Two weeks past and so did 450 miles on wood with the Mazda.
I think I’m starting to get hang of a few of the 75% with this new gasifier. Also it seems the gasifier is getting broken in and it’s behaving more consistent.
50 mile Sunday trip. SWEM.
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Thanks for the videos JO .
The little truck seems to running very good 
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J.O.,
Wow! Your system really works well. You, Sir, are advancing the state of the driving-on-woodgas art! Many more excellent videos to come, I hope!
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Thank you Mike. Here is one more right away.
DOWing home from work today I felt I wanted to share my thinking on turndown ratio in relation to the Imbert specs.
As you’all know by now I run 2 nozzle planes. Five pretruding nozzles 4" above the restriction and 10 more, pretty flush to the firetube, a couple of inches higher. The air inlet to those 10 nozzles can be closed separately.
Now, the total csa of the lower 5 nozzle tips is about half of what’s recomended in the chart to go with my 4" restriction, while running all 15 is 50% more.
Running only the lower 5 nozzles keeps the air velocity and thereby the heat up at idle but vacuum climbs fast when rpm increases and the nozzles start acting restrictive.
Running all 15 nozzles makes the volume of gases passing the restriction increase to the point where the actual restriction becomes the most restrictive part, not letting vacuum enough through to the hopper (nozzles) to even maintain the vacuum ratio.
So, in order to be able to squeeze yet another hp or two outof this system I think I will go for Kristijan’s initial suggestion and step up another half inch on the restriction diameter as soon as time and weather allows.
And yes, I know, this may be where I hit the full circle and the next gasifier will be a WK 
Anyway, this is today’s video.
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The cooling/preheating design of the air inlet really impressed me, as well as the rest of the system of course, it simply jaw dropping. The air inlet reminds me of how some space craft engines routes the liquid nitrogen part of the fuel through the bottom nozzle and combustion chamber to handle the massive temperatures. 
Like this:
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Success!
Finally found the right wire diagram and the right wire for the common injector power supply. What a relief. No more gasoline syphoning. Idle is steady as a rock. Runs like a dream. Life is good 
SWEM
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Congratulations
I struggled with my fuel pump power wire and finally bought an $85 wiring manual to help locate it.
So sweet when every thing works
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Thanks Michael.
At first I tried get to the wires close to the injectors, but that would have required pulling the tb and half the intake runners. Also it would have ment 4 switches or a relay.
Now I have only one switch for the common injector power supply and one for the pump, which is perfect. This truck doesn’t have a lambda, but switching on only the injector switch for siphon hybriding works excellent.
Thanks to all of you on this site driving has become as fun as when I was 18
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Hi Jo
Do you have an electrical diagram of the injection system of your mazda?
it would help me to better understand what you did to stop the injection of gasoline completely (for some time I have been looking for a mazda b2200 to convert it to charcoal gas)
Hi Thierry,
Right below the injectors close to plug B3-14 is where I put a switch.
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I am happy on your sucsess!
Ha, actualy l do a similarkind of hybriding my self. As my AFM plate has a setscrew to not alow it to ever fully close, in case the fuel pump is on while driveing on woodgas, it injects always injects the same amount of petrol as it wuld in case of 100% dino idle. This resaults in about 10% petrol 90% woodgas. Killing the fuel pump goes back to 100% wood.
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Kristijan, don’t you ever let the lambda circuit regulate your fuel when hybriding? On the other hand you may not need to with two different air inlets. Are you still using your full throttle hybrid mecanism?
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Just have to find the right black wire with yellow stripe, including engine control module connector terminal 1B. I am guessing that has multiple wires going also to the crank angle sensor, main relay, and many other places. That circuit is common to several others and has a 30 amp fuse (Labelled: Fuel Injection) on it! Just have to find the right branch in a convenient spot. Good hunting, J.O.!
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Haha, I can tell you really studied the Mazda diagram Mike Without it I would have been lost.
