Not sure what you mean with games but l sure was not joking. I am sure Chris’s system works perfectly and lt is one of the best looking throtling systemis l have ever seen, but l can not use it on my build. l have made changes to suit my desires. If those changes are possible, great. If not, good old manual control.
Like l sayd, the original throtle has to stay on so no double throtle.
The skech is a schematic, not a blueprint!
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Here is a pic of the whole engine compartment
a soup plate comes in, but then there is no more space for valves and mixer
one possibility is to put the automixer on the right and connect it by a long rod to the left side where the throtle is. both automixer and the other assembly culdnt be on the right becouse there are hydraulic pipes on the right that l do not intend to touch. The rod shuld be about 50cm long and that might couse some problems becouse the vibration will cause it to change buterfly position.
So right now looks like a dead end for the automixer, unless l try the long shaft.
Kristijan,
I’m not telling you what to to but if it was up to me I would skip the automixer for now and keep it simple until you have driven, worked bugs out of and got a feel for the main system. After all I think you will discover you hardly need to change the air setting at all when driving.
Also if I shut down for only 15 min or less it starts right back up on old woodgas with the same air setting I left it with. It does when sitting for 2 hours too, but then I have to flip the gasoline switch for a few seconds after 200 m driving.
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This is the part that sends the vacuum signal to the double sided vacuum chamber you started to build. That vacuum chamber us just one part of the auto mixer… it controls the engine air inlet valve and doesn’t really have to be that close to the wood gas twin throat, twin flap mixing carb. Hope that makes sense.
Yes the vacuum chamber has to be mounted horizontal… it has to be as free moving as possible.
JO,
You are right. I will skip it for now. And we have a saying, simple is always the best.
The main reason l wanted automixed gas is l wanted to make it wife friendly. But it looks like she will have to learn to drive agen 
Just finishing the gasifier platform, hope it will run soon!
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Hi, Kristijan!
25.8.2016
If you have gone through this article with over 200 writings and videos, you would have no difficulties in handling the principals of this system!
Kristijan!
25.8.2016
The whole picture of the motor room shows plenty of room on the car’s left side of the motor!
That is a useful place for the membrane and and the air pressure balance controlling flap.
The twin-throat ex-carburettor fits between the current throttlebody and the airfilter…
If you go through Chris’ article you get enough knowledge to do this without any backdraws
in using two fuels.
Hi KristijanK
Your engine appears to be a belt driven dual overhead cam version. The FIRST step for timing belt service would be to remove the air cleaner box for access.
Do this. Then reassess your available space then that could accommodate a “soup-plate” two single action diaphragms assembly; or a thicker “soup-plate(s)” dual action diaphragm. These could bell crank transfer force/movements. NEED to be engine mounted to follow the engine’s torque movements.
A revised air cleaner box CAN BE horizontal; and thinner, and sandwiched in. Air tube can be even rectangular in cross section. Also engine mounted to eliminate the flex coupling. (a bit, hiss, flow noisier - but no matter,eh?)
Pictures show no evidence of any sensors to the current air cleaner box?
Regards
Steve Unruh
Hi Steve
Why didnt l think of that? With that big thing out of te way l will have plenty of room. + the belts shuld be replaced soon anyway.
l didnt quite understand… The diafragm needs to be mounted on te engine?
This car has very litle sensors (luckly) althugh timing advice might be hard to do.
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The diaphragm can be mounted anywhere… it gets its vacuum signal from the twin throat mixing carb and controls the engine air inlet valve…
Hi, Kristijan!
27.8.2016
Steven’s remarks about the airfilter and access to the timing belt are excellent, and well timed!
The only gasmixer component that need to be reasonably near the current throttlebody, is the double-throat twinflap, former carburettor.
Its syncronized flaps (may be on the same shaft or in tandem).
In tandem = individual parallel shafts with cranks, connected with a connecting rod.
Like the pulling wheels on a locomotive.
Equal closing and open angles. Equal throat diameters.
Connecting route to the current throttle body needs to hold up for vacuum! Needs reinforcement if the double-throat mixer is connected in series with the common throttlebody.
The mechanical operation of the two components in series needs attention.
If room allows near the intake manifold, a parallel feed is to be preferred.
Is there room to make the woodgas-mix intake in the other end of the intake-manifold?
That would make it much easier. On the left side. (car’s left side)
Unfortunaly no.
The two flap carburator is allso a tricky thing to obtain. As is all the other rusty gold… There is not one junkjard it the whole contry. The goverment did an exelent job at puting them away. They astabliched a company that buys all the scrap metals for a reasonable price, so junkjards are history. I am so jelous of you guys
The final look of the asembly;
,
the filter gets instaled tomorow, the hoses and manual air mixer too. The automixer will have to wait for my next vaycation (this one ends on Monday
)
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Does the rear hatch open at a wide arc so that the box cannot be closer to the bumper? Will you have to mount your license plate on the back of the box sometime? You are good at hiding everything!
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In English some say pO-TAY-TO. Some say pah-Tah-TO. Same vegetable root.
Yes for a good mechanically rod connected control assemble you will want it mounted to the engine to couple/share all engine/trans torque movements.
I once saw an older fullsized Mercury V8 car with old soft motor mounts being engine hand revved by the mechanic from under the hood. Saw the old, worn, loose steering column mounted shift lever torqued, move down from Park to Reverse. As the car roared past me in reverse being chased by the mechanic I was able to reach in and yank all four right side spark plug wires. Sigh. I missed the ignition coil wire. I still have the fan scar on that hand.
Remote mounted using a housing sheathed cable system would work too. (then you get to fight housing cable drag on your low force system)
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi Kristijan
great design
discreet aerodynamic enough, not too bulky
I really like.
what autonomy you plan to achieve with this gasifier?
Wow! Classy ride. Gas in box. Nice work.
Watch out for road bumps.
Don l culdnt go closer to the bumper becouse of the lengh of the towbar and the trailer clamp. And allso the back door wuldnt open.
There will be lights and a third licence plate on the back.
Steve the cable might be a good idea if l put a biger diafragm in…
Thierry the hopper holds about 10 kg of hardwood so in theory about 50km range. Testing will tell more
The plan is to make it look factory made as possible (becouse of our blue angels). I was looking up to this https://www.google.si/search?q=smog+pump&client=ms-android-samsung&hl=sl-SI&source=lnms&prmd=ivn&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2ku2P-uDOAhWLLMAKHTbKAl4Q_AUICCgB&biw=320&bih=508&dpr=1.5#hl=sl-SI&tbm=isch&q=thule+easybase&imgrc=grQ0Fe0BQbsbGM%3A
I culd just buy the platform but it is rated at 45kg max weight, my system weighs about 65kg so the bumps wuld realy be a problem. This one l tested jumping on it and it seems to hold well. Snow will be a problem thugh… front whhel drive…
Ill print some stickers with instructions and logos to give the homemade platform some factory stile. But shhh
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Hi Krisijan , looks fantastic and nice and clean too , I understand about the stealthiness of the build , but wouldn’t a jockey wheel on or under the back help support it as your a little over the rated weight would help stop some of the flexing on those bumps .
Cheers Dave