I did not see any smoke but it perhaps it is more of a vapour that doesn’t show on the video
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Johan, the lid smoke only shows when you turn the engine off or even throtle it down fast. At load usualy its not a problem unless the lid leak is so severe that so much air mixes with hopper gases and boom boom sneeze…
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Yes, I expected to see a little bit when you throttled down a lot in the video but there is perhaps some play in the wire connections so it only looked like a big change. Now that I watched the video again and judging from the engine revs it was not that big of a change.
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Hi KristijanL,
Congratulations to you both on the successful useability so far. Sound great.
Can you please show a picture of your used wood fuel?
Moisture content?
What species of hard wood?
Thank you
Steve Unruh
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Thank you Steve.
This is a torrefyed wood gasifier. I frankly wuldnt dare puting pure raw wood in, but rocket fuel wuld probably work great too.
Not as is that is, without any condensation zone etc…
Tone posted pictures of his process when he prepared the wood (along with the gasifier l also got a barrel of fuel to test) but l cant remember on wich topic right now… if l dont forget l will take pictures tomorow but basicly is mixed size chips from dust to near 4" long, torrefyed.
I do belive torrefyed wood has a lot of potential for small mobile units. Its more energy efficient to produce thain charcoal and produces a heat ballanced athmosphere in the hearth. Yes its some work to make but in the end, l rototilled about a quarter acre, burning about 20-30l of chips and a bit of diesel.
Yes, theoreticly anyone with a monorator hopper or a WK condensation pipes does make torrefyed wood in the gasifier on the fly but if we want to conserve space and weight, like on small vehicle like this, torrefyed wood shows great promise.
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thru post 561
Mike LaRosa used to like to tell the story of Wayne Keith way-back in the beginning driving up on wood to visit him. With his still no-side jets FEMA based gasifer.
Wayne said he had made it work with torrefied wood chunks he’d make up in 55 gallon barrels.
I agree. Pre-torrefying is a valid technique for small systems especially.
Regards
Steve unruh
S.U.
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Thanks Steve.
I still remember the mileage of that trip . 1987 same as the year model of the dakota 
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here is our “motoretta” with 360 ccm diesel engine…my thought was to modyfie with spark ignition or diesel fuel for ignite the chargas…so as kristijan wrote that he needs sometimes all the horsepower of the engine, therefore he has choosen diesel ignition…i have the same situation here with some very steep parts of the street or terrain…so chargas with diesel ignition will be the better choice
i am not clear about the regulation of the diesel pump, how it works…
on the handle - 3.foto- is a lever on the right side where i can stop the engine, idle, or give more rpm, but how the lever is regulated, so it stands…
the lever on the left side is elastic and always goes back to zero when i not push…
so when i will run the engine with chargas, i bring the lever on the right side in idle position for gas ignition and and regulate the power with a throttle in front of the engine intake…
when is needed more power for example on a steep piece of the street can i give more diesel for more power by the left elastic handle?
on the second foto is the box where the cables goes in…the elastic lever cable goes to the outer lever with the spring,
the cable of the right side of the handle goes in the box…
can someone of our diesel -woodgas experts can help me to explain how the regulation must work?
ciao giorgio
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Hello Giorgio. On your second picture, 2 cables can be seen. One is for throtle and one shuts off the fuel pump in order to kill the engine. Am l right?
When you give it “throtle”, you only act upon a fuel governor and tell it you want more rpm. It will then dose enaugh fuel to sustain that rpm. It will also shut off diesel injection all together once the rpm is reached. Not good for woodgas! Then you get no ignition.
You need to always have your throtle set to max rpm. That way the engine will always want max rpm and always inject fuel. But you now limit the fuel with the shutoff cable. I put a screw on to set it. If l manage l will make a video of how l do this.
You then add your woodgas via throtle before the engine.
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I have always wanted to build a tractor like that. They seem very utilitarian.
Do you steer more with your legs, or with your arms? The handlebars seem more like places to rest your hands.
