No, that get’s old fast, drawback with long bar’s, but they look cool… 
As for your chains you have to shorten them 2 links, cut 3, many saw-shop’s, or on the web, you should be able to find links (pre-set’s) to joint the chains with, best thing is to use a rivet spinner, maybe a saw-shop can help you? It’s possible to hammer the rivets also, with a ball peen hammer, but for safety reasons i don’t recomend it.
On a 20" chain i believe you should be able to shorten 2 links and still be able to put the chains on.
But! A Warning, chains stretched that much will wear out the sprocket/rim much faster, almost like putting the wrong chain pitch on.
Edit: as for making ripping chains i’ve found a lot on the net, don’t remember anything right at the moment.
Years ago I ran an 056 Stihl, 32’’ bar on an Alaskan mill. I used ripping chain and regular chain, sharpened at 10 deg. Didn’t notice much difference between the way they cut.
I knew an old Italian man who cut fire wood with a pioneer 620
Heavy old saw I would tune up for him
He used a short 16 inch bar on that monster
Just the weight of the saw let it cut
I never understood the logic of this until years later
His son would steel chains and bars from work they never had to buy any
And the saw never had to work very hard so I guess it all worked out
When he died his saws were gifted to me and stayed in the back of my shop for years before I gave them away
I had no use for such a heavy thing
The Ironhorse view on mix oils. Interesting about the Stihl and Husky oils that I always use. I have a whole gallon of Yamalube oil for outboard engine mix that I always wondered if I could use. It’s 25 years old but I don’t think oil has a shelf life.
Hey TomH.
Talking about chainsaw oil brands, mixes and even bar oil around here PNW is like talking about a fellows Religion.
We just don’t do to get along face to face.
But I too once was a stout believer in branded Stihl and Husqvarna oils too. I’d buy in the small one bottle per gallon multi-packs, or a Makes-5-Gallons bottles.
So yeah mixes at 50:1.
Then 3 years ago in the same Spring I had both of the carburetors on mine and hers Stihl straight shaft H.D. weed eaters pouring flooding out. Then exactly 10 years old.
Local shop guys said it was from Stihl having bought out one of the carburetors manufacturers and moving production to China. The machined insertion cavities were then no longer metal expanding plugs sealed. But sealed with a hardeniig goo sealer. It would break down into particles either clogging - STARVING. Or holding valving in the carbs open - FLOODING.
Pissed me off having to buy new carbs. Dissembled the old and they were right. Then knowing down the road have the same problem.
So, yes. I changed oil brands. Had to change some factor. Alawya used non-ethanol 89ron gasoline in these and the saws.
Royal Purple HP2-C synthetic oil since then Only reason because it there; available; and was not Stihl.
A true one-quart bottle.
I measure mix from old Stihl 2.6 oz/77ml and 12.8 oz/.38l bottles. They are originally to a stepped shoulder underfilled. I fill up above, to the next higher neck-step to get the close to 40:1 now. No smoke. No Plugs fouling. No siezed lost engines so far.
Ha! I’ll know in another 7-8 years.
After next year probably go to a different brand Amsoil, Redline, Yamma-lube. Something with a bit stronger colorant in it. Royal Purple gasoline mixed is hard to see.
Ha! Two different brands of bar oil lube here used. Durex; summer thick and tacky and seeable red. Chraftsman brand as thinner, for winter lube.
S.U.
Being from a long line of loggers in the family, I can verify this discussion ruined a Thanksgiving dinner. Uncle ran stihl regular, dad uses stihl synthetic, brother and I run vp, other brother runs echo.
Our buddy that climbs for us uses yamalube if he had been there for the conversation it may have involved the cops with how boisterous it was getting in the dinning room
Conversation was good for something, no one notice my third helping of prime rib though and last of the asparagus
Yep. Gotta have a sence of humor about this stuff:
Yeah! Maybe I’ll go with a B.C. Canada opinion.
S.U.
This makes me smile. It’s good for people to have strong opinions about really important things, unlike arguing about political parties and opinions. I just started watching Ironhorse and already have learned a few things. I never thought about drilling wider the oil hole in the bar. I mentioned my Husky 460 has stretched chains like crazy since I"ve owned it, 12 years now. Just finished changing the pump and oil lines and looked at the bar and one hole was plugged. I’m an idiot. Mea Culpa. Three quarters of a century old and still don’t know crap.
But! A Warning, chains stretched that much will wear out the sprocket/rim much faster, almost like putting the wrong chain pitch on.
I want to pick you brain a little about this Goran. I believe that a chain stretches pretty equally at each rivet point. If a chain has stretched to just past the point it will tighten the amount of stretch from each would be extremely small. I have seen other warnings like yours and don’t doubt the fact but just how much of that distance would be required to begin changing the drive links relationship to the sprocket? Also a new sprocket for that saw is less or not much more than the price of one new chain. These are 20 inch chains and I have at least 10 that are no longer useable. I also have a 24 inch bar for that saw. Stupid question. If I took links out of one of those 20 inch chains could I make 24 inch chains without damaging anything?
Hey TomH,
Have you ever had a long bar chain break, whipping?
Nope neither have I.
I have seen fellows who’ve been scared torn up, though.
And they never play chain-games thereafter. Scrap’em out.
Learning to minimize stretch-wear going forwards.
Hiway tires stretching games the same. Just too damn dangerous.
At speed the forces don’t just multiply. They keep going up by four.
S.U.
