If you got space its a nice way to hide a large surface area sock filter. But truth be sayd, the popping there was entirely my fault. First, l used a 12v vacuum cleaner as a fan, draw gas trugh the brushes. Never do that now l learned… second, the air culd be sucked back from the mixer valve trugh the filter. Bad bad idea… we learn with scars, and bangs 
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Tone, forgive my ignorance, but aren’t intake runners built to certain lenghts and widths for a reason? Long and narrow for low end tourqe - short and wide for high rpm power. Or does that hold true only for multi cylinder engines?
To avoid risk of bangs, would smoothing “reservoars” prior to the mixer be helpful?
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In this combination, you risk inadequate operation of the engine speed controller if we are talking about a generator. The frequency will be very unstable.
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Kristjan stated the combustion temperature of the wood gas-air mixture at 800°C, now I have data to calculate the pressure upon ignition, which is 3.9 bar, if it does not cool down on the walls of the container, this is also good information for other purposes. … such as calculating engine power and torque. Anyway, thank you for your opinions, which I will take into account.
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Tone, it was a late night guess… might be higher.
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Im shocked that tank of oxygen/acetylene didn’t explode, im with Kristijan here, maybe because the mix was off?
A 125 liter plastic bag filled with oxy/actylene are capable to blow out atleast seven double glass windows in a fairly large workshop (don’t ask me how i know) talk about supersonic…
But, when mixing calcium carbide and water, in for example a milk jug, only air, no pure oxygen, the explosion is much more “slow and under control” (you dare to hold the jug and point it at some mean and grumpy neighbor hous)
Well, enough with this, back to serious.
I’ve posted this before, the “pulsator system” worked very well on big single cylinder engines, mostly two-stroke hot-bulb engines, those was so sturdy built, it was no problem to get up to 130% the original power.
Observe two-strokes need a intake valve for woodgas, and feed pure air through crankcase flushing.
Hot-bulbs needed converting to sparkplug
Just if it could give some ideas?
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Goran, thank you for this picture, it is very interesting,…
Somewhere in my memory, I remember that the ignition speed of a mixture of gasoline and air spreads at a speed of 30m/s, but acetylene mixed with oxygen is faster,… think about what happens when a combustible mixture is ignited in a strong closed cylinder, the pressure rises quickly and surface temperature (slower). How do we see this change from the outside? You can hear almost nothing, only the cylinder gets hot. Well, a rapid rise in pressure in a closed space does a lot of damage, if it rises from 1 bar to 1.1 bar, that means a force of 1000 kg per 1 m2…
When we think about the pressures that occur during the operation of the engine, I can mention a few characteristics:
- by rapidly compressing the mixture in a compression cycle, a pressure of approx. 15 bar is reached
- ignition of the mixture and spread of fire, the pressure rises to approx. 50-60 bar
- the piston moves down and does the work, the exhaust valve opens, the pressure of the gases is approx. 3 bar, which are released into the surroundings at a supersonic speed, so that it hurts the ears, if the engine does not have an exhaust system to dampen these shocks
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What you want is the exact opposite of the bladder tank because the water pressure compresses the air inside the tank to provide the water pressure. However, It would work if instead of air pressure, you put a vacuum in the air side of the tank to pull the bladder up but not so much that the engine draw couldn’t draw it back down. Ideally it is very close to equilibrium because the engine draw is only 1/4 of the time, so you are trying to spread the gasifier draw over all 4 cycles.
Since you really only need the amount of gas being used per cycle, if the gas temp was low enough, a plastic bag would work hanging off the bottom, with a washer or something in it for a little bit of weight.
And you would probably want a check valve to prevent the air being drawn in from the carb side.
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Jenbacher makes me think, gray cast iron welding, new bronze valve seat, I don’t know how it will work,… 
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Tone, are valve seats usualy bronze?
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Kristjan, with an aluminum engine head, metal seats are usually inserted, because the aluminum itself is too soft, but with a cast iron head, there are no inserted seats, the valve seat is made in the head itself. There was a thin crack in such a head, which was probably caused by the expansion of the combustion chamber, at first I didn’t think to fix it, but when I looked closely, the crack continued through the valve seat as well. This bronze bushing was just the right size, but I used it, but I don’t know if bronze will work well here.
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Sealing in the gasifier, sealing in the engine,… essential for good operation,… I assembled the engine head and made two copper gaskets, the first gasket fits the slightly raised edge of the engine block, and the second fits the diameter of the cylinder. before assembly, I heated the seals to make them soft, I also used Viktor Renz sealant.
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tone, fascinating what you do…how thick is the copper sheet?
the two gaskets are reducing compression ratio?
or they make the gasket more “soft” - better thightening?
always a lot of questions from my side, you know…
we planted onions and garlic today, and in the afternoon 5 hours tillering, with chargas of course…the weeds otherwise overwhelms all…
ciao giorgio
with you as neighbour we would stay the whole year in the workshop…
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Hello Giorgio, now we are three neighbors, Goran, you and I, I think we would work together very well.
Head gaskets on newer engines are made of several layers of thin metal, where some areas are coated with a thin layer of sealing compound, well, I used copper sheet 0.6 mm in two layers, I think it will seal well.
Below is a picture of the oil filter wire, where I have to fix the wire winding, Giorgio, Fiat also has a similar filter.
Here I have added an axis that is mounted on the handle of the centrifugal regulator, this will serve to open the gas.
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Wow Tone, it looks like factory work! Axis is turning I presume.
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I really admire your work Tone, 
Are you going to rebuild that filter? Seems better to replace it with a better used one, or put in a more modern type?
Ofcourse these filters are “eternal” if they dont break, i got almost exactly the same on my old Volvo Viking truck, the cleaning/turn handle is turned by a linkage from the clutch, everytime you hit the clutch pedal, it scrapes the filter.
On my friends Deutz powered Atlas copco compressor, the relief regulator lower the engine rpm with a small air cylinder, the same cylinder turns the oil filter.
They where pretty clever in the old days.
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Neighbor Janez came to visit, Janbacher is idle, and we warm ourselves with blueberries
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that is FUN. With capitals. And it can keep doing this for the next 50 years
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I think nothing surpasses the nice cadence of a slow running engine. Thanks for the video Tone.
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Here is another video for my “neighbors” who were with me in my workshop, well, Mr. Don will probably find some interesting detail, and JO usually always has some interesting comment,… greetings to all, Tone.
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