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i am not really shure if i understand…the left lever is for example synonymous to the foot pedal of my hanomag tractor for giving the needed power…
the right lever is for shut-off, idle and fix regulating of rpm on always stable turns…
now when i drive the motoretta, i regulate always with the right lever (how as i do with my mower) with the thumb the needed rpm (the left lever is a bit inconveniant by construction to free regulation),
so , what i not understand, when i fix the left lever( what is synonymous to the foot pedal in my hanomag tractor) on full power for woodgas using, how you explained. does this not disactive the right lever (the idle , stable rpm , shut off lever)??
and so gives maximal diesel injection quantity??
i dont know if the regulation system on your tractor acts in the same way as mine?
should be interesting to see a design how the pump for one cylinder engines is built and regulated…is it the same system as 4 cylinder pumps , regulating the delivery quantity by turning the pump pistons?
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cody steering is only by hand and in some positions very hard…i will add some pieces for foot steering too, but must see before how is this possible because of the gasifier basement.
when you look at picture 3 you see the gasifier basement on the right side, but i think this additional weight of the gasifier is too heavy for the axles, because they are long ( the engine can be modyfied also as tiller) so i must build a frame that brings the weight near to the wheel…
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The modern way to do it:
(not necessarily better =)
4x4:
I’ve hooked up our beat-up little stake bed trailer to our BCS tractor, to haul firewood from the neighbor’s place. We got fuel, but no pictures 
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You certainly have some interesting machines Girogio. Never seen wheels that looked like those. What really caught my eye was the stone paving. That is excellent. Is that part of a road? Also what are those buildings in the background with the thatched roofs. Don’t see that anymore.
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It seems to be exactly the same as myne.
If l understand right. When driving you need to hold the left hand lever and if you let go, the engine stops yes? Thats the shutoff lever seen on picture 2 that has the big spring atached. You only need to come up with a screw mechanism to set this lever so that the shutoff mechanism starts to shut down fuel, but not quite fully.
Then you can give it max throtle and the engine will want to give full injection (max rpm) but can not since you limited it with the shutoff lever. It will remain in idle no matter what. Then you can add the woodgas.
Tom, l belive those are haystacks. A clever way to preserve hay if one has no space in the stable.
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seems different my engine as yours…driving yes with the left hand lever hold, but when i let it go, the engine not stops! this lever but is connected with the spring …
shut off lever is the lever on the right hand(lever completely up stops the engine)… i pull it down a bit for starting and than regulate idling… but can also make higher rpm with this lever(but extreme higher rpm only with the left hand lever)
right hand lever in position for starting and idling, completely up is engine off…
i tried this morning left hand lever pressed down, right hand lever in shut off position…the engine was not to start, will say though full down pressed left hand lever gots no diesel…
can you combine how the regulation works with this description?
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tom, in the background, how kristijan has sayd , are haystacks or strawstacks, seems the houses from asterix and obelix village…stone paving is our treshing place, my son makes all this stone pavings from stones he found around here …
the wheels… you must know i am not really a fan of flat tires, so we made this solution…, we have a lot of thorns here everywhere, the rubber is made from old tractor tires…very early , teached by always flat wheelbarrows and horse cart wheels, i stopped to get boared by pneumatic tires…
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Giorgio, your diesel engine has a slightly different arrangement of levers for regulating the amount of fuel and speed regulation, something similar is done on the Yanmmar engine. The handle, which has a spring on the outside, is supposed to be for adjusting the “fuel amount”, and the handle under the cover is for maintaining the revolutions, so if you want a really small amount of fuel, loosen the steel wire for the outer handle, so the fuel will be limited to a minimum and the engine will achieved only a small power.
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tone, thank you for explainig…yesterday morning i looked your video with the woodsplitter, where you give gas from the fergie, i have seen you make something with the regulation…
is it the same, instead of loosing the steel wire of the lever with the spring, when i only not pull down this lever, simply not using it?
when i need additional diesel power on steep street than i can pull down this lever with the spring?
this would be a very conveniant system…
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Giorgio, in that video I set the lever in the wrong direction, well, even without any physical limitation of diesel fuel, the speed controller will automatically reduce the amount of injected fuel when you add wood gas, it’s very simple, you just have to try. Let me just say that a diesel engine with the addition of wood gas works very well under load, idling does not suit it, so it is good to increase or decrease the amount of gas in parallel with the load
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