That saw and those Husqvarna chains are the only ones I’ve every had any problem with. Never a single issue with a Stihl chain. Project farm tested chains and the Oregon did about as well as the Stihl at about half the price. Pretty sure I’ve got the oiling issues on the husqvarna solved. I will probably just get a couple new Oregon’s for that and call it good. The new Echo is impressing me and that has an Oregon chain. I am mostly curious about the chain rebuilding because as always I am looking at a time when I may not be going to the store to buy something new.
I had a few husky chains stretch, I usually run Oregon or stihl chain and dont have any problems with stretch
Actually, i use chains stretched like that often, just have to mention that “warning”, i believe that wear i worst if one uses a new sprocket with old, stretched chains.
If i do something, i don’t necessary recomend others to do the same. 
As for the risk of chain break i believe best one can do is to inspect the chains for “microscopic” cracks, often around the rivets, and the middle/“waist” on the connecting links.
An example: i run a old Pioneer 100cc, this one has the “odd” chain pitch of 0.400", on this one i run 0.404" chain with no trouble, (worn sprocket).
But as i say: don’t do as i do, safety first.
Edit: and watch out for some chinese brands of chain, they stretches enormously, have to adjust tension about every 15 minutes…
My experience is that Husky chain stretches much more than Stihl or Oregon. Stihl is much sharper out of the box than anything else. Biggest factors are to keep the bar clean to keep the oil flowing. Do anything to keep the chain sharp so that everything is working efficiently.
I have filed a chain away in less than 4 hours but usual to have one last a week or so. That is 8 hrs a day on a paved dryland sort.
I always made my own chains from a roll by breaking the links with a pin press and peening new links in with a ball peen hammer. Make any length chain that way. A spinner does a nice job but I never bothered.
Broke lots of chain under load and they usually just spit out and piled on the ground or snap and sit there. Never was worried about them wrapping around my leg or anything.
Started with big Husky 2100’s and 480’s and transitioned to 181,281 385, 395’s. Have run Stihl 044/ 046 ( light and zippy ) and 084 and an older gear drive 090. My experience is the Stihl’s had better engines but the Husky’s were easier to work on in the field and were more resistant to salt water. I have a couple of non running older saws ( a McCulloch and a Canadian ) but they are pretty heavy for my toothpick arms.
I am 5’ 7" and 155 lbs so ran a 26 or 28 " bar but up to a 36 in bigger wood. I never fell wood professionally but have dropped a few. Mostly firewood and bucking. A longer bar is safer and easier as you are standing more upright and is more resistant to kickback.
We always had best luck with Castrol Super 2 Stroke but Husky or Stihl should be fine as well as Motorcycle oil. Our dealer says that outboard oil isn’t great as it is formulated for a water cooled outboard engine as opposed to the hotter air cooled engines.
I’m a minor league compared to you Darrell. I cut 7 cord a year for my house and maybe 1 to 2 for the greenhouse and charcoal making. For years I took my chains to a 90 something year old guy that sharpened them for 4 bucks a loop and better than new. When he passed on I started sharpening my own but to this day cannot get them even close to factory for some reason. When I was using the Husky a lot I just bought new chains because I get a miniature thrill out of how well they cut compared to my file jobs. I have a benchtop sharpener but only use it if the filed angles get to wonky. Now I’m all confused about using the Yamalube outboard oil I have.
Yes, special outboard oil shouldnt be used in air-cooled engines, it’s made to burn clean in lower temperatures, because outboard engines often run cool due to the unlimited amount of cooling fluid 
I’ve seen some examples of clearing saws and chainsaws scoured on exhaust side probably due to this.
We also have to take in acount two-stroke oil for outboard engines engines are made to burn much cleaner “disapear” due to water environment protection rules.
Here TomH.
For you:
I will be changing my own self-learned techniques now having seen this.
I have been able to get better than new chain performance hand filing for about ten years. But maybe too aggressive? I need to refile after every tank of fuel. I will be ditching out of the simple Stilh file clamp guides and try gong free-hand, larger files like he shows.
I hope @Wallace see this one for the many, many McColloch’s this guy shows revering at 3:20. Then performance cutting showing off.
S.U.
Great video Steve, I learned a lot of good tips.
Bob
Boy he is definitely an enthusiastic character all right! Thanks for the video Steve.
That is how I file mostly but rarely have a vice in the field so pick a flat stump and get behind the saw and lean on it. It takes a bit getting used to filing right and left hand but it works really well. In my experience most hand fallers are not great at filing because they carry spare chains and machine grind them at the end of the day.
A tight chain helps prevent the tooth rocking around. Generally he has a nice long straight stroke which is what you want to aim for. I don’t agree with his rocking the file up and down, I use about 10 degrees down with a 7/32 file on 3/8 chain and 1/4 file for .404.
His chain was pretty dinged. You don’t want to file lots on the really bad teeth and leave the others alone.The dull tooth is back from the rest and not cutting anyways so you have to bring the rest back to it. I would take 12 or 16 light steady strokes off each tooth and cut for a bit then take probably 8 strokes and then 2 or three after each fuel up to keep it sharp. You want each tooth to be identical to the next and everybody pulling their weight. It is tough if you just dull one side, then the saw wants to " draw" or not cut straight down and binds badly too. In that case you have to really file down the sharp side to even things out. He only touched on it but a sharp file is essential for a sharp chain. I too run into the problem of one or two really hard rakers or even teeth on an occasional chain. Sometimes it will clear up once you file through the hard spot but usually wrecks the file. I usually tap the file on the bar after every tooth to clear the filings if it is wet out and they are sticking.
Sorry for the long post but that is my two cents.
No reason to apologize Darrell. We all have to use saws to cut wood. May as well be as efficient as possible with them. The voice of experience is priceless and I’m not paying a penny for it.