be pretty inexpensive as well.
Edit: I donât remember if you already have the hydraulic motors but you could even use the starter motors for said ring gear to be able to only engage when it is neccessary, not sure how powerful that would be though.
Edit edit⊠Well, it is even in the previous post that you already bought the motors, silly me. 
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Ok, you mean something similar to what JO suggests, but the cogs in the other direction?
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Yes, I thought it is easy to find one of those instead of making one
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What are they selling in the picture. Is it just the drive mechanism or the whole cart? What ever, it equals 3000 US dollars and you have to throw in a mom as well. 
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Just the drive mechanism, and itâs for a trailer for atvs or very small tractors, a bit expensive I think.
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That is a =STEAL= even if you donât want the drive mechanism (which I donât think it works with heavy loads), it is more then 5k for a funeral. I would be happy to throw in a mom or two. 
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