I thought about driving again on the iller, the problem is that snow and ice build up a patch in the u-profile, and then it becomes ice against ice, and very slippery.
What do you think about screwing in a chain in every other profile, only screwing in the edges so the chain is relatively loose in the profile, maybe buy a chain that will be a little above the edge of the profile?
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Worth a try I think. Maybe start with every 4th rib or something. If it works ok you could add more.
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I think itâs genius, a loose fit chain would probably stay free from ice?
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I would try it on one or two channels before I did more. looks like if the bolts holding the chain were protruding a ways above the flat links then between that and the upright links it would probably shake the packed snow loose as you moved. A lot of work. I might weld some 5 or 6 mm flat plate on one side of the channel to extend itâs height.
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I donât want to weld in the profiles, there is hardened material in them.
I was thinking something like this, have to replace the standard screws with slightly longer ones, and buy some washers
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Thought of buying a gauge for the ferret as well, is this the right scale for the negative pressure?
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Should work. From what Iâm reading itâs capable of reading mbar.
To be useful we need two of them though. I wish there were analog guages in that price range - to be able to compare hopper vs rail vacuum with only a quick glance.
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Donât understand what you mean that I need 2?
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Two reference points, measure hopper versus rail vacuum as a differential ratio
For example if it reads -5" WC in the hopper and -15" WC in the rails thatâs a 1:3 ratio
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Recently, Goran published some pictures of pressure gauges, including an example of a differential pressure gauge - Magnehelic, well, I drew a sketch of how I will connect the differential pressure gauges. The left one will measure the âresistanceâ in the gasifier, while the other one will measure the pressure drop through the rest of the installation (cooler, filter).
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I donât know if this is true, but I think so.
I have a differential pressure gauge on the s10, and usually have it like this.
Measuring between incoming and outgoing in the filter, if ihave no resistance there, the filter is good.
If I want to know the pressure before the filter, I remove connection 1 on the meter (the meter is between the seats) then I see if there is a lot of resistance there, the hopper is tight
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Well, 3 guages would be best 
Hopper, upstream filter and downstream filter.
I guess you could do with one if you keep the load steady (throttle and rpm) while you swith connections, but you loose a lot of valuable information. For example, itâs interesting to watch how charbed resistance increases with heat. A cold charbed offer very little resistance, which will make the hopper vacuum almost equal the vacuum downstream the gasifier. Vacuum ratio during moderate load I would call the true ratio. With heavy accelleration, momentarely exceeding max power, the charbedâs resistance increases (high downstream gasifier vacuum and relativly low hopper vacuum).
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Thanks JO, ok, so with a differential pressure gauge you need 2, because you find out directly the difference between up and down in the filter.
It feels like I have a long way to go to learn about gengas, to the 75% that Bob usually talks about, had no idea that it mattered if there was a difference in vacuum between hot and cold hoppers, doesnât feel like i can do something about this?
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Jan, you already do a lot of things to keep the temps steady and keep the charbed in good shape. You adjust the load not to make tar or overheat, use the grate shaker if needed, make an effort to dry fuel - even inside the hopper, adjust fuel size to fit your driving habits and Iâm sure a lot of other things.
The guages are just there to give us a clearer picture of whatâs happening inside the system. I like to be able to see all of them at the same time - what happens if I suddeny step on or let go of the pedal, move the grate shaker or adjust my air-mix.
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Do you need to regulate how you drive to avoid tar or overheating?
Do you have shakers that you can use while driving?
The wood pieces, they will be quite similar in your machine, right?
Seems like I have a bit left to 25%.
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I try to avoid idling for too long if the gasifier isnât warmed up and not pull too hard if the charbed is loose.
Yes, I have cable under the seat which is attached to the grate shaker. My chunks are between finger and tennis ball size.
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Ok, then Iâm doing it completely wrong, we usually ride in the woods and then Iâm around rpm1500 for 1.5-2 hours usually, and drive like that from the beginning.
Do you look at the vacuum if the bed is loose, or feel it with the stick, have you ever driven so it got too hot?
If I see that my coal bed is tight I usually stick the needle down in a few places and turn on the grate, it usually helps, but mostly it works, I mostly run spruce, by the way have you tried some hoppers with spruce, would be interesting to look forward to your hesitation, if it changes?
Think I need a course in gengas, still worried now that Iâm going out with the ferret soon.
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It depends. That would be ok with the smaller Mazda gasifier, but not with the Volvo.
Yes, I do. Thatâs what the guages are for - to monitor the state of the charbed.
Of course. If thatâs too hot I donât know, but enough to have consumed a couple restrictions over the years.
Yes I have. Driving on spruce is not that different, unless itâs bulky flat slab material that is prone to bridging. I find a fradgile charbed and a lot of soot to be the major downsides - but you have excellent filtersâŠ
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Ok, so the unit on the s10 is probably too small for highway driving. yes, I made the one I have on the ferret bigger, I was thinking of changing them.
So there is so much difference in the amount of soot between spruce and birch, would perhaps saw up some birches for the gas car, could be because of that smp had 4000km between cleaning and I have 800-1000 km
Regarding the ferret, that unit is a little bigger, both the fire tube and the distances between grates and throttle and throttle and nozzles, but the throttle is 65mm, the other dimensions have that an impact for tar formation?
I think itâs strange that I got tar for 2 years when I started the unit, but after a little driving it seems to work, do you have any idea?
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Intense concentrated heat is the key, wether itâs because of a small gasifier, a well establishesd ash cone, small restriction, insulation, preheat or a combination doesnât matter, but some may be easier to realise.
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