Yes the v10 is set from the factory with certain perameters of what timing is allowable under what conditions (throttle position, air temp, rpm, load percentage, clutch/ transmission signals as well) so there is no distributor. V10 is a coil design fired individually from the pcm, no manual input that can be done. But parameters can be changed inside the computer of what is allowable, but there are not many peoole who have played with this on a dodge ram v10, viper v10 a different story. Thats one reason I am led to believe the ls chevy engine will be a top perforner on woodgas as it has a huge aftermarket following for tune ability
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I hardly remember because one of my other readouts broke and I robbed the one off of that thermocouple to fix it.
but if I remember right I never got it over 800f that was with the grate running at about 1400f.
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Hey JO
Kinda the same with my two trucks . The v-10 will warm up and be running good in a couple of miles . The dakota usually hits normal operating temp at 10- 15 miles .
My V-10 is really handy working here on the farm but if I put them both out on the big road the dakota will run circles around the V-10
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good video. I donāt think I will ever build a gasifier without a clean out access port in the crossover
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I guess after testing fuel size maybe you should find a spare rotor to cut a bigger choke plate. Maybe do .25" or .50" increments.
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That is by far the best feature, the toyota definitely needs one!
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Marcus,
Just an idear Iāve been kicking around.
The throttle position sensor (tps) on your truck seems to be causing the ignition timing to retard. Perhaps you can use this to your advantage.
The tps on my truck is actually a potentiometer (pot). If this is true with your truck, perhaps you could mount a pot somewhere on your dash and be able to control timing with it. This might be a little easier than reprogramming the ecm.
Rindert
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Rindert thatās really slick. Might be something to check with a meter.
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Marcus Jakob welded some small round bar on the inside of his rails to keep them from sagging at the center post and the pipes were braced on the out side corner posts. With the silcone high temp hose it might not sag. But with three pins on each of the pipes it will not sag at all on the center post.
Bob
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I use the silicone on the center post and never had any problem with them.
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Marcus, did you feel like you were a mixer on a high proportion of gas? If so, the large flow of air only traveled down the hot pipe and blew all the fine coal out of the hot pipe and grate, which glowed and gassed further down the system, as a lot of oxygen from the hot zone got through between the larger pieces. Well, here again I see a solution in the greater expansion of pyrolysis gases and water vapor, which replaces a large part of the air in the hot pipe. The WK has the air openings covered with a screen directed downwards, I donāt think this is the best with a large flow, the nozzles directed slightly upwards and placed just below the top of the heating pipe (just like the JO at Volvo) probably work better, but thatās another one theory. 
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Hi Tone,
Not theory, but observed practices is the significant differences between the Imbert derived and the FEMA derived with the internal air/gases flows velocities.
Out of peripheral (outer edge air nozzles) the one wants to be velocity jetted out away from the wall quickly merging in an assumed planar active virtual barrier.
Of course, in usages this plane is distorted pulled down by drawn flows. A trumpet bell shaped thenā¦
Think of an outward waterfall pushing outward with a made gap under its upper underside. Then very turbulent confusion blending farther down.
Now the WK and a few others like Stephen Abbadessaās with his 30 and 60 degree DOWNWARD angled peripheral air nozzles.
In a water flow comparison, it is a natural-made or manmade smooth sinuous chute where the water flow never separates. Volumn flows greatly. With minimal turbulence.
The separate air nozzle flows overlapping blending, with distance.
The relationships of temperature-time-turbulence then very biased to needing extreme temperatures and time to balance out the much less turbulences.
I do agree with your assessment on Marcusās problem.
I think the fix will be in the grating to better hold the made char in place.
Ha! My theory. Easy when you are not the one having to do the fixing.
Steve unruh
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Marcus when I dumped my char/ash out I always screen off the small charcoal from the ashes. If I see charcoal bigger then pop corn or a 1" in size, at about 1/3 to 2/3 of ashes then this seems to be about right for slipping charcoal when pulling hard on my gasifier. You said you only have a 1" of spacing between the bottom housing and the grate. This is the same as my gasifier. Your holes in the grate are bigger. I think this is better then my grate. This gives you better flow, but with that big V-10 you can over pull the gasifier much easier.
The restriction open at around 6" will cause a higher flow at that point for over pulling. My gasifier is using a 7 1/2" opening 5.2 Liter engine this is a slower flow rate at this point. It looks like you are making good gases. I would open the restriction up more to see if this improves your performance alittle. Keeping your differenial hopper and rails vaccums down way driving will save on fuel aways. The high vaccum will burn more fuel period. Also the harder the wood makes a big difference too. But you know this already. This build of yours is wonderful and a beautiful work of metal art going down the road. You are doing it again with wood burn truck number two, BBB That Wood And SWEM, Have Wood Will Travel To Work, DOW.
Bob
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It makes great gas and performs perfect under 45mph, this would be perfect for a around town farm truck as it sits. Ill need to make a bigger choke plate to reduce that pull velocity of the 488ci engine. Though I am very very happy i cant seem to get the char bed constipated, since day one it has been a near perfect 2.5/1, 2/1 vacuum ratio at all times. That is very nice compared to the constant clogging up of the toyota!
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Clogging up like the Toyota. Are you using the same fuel and size? Yes from what I see, and no fines with the rake scoop. Is the grate 1" below the bottom of the gasifier housing, with the larger holes in the grate? Restriction opening size? Number of nozzles? Distances from nozzle to restiction opening , and distance from the opening to the grate? Even the area from the restriction opening to the grate.
Mine is not a straight tube or pipe down to the grate, it opens up with far more charcoal reserve area.
Any one of these things make big differents on how a gasifier performs, like the V-10 keep it with a loose charbed 2 to 1 or 2.5 to 1 ratios on the gauges, or like the toyota aways getting to tight and constipated in the charbed.
This is why no two gasifiers are alike when we build them. They are all one of a kind build.
By the way where did you get that rake shovel/scooper? That is a really cool tool.
Bob
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Got that at tractor supply 21$ and saves several hours vs sifting fines out of the chunk pile
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Thanks Marcus I am going to pick one up.
Bob
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I think itās called a Stall Fork or a Bucket Fork. I call it āthat thing you use to clean a horseās stallā
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Here they call it a bedding fork
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I bought Lisa one at a yard sale for 3 bucks 
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