Right, it’s a 1947 gasoline Fergie. I think diesel Fergies weren’t introduced until early 50s.
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This afternoon I harassed Kristjan for half an hour with my impossible questions about the processes in the gasifier, I always get some interesting information, good because he has a lot of patience.
Otherwise, I go the way of Jeop, I replaced the synchronous generator and replaced it with an asynchronous but awkward one as I am, I broke the connector on the fridge.
I tossed a little wood lying in the yard and chose suitable pieces for the construction of the facility where the gasifier will stand. The night is too early, and tomorrow is a free Saturday.
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Little change of work program, from iron to wood,. I’m attaching a couple of pictures here, I hope you don’t laugh too much 
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Hello Tone,
This is to be the engine generator head base, yes?
If so, no laughing from me.
Metal ships they learned well to wooden skid mount the axillary engine-generators.
Sound and vibrations Isolation.
Wooden engine-generators enclosures can work to for sound and vibration damping unless made to be musical instruments. Wooden flat panels do this.
S.U.
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I have already mentioned in the second topic what my brother Primož (doctor of mechanical engineering and extraordinary mathematician, physicist and top connoisseur of materials, …) suggested, namely the mixing of water vapor between fresh air in the gasification of wood. Since we all know that this process produces an excess of water vapor, which we condense and discharge from the system, at first glance this proposal seemed pointless to me, but after some consideration I find it to be very good. I drew a cross-sectional sketch of the heart and divided the bands to form individual gases. The closest to the nozzles, where dry hot air hits the burning charcoal and expels other gases in the middle, only CO can be formed, in a narrow band where the temperature is still very high, the conditions for the formation of CH4 and CO, the next is the H2 band and CO and in the middle is the band where H2O no longer decays. So, if I captured part of this water vapor at the top of the gasifier and mixed it with the venturi effect on the nozzle, the hydrogen content in the gas would increase, while at the same time I could reduce the diameter of the fire hose by the same power consumption. Comments are highly welcome.
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Sketch for rearrangement in the gasifier.
I will definitely try this, but not right away, it will work as it is first to take longer measurements.
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No comment, just speechless. Is this woodgas 3.0? If the WK is 2.0. Cant wait to see your results.
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Hi Joep, as I believe you are very busy, just like me, the job, the daily work, … and there is less time left for experiments, so the project progresses more slowly, but slowly gets far.
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Tonight we decided not to work but cut 2 m3 of wood for the Atmos. The plan was one IBC but music full open and full speed ahead. We were having fun. I asked my college , if I wouldnt pay you tonight you would be here anyway. Yes, for sure, he said without hesitation. So, lot of fun but no work and no experiments for me. But you are going strong! Keep it up! Woodgas 3.0. I have no clue, but is sound logical. The same what is done in charcoal gasifiers. The trick is to have the water right were it should be. Only my thoughts, cant prove anything. Let that to the real experts.
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Hello Tone,
You should wait on this idea until you have ran a few hundreds of kilo’s of wood through your system.
Good operating raw wood system will assume an upper hopper thick coating:
page scroll down for the open hopper down picture.
Ha! I am not picking on Joni. I’ve just kept his earmarked.
All others with worked systems do this too. Why many insist on black painting the outsides of theirs to not have to continually clean the black drool streaks.
You will have to position your tubes inlets to not quickly pick up tars smoke and build up layers clog.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi Steve, I definitely plan to operate the system for at least a month in its original state, and then I will try out new ideas. However, this is a very simple and quick procedure, I pull out the core, mount the venturi nozzles, and from the back there is a hollow ring for the supply of steam and gases from the top, where they will reach three 1/2 "pipes. The system has been operating for about 10 hours so far and I notice a very thin layer of tar on the wall, obviously due to the hot atmosphere and the heated wall it does not condense on the housing.
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Tone the tar coating is good. It will prevent upper system acid corrosions.
Upper systems (above the nozzles) will become ~2 points to acidic.
Downstream system (after the restriction plate/grate) will become ~2 points beyond 7.5 neutral ph.
S.U.
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It’s that lye wood ash infested moist gas that eats up aluminum in systems.
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Hi Tone, I like the idea. Kristijan and I had a discussion on this a couple of years ago. A venturi nozzles sucking from the top of the hopper. The problem with the water vapor is it carries tar juices that could plug up the venturi system. Look at the inside of the hopper walls sticky black tar, inside the nozzles would be the same. Now if you could run this vapor down the sides of the hopper and some how push or pump it out through separate pipelines just above the nozzles where it is the hottest. That would work. Maybe @KristijanL can find some of his drawings on this idea. It is a great idea.
How about a nozzle down the middle of the firetube with the ones all around to cove this center area.
Bob
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Yes Bob l remembered that imidiatly. There shuld be drawings of this somewhere here but lost in the sea of posts. But no need to search for it, my drawing was preety much identical to what Tone drew. Never got to building it thugh…
Tar plugging, lts hard to say. Tone runs a hot hopper and the nozzles shuld be wery hot at this point. Tar shuldnt cling to them. But the question is what happens in contact with cold air…
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Yes Kristijan, when everything is hot there will be no problem but when the gasifer is cold that is when tars form and can get real sticky in side the nozzles and plug things up. Thanks for your response on this.
Bob
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Not only Kristijan 
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If it was a central nozzle centered in the hopper to feed the water, I would think tar may stick to the outside of the pipe. Then under the next fire and heat cycle the tar would loosen and drip, straight into the hottest part of the fire lobe? Granted it would only feed that tar that was stuck to the pipe that would be a good tar cracking system and more power made, I think?
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I think your ideas exchanging came to the spot of “tar recycling gasifier”. One of proven concepts is mentioned in the gasification bible shared on this site:
No matter of particular construction, my humble opinion is, that inner tube sucking the vapours from the top of hopper is the best approach.
- First, the tube is wide enough to prevent clogging.
- Second, it is easily removable fo cleaning.
- Third, it is heated by the surrounding flames and vapours which also prevents clogging with tar.
If air used for venturi suction at the top is preheated by output gas, then tar vapours will not condense at all. Heated inlet air also bring more energy into active zone, what may help to break more water comming along with tars from the top of hopper. And this is what all gasmen are seeking, isn’t it, ya?
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