Hi Jan, as Tone says, take a hammer, hit every bolt a lot of times, not so hard you “re-shape” them, just give the some “massage” if you got one of them pneumatic needle-hammers, or borrow one, this does wonders.
If the bolt’s are rusted down, “rounded” you can use the special sockets for rounded bolts, i think they are available at Biltema or Jula, heavy-duty type.
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I have always been a fan of PB Blaster, but I recently saw this comparison on line. Has anyone tried the ATF acetone mix?
Garry C
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I have used it to unstick a generator to great success.
I was given a little 1300 watt briefcase generator that I am almost positive never had the oil changed or topped off.
Totally locked up even if I moved the flywheel by hand.
Mixed 50/50 Ford Type F and Acetone and poured it down the spark plug hole and let it sit for an hour, then added some more and gently moved the flywheel back and forth.
Once I got a smooth 360 degree rotation I emptied the combustion chamber and crankcase, changed oil and let it run.
Made a LOT of smoke of course but the fix lasted and now it runs good.
I keep it in a mason jar since Acetone eats plastic.
I think the reason why it works so well is the acetone thins the ATF down and lets it creep into tight spots that normal oil would take forever to reach. And then the acetone evaporates leaving a film of mineral oil behind. I’m sure the acetone also breaks down any carbon or maybe rust.
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I have never needed to use the mix but i have freed up engines using just atf several times. My pressure washer was a 10$ special locked up solid. Slide some atf down the plug hole and left it over night. 13 years later still going strong. If that don’t get it i use kroil, plenty of ways to skin a cat
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no trying to hijack the thread but I have a tractor transmission that got filled with rain water for a couple years and the engine is rusted up as well. right now I have the transmission full of burnt motor oil I haven’t had time to touch the engine.
How would you guys suggest that I free it up?
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I always put a ball peen hammer in center of the bolt ,OR a flat drift,and then hit the big end of the ball peen hammer with a little bigger hammer, if that dont work you either have too blast the nut part of the axel housing with a torch,then repeat hitting center head of the bolt, almost always works- other wize the bolt breaks and you must drill and retap the bolt if you can get bolt out with an easy out drift like tool. ITS much easier if you can add some heat and hammer center of the bolt head.AND yes soak it with wd 40 or some of the other mixes of thin penitrating oils
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If you can warm up the bolts enough to melt wax maybe this will help you.
Rindert
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That heating the bolt not help as well as heating the cast iron block- cast iron case will expand more in the right direction-I would think- though that worked adding heat.I have taken several hard bolts out useing propane too the outer casting threaded areas.
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If you heat the cast iron, there is no risk of it cracking?
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Jan, if you heat only the screw, the case will not crack, the fastest and most intense heating is heating with electric welding, this is how I solve broken screws,…
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Metals normally only crack under rapid changes in temperature. For any bolt loosening using heat I have found it’s best to use oxy/acet with a small brazing tip. That way heat is applied to a concentrated area. I have even removed a bleeder in a caliper like this when nothing else would work. I always use heat as a last resort though. By just heating the bolt it will expand and then contract and that is often enough to break the bond the threads have formed. Last resort is heating the area the bolt i threaded into but sometimes you just have to reach into your pants and get a handful.
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ALSO i have taken several rusted in studs-if stud is sticking up far enough ,you can weld a nut on the stud, and the heat from welding helps loosren the coroded theads,and use the welded on nut to remove the stud- so i gess heating the stud do help.I never had any cast iron around the nut thread area brake- as long as you let it cool slow untill not so hot.I might even try the heat the stud and candel wax trick myself- GOOD LUCK ALSO cast iron can be stick welded with cast iron rod-but the whole area must be heated first with a torch. WHAT TOM said is better yet with small tip when that keeps the heat away from other seals or gasket areas.
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[quote=“Kevin / east ,mi, post:672, topic:6328, username:kmrland”]
ALSO i have taken several rusted in studs-if stud is sticking up far enough ,you can weld a nut on the stud, and the heat from welding helps loosren the coroded theads,and use the welded on nut to remove the stud-
What Kevin said
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Thanks for all the tips I’ve been given, am a bit worried as it seems to be leaking a bit on one side.
Sorry for taking up space in your thread Marcus
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i was just watching waynes newest video and had a few thoughts
1 Now that i have had both obd2 and obd1 in this truck, i can definitively say that obd1 has a more aggressive timing curve. now i have not ran this motor on wood yet, but there is a very real seat of the pants power difference on gasoline from the obd2 operating system. so in my opinion obd1 is superior for wood gas use under this condition; it has a manual transmission. I say this because with the more aggressive timing with obd1, the timing is kept up higher throughout the entire usable rpm range of the truck. i cannot verify this since there is no information about the factory timing curve for the obd1 trucks available, but just judging by feel its like in my toyota running stock timing on woodgas, vs running advanced timing it is that much of felt usable power.
thats not to say a obd1 automatic will not work great as well as wayne has shown many times over, so the timing is not only more aggressive but being able to leave your foot in one spot and letting the transmission do the shifting work for changes in load needed ie up hill down hill towing ect, by not moving your foot on and off the throttle constantly shifting, the timing curve never has a chance to drop down low, below what i would estimate is about 30* of timing. wish i had a way to hook a timing light up to the truck and view it in the cab to see how it reacts, maybe a tinker project for another day
2 a obd2 truck like Jakob has now i think with some simple pcm tuning and ramping up the timing curve throughout the rpm range would be the ticket. then with either a manual or auto trans the timing will not drop out all the way to 10* of timing when you flat punch the skinny pedal.
just some thoughts for anyone planning a v10 build down the road and choosing between a auto and manual trans. in my opinion
94-95 obd1 manual or auto for a great starting truck that needs no tuning to make it very usable on woodgas
96-03 obd2 manual or auto will need some pcm tuning to be on par power levels with woodgas as the early trucks, auto probably a slightly better choise
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Did they make 2000 to 2003 V-10 ? Or are talking about OBD2 also in any V-8 and newer models of Dodge trucks.
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yes the v10 finished out the second generation body style that ended in 2002, and a select few 2003 third generation body style trucks were available with the v10
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Hi Marcus. We haven’t heard about the truck in a while. Now that you have had it for some time, is there something you would have done differently with the build or are you happy with all of it?
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Its hard to say if i would change much that would apply to everyone here, but for the majority of conifer wood i run that produces excess charcoal requiring weekly cleanouts, i think i would have either done a expiramental center nozzle like @Tone is using or a larger cleanout port on the cross over, with a quick disconnect door like i made on the toyota.
Nearly every clean out i have char packed up into the heat exchanger and that tends to give a false reading in the cross over temp probe.
If i had unlimited time and resources instead of rushing to build it, i think i would have used the firewool throughout the whole lower barrel, followed by a thin sheet metal covering to insulate the barrel and the cross over. Then the cross over temp probe i think would read more consistently as it wouldnt be submerged in char by the end of the week
I would have offset the firetube more towards the outside of the truck, i wasnt particularly happy with how close it is to the cut out in the frame, i couldnt fit any sheetmetal insulation in that area and it has resulted in burning off the paint several times now
The bed, rails, tanks, valves, heatx, iv had no issues with and im happy with them
The barrel lids i used on the hay filter and and hopper are inadequate, to thin, crappy gaskets they will need replaced with something more suited to the use
Everything else and overall performance i have been happy with
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Greetings Marcus, I miss your posts too, your presence has greatly enriched our society, well, however, family comes first,… moving to a new home, daily work, children, family, obligations,… no time for projects that take a lot of time.
I’m glad you’re still with us, but take time for yourself and yours.
God be with you, Tone.
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