Good comprehensive, complete article you put up HansR.
ALL, go to that articles end for the linked article of “10 Parts You Will Need for Any LS engine swap”
Ha! Ha! And then view the many video’s on the Driveway Engineers channel and see he does swaps using repurposed OEM systems.
“Make-Do . . . or Do Without”
S.U.
Hey @Chris, what other concerns are we currently aware of regarding woodgas with '07+ LS engines?
According to Motor Trend, disabling active fuel management can be as simple as using an “AFM disabler, an electronic device that plugs into the OBD II diagnostic port.” although it would be better to replace the cam, lifters, and a few related parts.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/pit-stop-deleting-ls-afm-vvt-good-performance/
Good thought @SteveUnruh!
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/10-ls-swap-parts-you-need/
This also looked relevant:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/ls-swap-tips/
No kidding @tcholton717 ! Even things like wheels are not as interchangeable as it seems like they should be. Late model wheels from one US automaker might be 5x114.3 or 5x115. I understand a subcompact sedan and the one ton dually truck would need different parts, but engineering bolt patterns to differ by 7/10 of a mm just seems vindictive.
These do usually work, however sometimes they’re buggy. I agree that replacing the cam and lifters plus tune is the only surefire way to delete AFM. You can also stay in V8 mode in 2007+ LS engines by putting the shifter into Manual mode and selecting 5th gear, locking out 6th. You have to do this every time however and you lose your top overdrive.
Edit:
I can’t speak for the V8s but in my 2011 GMC my drive by wire throttle body still manipulates just fine with the fuel pump totally shut off, it actually works without the engine running with key in the On position. For my truck, the fuel injectors is the ENG fuse and I could never get it to run with it cut off. ENG may also tie into the throttle body but I have no proof of this. I was able to tap into the fuse block without cutting any harness wires. Even if I never put a gasifier on my GMC again at least I have a way to slow down a would-be carjacker.
Here’s the fuse tap, it changes from a micro to a mini fuse.
I just ran a switch inline to this fuse tap. The injectors do dribble the tiniest amount of gasoline, I’m not that worried about messing these injectors up because they’re true Port Sequential Injection unlike the old Spider Central Port injector.
Do you know what is buggy about them? It sounds like all they do is send a ‘disable afm’ code every second down the canbus.
They usually will quit working, or cause some sort of error that can only be fixed by removing the device and starting back up. This is just what I’ve seen on Amazon customer reviews.
I just read one where they failed to get the startup sequence to work. Like you power on the vehicle and if it starts emitting during that sequence it doesn’t work. I can’t find the codes it is sending nor any like arduino code either, which seems odd. I can’t imagine it is that complicated.
There used to be just one or two brands of these chips, and nobody reported issues. After the imitators starting coming out there’s been a rash of lemons even from good brands.
maybe they added a firmware update that checks for the message that is being sent during start up now. I still can’t figure out what it is sending.
This seems interesting. because he is talking about a chips supply issue with the chips for an afm control module which means there is an afm control module with additional circuitry that is part of something somewhere on the vehicle. It makes me wonder WHAT is missing and whether AFM can be enabled on these.
