What Tone said, Marcus - miss your posts.
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Thanks Marcus for the thorough answer. And as Tone said, we all understand but we are also thankful that we still can lure you here sometimes 
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Marcus i have been thinking about the charcoal problem that you have. I have it as well and have been trying to figure out what is causing it. Waynes truck does not make near the amount of charcoal that mine makes when running a lot i have to do cleanouts as often as you because the cross over will fill up. I wonder if it has anything to do with our design. the large slanted crossover tube instead of the smaller pipe going across. It is easier to clean out but i wonder if there is too little restriction on the gas and the carcoal so the gas pulles the charcoal up into the crossover. I used to get some but no where near the amount when i had the strait crossover. chris built one similar on bobs truck but it wasnt near the size and it wasnt slanted if i remember correctly. Just thinking of this now this might have something to do with why i tend to have problems with the char bed running loose. maybe the ease in which the charcoal can leave is the problem. Sorry for the long ramble just some thoughts.
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i have been having the same thoughts, and trying to brain storm a way to somewhat restrict that ease of movement
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That is an interesting idea. Maybe you and Marcus should take the NASCAR approach and choke plate it a little, maybe some baffling at the top and leave room for the ramp to still slide char down.
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Could it be that the lowest part of the crossover is so low that the gas can go in a âstraightâ line into the heatex from the grate which makes it easy to bring charcoal with it and Waynes gas have to turn upwards and then sideways to get to the heatex which flings the bits of char away from the gasflow with its own momentum?
A heavy right foot can also have something to do with it 
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My thoughts exactly Johan!
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admittedly there is no shortage of heavy right foot when driving my dodge. a while ago i lost one of the springs that holds the puffer lid down i need to find one and try a slow day bumping along the gravel roads here and see if that makes a difference just putting around in the mountains
edit
iv debated just hard bolting the puffer lid down on the mixer box, and if i a intake puff happens just let the air filters take the brunt, i âthinkâ it would just pop the filter off, or pop apart a furnco
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The crossover Chris made is slanted. I also will slip Charcoal off my grate like both of you. But I know why. It has to do with my right foot. If I drive my truck the way Wayne drives his I will slip alot less Charcoal off the grate. Wayne probably nevers pulls a vaccum of 40 plus like I do when starting off from a stop. I have to pull out on to 60 or 50 mph roads and people around here are driving 5 to 8 mph over. Lots of traffic on state highway #2 too. The next time I pull my gasifier firetube out I will make my grate a little larger in diameter. I also have only 1" between my grate and the bottom of my firetube.
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When I tried my first gasifier on raw wood, I also found that pieces of charcoal were escaping from the area of the grate, which was made of round curved pipes,⌠well, the next style of upright grate and densely spaced square pipes is a drawback. greatly improved. Your hanging grate has a low lip to hold the charcoal, so the charcoal has a chance to escape over that lip when the engine is pulling hard. If the grate were slightly wider, so that it exceeded the diameter of the hot pipe and the edge was higher, a kind of siphon would be formed, the flow of gases could not lift the larger pieces of charcoal over this edge until they were reduced, but this requires heat and oxygen. WK is a very good gasifier design, only this lower part needs to be adapted to the use and type of fuel, thatâs how I interpret it.
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This video shows what I usually get out of my heat x drop box . It is usually just dust .
The grass is greener wherever I wash it out 
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The slipping of Charcoal is good in the WK Gasifier design, it is part of how the ashes are being removed. The key is to have just the right amount of charcoal slipping but not to much. With no slipping you would have a constipated charbed full of ashes. If built correctly no need to shake the grate when driving or before starting up the gasifier. Fuel size and wood type is a big factor in this. The harder the wood the better is what I have found. If I think my char bed is getting to tight when feeling with my rod before startup checking my charbed, a bigger piece of wood with the other wood chunks in the hopper will take care of it. This piece of wood is about 3" Ă 4" also big brands of wood works good too.
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I think that is all correct. I know a heavy foot has a lot to do with it, but i have noticed a difference between the two trucks i had one with a regular crossover and these two that i have now with the large slanted crossover. I pushed them both the same. I have been thinking the same as Johan about there being a direct path to the crossover instead of it having to pull the gas up the side of the firetube then over sortof pulling it through a trap. I think i want to build my next one with the regular tube probably with a door and see if there is any difference. At this point my it dosent bother me to dump char because i just put in the garden.
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That implies you have a plan for another gassifier 
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Nothing imediate i have to much else going on but I have the dakota that i bought from @danny1003481 and i have a v10 that gets 11 miles to the gallon that i drive a lot. both of them need a gasifier. I also have a small suv that my neighbor gave me that i want to put on charcoal but that is pretty low on the list.
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I have a hatch clean out right a the slanted area. I could put a piece of metal across this lower area and see if it makes a difference. Thinking out loud and writing it down.
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As is known, wood is made up of hydrogen, oxygen and carbon atoms, the proportions of which are almost ideal, which means that with ideal gasification of wood, a rich and powerful gas would be produced without additional air. It is clear to all of us that this cannot be realized, the reality is that the wood contains quite a bit of moisture, that it is necessary to supply fresh air to the gasifier for burning part of the wood, which enables the gasification process and the product of the gasification is, among other things, water vapor again, so we have way too much water in the gasifier and there is always a shortage of charcoal, so I donât want to lose it and I try to keep it in the hot zone until the last bit,âŚ
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A few questions for those of you who know about US cars.
The boy has an s10a that he changed the gearbox on, he had oil in it and it ran a little for a while, put more oil in and then it doesnât run anymore, whatâs wrong?
My s10a is ticking on a valve, it sounds like, is there something I should do?
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I would guess the ticking is a pumped up or jammed hydraulic lifter Jan. Iâve never changed just one lifter but I donât see how it could be a problem to do so.
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Pop the intake, remove rocker gear, and you can just push them out with your fingers. Or Pull the valve covers and rocker assembly, remove the pushrods and pull the lifters out with a lifter extracting tool. No need to remove the intake.Oct 22, 2010
You probably know you can hold a long screwdriver to your ear to locate the faulty cylinder or of course an automotive stethoscope.
I donât understand about the sonâs problem. Manual or automatic? Need more details.
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Thanks Tom, I changed the cat on my car today and found it ticking more under, need to investigate more where the noise is coming from.
Itâs an automatic transmission, the boy changed it, and when he tested it, it went forward but not reverse, I think he got the linkage a little wrong, he thought he had too little oil in the gearbox and added more, and after that it went not forward either.
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