After this one I think Wayne’s super power he must be a wizard, the pvc whisperer
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I assume the same thing. When I was bench testing the 2011 GMC it was an absolute headache running it through the plastic inner fender to the engine, I had maybe 2 inches of space from any problem area.
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Hey Marcus .
Make sure you can disable the pvc if needed .
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Thats another thing, I see why you have so many furnco’s in that little area now. I have gone back and looked at every detail of your truck and the wilbur smith build front to back inside and out all pictures all videos and im still not sure how you made that work in that tiny space
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You better review the Wilbur/Smith build or Wayne’s 95 V-10 build again. We know he did it some how with all the gas lines under the hood.
Bob
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Oofta, first gas line is done. Lost some hair, skin, plastic and sheet metal in the process buts its in
Wayne, my hat is off to you sir you said you managed the Wilbur smith truck without cutting metal. This I could not do, not even close. Well done
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Call it “pre-emptive rust loss removal”
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Hello Marcus, you really have a lot of pipes on the engine, but definitely a good job. Have you tried to bend these pipes, I have done this many times, I heat it with a hot air heater and it curves nicely, of course more gentle bends.
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Yes the air pipes are bent pvc using a pipe heater, I tryed to bend pipes for the gas lines but I could not bend nearly tight enough I just kept kinking the pipes and wasting material. Now if a guy could have found a supply of 2" *90 sweeps ( not street ell, but actual long sweeps) I believe a guy could cut what is needed out of there and make it a much smoother run. I tried throughout the whole build to keep as few sharp bends as possible what for resistance to flow and possible spots to clog up with soot, but it is so tight in this engine bay there was no way to avoid tight bends going up over around and down so many times so quickly in such a short run of pipe. this is also sch40, which tends to distort when bent, but even like over the gas tank which is a bent line it may be squished flat minorly, but the capacity of the line should be the same and still flow fine. And every last pipe is removable to keep maintainability
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Check the conduit section. They do smooth radius 90s.
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There hasn’t been any conduit available around here for close to 6 months, not one piece of it at any hardware store. One of those "supply chain "issues 
even called around to the industrial suppliers and they said 3-4 months eta. What kind of gasifier builder woodgas operator wants to sit around and wait on parts like that??? Had to run with what I could get my hands on and that was mighty painful…over 300$ in pipe and fittings
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I don’t blame you.
Maybe next time you need to, set up a jig and fill the pipe with sand. Something you can reproduce since you have dual input. Back when I made PVC pipe bows I made an Easy Bake Oven with foam insulation and aluminum flashing sheet with one of those hot incubator bulbs.
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I have done that before to make exhaust pipe at home thats " mandrel bent" not perfect and very time consuming but it works great
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I bought a roll of this for a gasifier I haven’t gotten to yet. Bought it a year ago I’m embarrassed to say. I not sure it it could make sharper bends.
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The 2" stuff I bought for the Mazda couldn’t bend too tight. It was a 180 degree bends at a 4 foot radius with 6 feet of flex exhaust. It was as tight as I could get it with every segment helping out.
I’m probably gonna reuse it for the '76 in a non critical spot.
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Hi Marcus, make sure you water the hay down in the hopper before starting up on wood gas to get the fines out of the hay. Heck just leave the hopper lid off for awhile the poring rain will take care of it for you. And drain the extra water out using the new 2" drain.
Yup put some nice charcoal in up pass the nozzles and some rocket fuel mix in for the quick start up.
Bob
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Thanks Marcus for another great video.
Looking forward to you firing up.
Later once you get the truck up and running you may want to add a rheostat switch to the fuel pump wiring . I have tried just an off and on switch but keep coming back to the small rheostat . ( dimmer rheostat for dash lights from a junk vehicle ) On my v-10 I have both the on and off switch and the rheostat but I always use the rheostat because it makes the transition from gasoline to wood much more smooth .
Also after you learn the system you can hybrid drive by letting the computer handle adding a little gasoline if needed . Works best when you are on the open road and are able to accelerate or decelerate very slowly.
After running woodgas and parking the truck if you try to start back up on gasoline make sure you turn the ignition switch on and off twice or you may get a big kick back on the starter . Turning the key off and on is not necessary if starting back up on wood .
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Marcus, don’t you feel a little bit guilty laying on that nice padded creeper over the engine bay while the rest of us have to bend our knees backward on a step stool with the radiator cap in our belly button?
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