Funny, opening the hood it seems there are not as many wires now that I know what they all do
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Yes l still use the dual throtle mechanism.
Ha, that lambda does absolutley nothing to the fuel injected. I suspect its faulty judgeing on how well it worked for you.
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Ha, I’m not familiar to the hopper temps on this new gasifier. On the 50 mile full hopper trip back home yesterday, I knew I was running low on wood towards the end. I didn’t know I was running this low. This is what it looked like inside this morning.
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Hi Jan-Ola!
2.4.2018
At least now you you will pay attention to keep the gutter away from the upper nozzle row!
Half-burned-away plate and coaking tar coke has a clear message:
Keep the gutter one nozzle-tip circle-diameter abowe the higher nozzles.
Now you have a flat silo-bottom, but all this coke chokes off all the condensation circulation anyway!
Believe your own eyes!
This picture does not show the silo edges, so I may be wrong?
The restriction ring is reliving the foundery processes once again…
Hi Max,
I do collect about 2 litres of hopper juice for every 80 km full hopper of wood, which is as dry as it gets from start. I have to have done something right.
Are you saying gutter overflow created the tary crust “coke” build up under my funnel fingers? Would there be no crust there if the gutter didn’t overflow?
Or are you suggesting the internal cirkulation return loop should enter higher in the funnel? Two overlapping funnels with spacers inbetween was actually what I had in mind at first, but it didn’t happen.
You’re right, when coke finally chokes the cirkulation I will collect less condensation until I clean up. During summer I’ll have to lift the silo/funnel out anyway to do that. Maybe then I’ll modify.
This I don’t understand. What plate? Nothing is burned away that I know of, except wood. I just added some char and have been running several trips since.
Yes, I hope it’ll never see daylight again
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HI, jan-Ola!
3.4.2018
The nearby edge seems irregularily burnt (or cut).
I do not blame any condense splash for making coke; coke is developing always a bit upward above the nozzle level. But knowing it, makes it a logic conclusion to avoid putting anything like circulation holes from a condensation mantel within reach of this well known phenomenon!
Keeping on a “safe level” in the periphery is no sacrifice for condense production; instead keeping the flow going is beneficial in the long run.
And less reboiling.
You will find out.
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Big flakes falling. Will this never end? Still almost 2 feet on the ground and now another couple of inches. Last year I was already finished cutting and splitting by now and I could watch the firewood dry. This year my pile is still buried deep under the snow. Funny how little complaining helps.
Meanwhile - not much. DOWing back and forth to work. A few minor hickups though.
Remember my Rabbit was fed an unusual brass throttle plate diet once? The Mazda was munching on rag the other day. I copied Wayne’s trick to protect the IAC but my throttle body didn’t want to keep the rag.
When out driving I suddenly heard terrible valve hammering and all sorts of doomsday thoughts came to my mind. One of them involved tar. I stopped on the roadside and put my finger inside the tennisball puffer valve, but felt nothing but fine soot. Anyway tar should’t affect a hot engine. A couple of minutes past while thinking but since wife and dogs had started barking at me I decided to tick-tack along. After a mile or two the sound was gone. The engine had a smooth idle during the mishap, and still has,so I guess I’m fine.
Friday evening I picked up youngest daughter and her boyfriend at the train station in town. It was his first ride ever on woodgas. On our way home my hopper kept sneezing and offsetting the lid due to a bad seal. I stopped several times to get out and correct the lid. I certainly failed to make a good impression.
My frying pan hopper lid has a small flange and I used only some silicone for a seal. However it seems the silicone doesn’t like hopper condensation. A week or two and it’s feels like jelly and loosens from the lid flange.
Yesterday I went through lots of drawers and boxes and found a rubber seal that fits perfectly on my lid flange. I have no idea what it’s for, but going to work and back today it sealed just fine. No sneezing and no escaping smoke at shutdown (for now).
Well, just a short report from a white slushy Sweden. Thanks for listening.
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