New project! Normans next gassifier truck

JO, I’m with you here, I only have one “+” wire and a switch on the tractor, and this already gives me “problems”, you praise me, who makes three threads and welds two bends for the exhaust, while Marcus replaces the engine and rearranges the installation, as a joke :grin:

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What JO and Tone said .

Electric problems are so easily fixed but can take weeks to find !

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I get a sick feeling in my stomach when I look at all those wires. Half the time I can’t get the connectors to come apart.

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I’m with you, Tom, and if I get them apart. The next time I do it, I have to figure it out all over again.

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I have to say that when I take vehicle connectors apart, about half of them has a broken lockmechanism afterwards

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Always somethin to be done, brakes were feeling funky yesterday. Axle seal said “no i dont wanna!”


And off to the parts store we go!

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LIKE Wayne just said- gold mine of knowlege for a v10 prospect buyer-- seem like a guy might find a deal on one that was missing a vaulve or two.with not too many miles on it.THANKS for sharing thet mechanical gold. DID they ever put that motor in a heavy half ton ram truck.

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I think im the only one that could turn replacing drum brakes and axle seals into a 40 minute video :sweat_smile: oh well if it helps out one guy down the road i think it was worth it

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Thanks Marcus, thanks for all the great tips. You make it look so easy to do. Lots of brake jobs under your belt in your years of mechanicing.
Bob

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I did the other side in about 10 minutes, but turn the camera on and it takes forever and i struggle with it haha

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We all know about this when we try to show off your gasifier trucks on camera or to on lookers. Even Wayne has had a few bloopers.
Bob

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Thanks Marcus .

Very nice to watch a master at work :slightly_smiling_face:

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Ditto what @Wayne said Marcus. I love watching your videos, as you explain things so very well, not only what you are doing, but the reason you are doing it that way. My hat goes off to you sir!

Garry C

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All of what the others said, Marcus, + interesting with all the English terms.
Also, very satisfying to watch with all the proper tools used. When I did rear brakes on the Mazda truck I managed to stretch the job out for two days - and that’s without struggeling with a camera :smile:

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Great presentation job Marcus.
I like you learned and showed the two handed push whole assembly back and forth at 30 minutes. No easy swinging around the top buttress - anchor pin and a fellow did something wrong.
Ha! I had newbie assembled pop apart when I did this aggressively. Wrong assembled again.

I also love that you are showing a normal service restoration job.
Clean sure. But do NOT over obsessively overclean. Very limited, selective, lubrication at specific points only. Over-lubing again, will cause later in-service failures.

My points and your examples may seem totally unrelated to woodgasing.
Not at all. Just as Wayne Kieth’s using working examples have shown working woodgas is a very will-get-dirty, can-get gooey, clogging and binding up process.

The poor, poor Moderns with their spotless clean room types workspaces and offices experiences; raised in neat-freak homes, are lost usually adapting back to the dusts, the muds, the blood, and the sticky goo’s evolved to still must work systems.
And these must all be loose as a goose in working clearances and assembly.
Picture perfect painted drums and calipers cars are the one I pass taking ride in. Dude or Dude’ett cares more about appearances than my safety.
Steve Unruh

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Yes i once too had a anchor pin not locked all the way in when hand smacking and came rocketing out under spring pressure and smack me in the chest. Much rather it happen at that time then driving down the road and brake parts get stuck in places that severly impeded braking effort when you need them most! Over the years have seen more drum brakes incorrectly assembled come through a shop door then any other component. Many times anchor pins missing or chewed to pieces from popping out, auto adjusters not installed correctly, adjuster in backwards, of course the obligatory leaking wheel cylinders soaked shoes, occasional broken main springs.

I forgot to mention in the video after doing axle seals and reassembly to double checked differential fluid level! What leaked out of the hub seems a minimal amount but must be replaced. Personally i do a differential service at the same time so all new fluids. Definitely dont want those wheel bearings being run dry!

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Could you please explain? Can you drive the engine with this lamp?

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Do you have any good tips for removing the bolts for the lock on the rear diff?
The cover is very rusty, so I have bought a new one but when I was going to replace it, I see that the bolts are also rusty and stuck.

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Jan, our neighbors in Bosnia have a saying “don’t use force, take a hammer”. :grin::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Doubtful that it will help, the car has probably been in the grass for a few years.

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