New one for the Fergie? Was there to much charcoal left? Top work Dr Ir Tone.
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amazing that all the ash and all the gas will flow through these little holes without clogging.
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tone, the additional pipe, the inner ring with the round holes, is this for protecting the double walled heat exchanger (with the splits on the bottom)? and further for build up a ash protection for the upper nozzle holes?
very interesting your new design…
ciao giorgio
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Here are some pictures of the process of drying wood chips, which is supposed to be fuel in a gasifier without a condensing zone. The process is fairly fast with minimal energy loss.
The last picture is the drying stop after 4-5 hours
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Hi Tone , so do you fill half way and then set fire and after the chips start burning smother with more and then set lid and flu on top and allow the heat from the embers to dry off all the chips ? or are you part burning it all to charcoal brands ?
Dave
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I light the fire practically at the bottom, when the barrel is almost empty, then slowly add wood chips, so that the fire is maintained, this way, all the wood heats up well, then I add a lid with a chimney to vent the steam and a larger barrel to maintain the temperature, leave it like this for 4-5 hours, then plug the chimney and the thing is finished.
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Thanks i now see there are flames when your barrel is almost full to the top , so its doing a sort of air curtain but instead of converting the wood to charcoal its drying it out in layers .
Dave
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Here is the drying result, I am using this fuel now in the gasifier on the tractor, I can say that this fuel gives really excellent gas, there is very little condensation from the funnel and cooler, probably this fuel is the best for achieving rich gas.
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Thank you Tone, for showing us all this new method for drying raw moist wood for gasification. Now if we have 20 % or higher moisture content in the wood we can dry it very quickly down to below 10 % moisture and use it right away. This will be very useful in areas where it takes long periods of time to dry the wood.
Tone’s Wood Drying Retort. TWDR
Bob
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I’ll just write here so as not to burden others’ topics. The shape and size of the hot zone is certainly important and must be adapted to the size of the wood pieces, the goal is that these pieces of wood are “cooked” into charcoal, and these charcoals are reduced during the process so that they can slide through the grate. When we think like this, we can see that the charcoal must glow all the way to the grate, because that’s the only way the pieces can get smaller. When the flow of gases is optimal, the heat reaches all the way to the grate and the conversion of water vapor and pyrolysis gases takes place successfully, but with lower consumption, oxygen no longer reaches the lower part, so the coal below stops gasifying and you lean on the grate, thus a large resistance appears. and negative pressure on the gas extraction line, all of which are aggravated by moist pyrolysis gases that additionally cool the lower part. The release of moist pyrolysis gases above the heated hot zone can be so great (stopping at an intersection, or driving downhill) that even a slight overpressure is created in the upper part (wood store), which prevents the entry of fresh air, and you can imagine that the hot zone cools quickly and the quality of the gas drops rapidly , this phenomenon is called “hesitation”.
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My experience and tests, with which I wanted to achieve smooth operation of the gasifier at different consumption flows of wood gas, show that it is essential to keep the glowing zone near the grate. The goal of a good gasifier is to keep the hot zone at the bottom of the heating pipe and start expanding upwards when the flow rate is increased, this method actually enables self-regulation of the thickness of the hot part and also control over the release of pyrolysis gases, since the upward radiation quickly decreases with a low flow rate, ( when the upper nozzles stop working), and the layer of the hot zone is “protected” by charcoal, which collects moisture from the pyrolysis gases. It’s fascinating to me to think about a gasifier with the same diameter from top to bottom, where there is no possibility of fuel jams, regardless of whether they are larger pieces or sawdust or coal dust.
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Now you got my attention 
And what about the grateless? There are more gasifiers without grate. It doesnt give blocking problems?
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Joep, the style of gasifier described above, which in addition to the top air nozzles, has an air intake down in the middle, should also “digest” sawdust without clogging, imagine, a hot zone that spreads from the middle outwards, this is where all the small particles are gasified and the flow of gases withdraws them through the side openings.
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Ok, what do you think of this gasifier for the little Yanmar?
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Hi Tone
what proportion, do you recommend, between the surface of the top nozzles and the surface of the bottom nozzles?did you make some sort of rule?
Thierry
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Joep, I didn’t forget your question, well, the answer is not so simple. I want the size of the carburetor to fit both the Yanmmar and the Lister engine, if you take the inner tube with a diameter of 250 mm, it would definitely fit the Lister engine, when using this carburetor for the Yanmmar engine, I would insert a restrictor tube with a diameter of approx. 160 mm for (I did the same for the my unit , there are pictures above)
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Thierry, the ratio of the sum of the diameters of the upper and lower nozzles is about 2:1, for example 12 holes with a diameter of 4 mm on the top and 6 holes with a diameter of 4 mm on the bottom, good, this is an example for a heating pipe of 200 mm, height from the bottom to the upper nozzles is equal to the diameter of the heating pipe - 200 mm
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Thanks Tone, no worries. Blabbering for a few years now, some more dont hurt. Better 160 mm then. For the Lister will be a new one. Like with houses, you have to build three before it is how you want it
I will cut the dxf right away, I thrust you blinded.
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Maybe someone is interested in where thinking about the gasifier and certain experiments led me. I will describe a little bit the “improved” version of the gasifier with the air intake above and an even bigger heat exchanger, which will close with the swirling of the gas above, which will enable the removal of fine ash and at the same time a good heat transfer to the fresh air. The supply of fresh air higher up, just below the condensate collection chute, will create a thermal barrier between the gas and the condensate, and then it travels down countercurrently to the hot gas, which ensures a good heat exchange. It probably sounds complicated, but the thing is quite easy to make. Let me summarize, the gasifier will contain an efficient condensation zone, a storage tank for chips, where there will be no fuel jamming, a hot zone that will quickly adapt to the need for gas, a counter-current exchanger for returning heat to the process and preheating the air to an extremely high temperature, a “cyclone” for gas purification.
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Tone, for figuring the size of the combination Reduction/Restriction zone, have you estimated a formula or is it more along the lines to use Imbert spec reduction diameter?
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