Hi Jo
congratulations on your construction
could not you install an interrupter or PWM in series with the supply pump?
Thierry
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Good morning JO
Great job on your build.
When I was running a TBI ( 91 dakota ) I would kill the injectors with two switchs in the cab.
Edit . The two switches were wired into the injector circuit where they inter the throttle body .
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Thank you!
The problem is some fuel is delivered by vacuum even with the fuelpump completly shut off.
Thank you!
The Mazda is an ordinary mpfi, but if I’m able to find the right wires that would of course be doable anyway.
I will do some experimenting and some time in the thinking chair before I decide. In the meantime I’ll just let it dribble. I get the feeling it’s not much and probably only when idling. The needle hasn’t moved yet. Actually quite convinient when cranking up after sitting for a while. I get a little bit of hybriding to start off with.
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I shouldn’t bother you all, but I can’t sleep, which means I’m now in my thinking-bed.
I reread @SteveUnruh’s post about intake vacuum lifting open the fuel pressure regulator orfice causing the fuel to be siphon sucked backwards. Well, if that’s happening when DOWing, it should happen when motor-braking on gasoline as well. Old carbed engines used to puff and spatter when lifting your foot off the pedal. Mpfi engines don’t. They shut down completly.
It suddenly occured to me…
…what if the membrane is broken? Ever since I bought the Mazda truck it’s been running ruff on gasoline. Almost impossible to crank up cold without using the electric coolant heater. Smelly and occational black smoke. On woodgas it runs clean and like a sawing machine, unless idling.
A few months back my first guess was the MAF sensor, but what if fuel is sucked into the intake by the pressure regulator vacuum hose. That would explain my siphoning symptomes.
Tomorrow I’ll check if the hose gets wet inside.
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That sounds reasonable. . . . . Go to sleep now.
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It’s tomorrow now. Did you find anything interesting?
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Actually no. No fuel leaking into the pressure regulator vacuum hose but on the other hand no difference in running with or without vacuum on the regulator. Maybe the spring loaded valve is stuck. I’ll have to do some more investigation in the weekend.
Luckily it runs just fine on woodgas. Cranking up going to work in the mornings I don’t even bother switching the fuelpump on. It cranks up just fine on the stored woodgas. Not even pushing is needed 
Gasoline systems are not to be trusted. Woodgas is bulletproof 
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Went for a Sunday trip and stopped for a walkaround.
I haven’t done anything to the syphoning problem yet, but I’m at 250 DOW miles and I’ve wasted only about a gallon, so I’m not too worried.
At the end of the video I talk about the level of char in the hopper juice can. Of course I meant to say tar
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Thanks for the video JO . You did a very nice job !!
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Very well done Jo. You are a true Craftsman. No when are you going to finish mine?
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Very nice Jan!
How cold does it get there in the Winter? I ask because it seems to be cold enough to run the wood gas to the condensate first so it’s easy to drain. I’m a bit confused about draining the hay filter. One can’t get enough heat from the wood gas to keep that liquid warm yet you have a small outlet to drain the hay filter. Is there just not enough liquid from the hay filter to worry about in Winter months because the dew point is already low enough at that point? Is there a space at the bottom of the hay filter to allow for frozen liquids so it doesn’t freeze the hay in there?
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Thank you all for your kind comments.
@rustyold36 Jim, I’ve never owned a V8 and wouldn’t know which engine to connect.
@BillSchiller Temps vary a lot here with the Gulf stream whisking its tail at us. We usually get a couple of weeks in Jan-Feb with negative 25-30 C. Colder than that is rare unless you live further north. Also a week of thaw now and then during wintertime is normal. This winter is special because we haven’t had s single day of thaw since before Christmas. Also more snow than usual and temps around minus 10-15 C most of the time.
You’re right, in wintertime I could probably run for several months with a lump of ice in the hayfilter bottom without doing any harm. The amount collected is small.
Gas enters in an upside down plastic bucket with holes drilled in it. The barrel could hold several gallons before reaching the inlet. However I try to empty and wash down the hay as soon as temp allows.
The reason for the small valve is I was afraid a bigger one would crack more easily. Also I suspected a small one would get plugged with soot. More than 10,000 miles past and none of it happened
I actually never thought about how frosty hay affects the filtering. No signs of plugging though.
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J.O. : So many good ideas on this build, Such excellent workmanship and planning! 
Where to start? The Rabbit will be missed 
, long live the Mazda B2600!
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Beautiful work as usual J.O.!
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Thanks again guys. Watch out or my head will swell, no hat will fit and I’ll freeze my ears off 
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Hi, Jan-Ola!
16.3.2018
Congratulations for an elegant and promising construction!
Just as passing Idus in March, I think it is appropriate to align your outlook towards Handy Andy; he also built a good system on his pickup, but not long afterwards it fell apart, as he ignored what happened below the bed!
Now a looming breaking is seen on the video between
6:17 / 10:28 and
6:42 / 10:28 … A real salt-water basin! Without drain…
So, you better buy ortho-phosphoric acid and apply in two rounds, washing thoroughly the “skin” in between. Wait 2 - 3 days in between the treatments and afterwards!
Then a two-component “icebraker” epoxy, later covered by a bitumen layer coating…
When the spring gets warm.
To prolong the valuable acheivement!
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Thank you Max, and you’re absolutely right. These trucks are known to snap off on the middle. The knees of the frame right behind the cab is where all the nasty mess collects and why there aren’t many left on the roads. This is why I was surpriced to find this one still as healthy as it is. All the material thickness is actually still left and the rust is just on the surface.
As soon as weather allows I will get to it. We still have 3-4 ft of snow and -18C (-2F) this morning.
Hi, Jan - Ola!
I am glad, that this IDUS in March note did not aggrevate the situation further!
Max
Hi, Jan - Ola!
17.3.2018
“Icebraker epoxy” is no joke!
Icebrakers in the Baltic- and northern Ice-sea have this hull treatment
about once a year, done at the end of an ice breaking season!
So this is saltresistant as good as any “landbased” treatments.
On hulls the treatment starts with a thorough sandblasting, to reveal the clean
steel.
Cars need more than that; rubber or “plastic” spray-skirts, closed forward and upward, open backward for ventilation. Thats the way to avoid salt sprays to find their way in through “causal” ventilation holes!
Still all low points need drainage holes…
Just some general thoughts for everyone…
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Hi joe yes i see you live in salt belt too, lucky too find one of them little trucks with solid frame, the toyotas up here in my state rust out in frames quite common if driveing in salt daily with out treatment, even if one just paints the frame good and heavy coat, or oil the frames and wheel wells once year before winter.Real nice complete vidio walk around.you may need few more cooling tubes in summer too help condence out the gas, as i am sure you know. Very neat looking build.
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