Properties of a good wood gasifier

Well Mr. Tone, seeing as how you asked, the interesting detail I noticed this time was the fine stone work not normally seen on workshop walls.
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Pressure is on…:thinking:
First of all @don_mannes - you do remember Kristijan told us Tone lives in a castle :smile:
Second - if that was my engine I would probably crank it up now and then just to listen to it.

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Tone I suggest you a Automotive flame arrester where the strange red shape is. This a very old device. There are many types.

Automotive flame arrester
OER Air Cleaner Flame Arrester 1955-1971 Camaro Chevelle Nova Bel Air Truck

Davy lamp for coal mines
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Any way for that crank handle to kick back? Plenty of broken wrists and arms from the days of the Model T. Even the kick starter on a Harley can launch a good sized man over the handlebars. Maybe an exaggeration but I’ve done plenty of limping around when one fought back. :face_with_head_bandage:

I’d like to see how your heating yourself with blueberries. I always find it’s a bitch to keep them burning. :crazy_face:

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Yes, the crank handle was the first thing I removed from the Lister. He tried to break my wrist now that cant happen :grinning:. It the Jenbach will try the same, probably the handle will break instead of Tone s wrist.

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Im pretty sure Tone would hold back this engine if it tries to backfire :smiley:
Worst crank-starts are engine with no support for the crank, in that case, when engine starts, it kicks the crank out the flywheel tap, the crank spins around its handle instead, close to the speed of light, and definitively will hit you in the face, the best solution is to try save your teeht, because they are pretty expensive to repair, a big, meaty, nose is a good air-bag for the crank, it usually only bleeds for some hours.
And it gives you new, interesting look, everytime you start your engine.
And always remember ignition retard/advanced lever…in “start” position. :woozy_face:

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It’s not good to joke with this engine, 1.8 l working volume, high compression ratio (now it has approx. 1:14),… well, if we rev the engine well when starting, there is no fear of kickback, the flywheels weigh approx. 150 kg, there is no but it is recommended to lower the start lever if the engine is turned slowly :grin:

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tom, i think warming up with blueberries is a synonym for the green bottle on the table…
the rest i let your fantasy combining…
we have the same green bottle got from a good friend, but plums, excellent…

argument of kick back with hand cranking…the fiat magneto impulse coupling is built in a way that it has automatically ignition retard a bit after upper highest point…
so i think there a kickback cannot happen??

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Hi Tone, surprisingly similar specifications to my Made-in-India Lister-clone CS engine.
Each flywheel was 150 pounds. The iron piston 5 1/16" bore. 4 1/2" stroke.

I see you use an external cranking handle support. Smart. Allowing two handed full grunting. Restraining uncontrolled cranking handle flights.
On the CS engines there was a pivoting valve lifter control. Preset holding open the exhaust valve for winding up the cranking speed for good carrying over thru the cycles once the fuel allow injector was enabled.
Ha! One hand had to be removed from the cranking handle to first flip on fuel enable; then flip out the valve hold opener.
Never a kick back because of the double features of the compression release, and fuel dis-able-enable allowing good cranking speed building up first.
The CS system the cranking handle slid onto the extended out crank shaft and engaged with an internal spring plunger into the keyway groove in the round smooth crankshaft stub.
My worry was if I ever could not pull off the cranking handle from the shaft and get beat bloody after engine starting and RPM increasing. Each and every use, I cleaned and light oil lubed up that cranking handle bore and engagement plunger. A lazy fellow leaving out in the rain . . . letting it; and/or the crankshaft stub get dirty, rusty, crude’d up; could get hurt real badly.

Enjoy your big oversize “sewing machine”. Once you sound dampen the exhaust what these big slow singles sound like to me.
Steve unruh

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You’re right about the impulse coupling Giorgio, they advance the ignition as soon they starts, and rev’s increase.
I had an old Volvo tractor with impulse magneto, and 6volt electric starter, as 6 volt batteries are more expensive around here, i used what i had, a 12 volt car battery, got really good rev’s on the starter, but too high, the impulse coupler locked in run, some backfires that almost stopped the starter, but it worked good enough.

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Today I started this “sewing machine” again, I tested how it works on propane with a diesel fuel limit, well, it behaves very well. I realized that I had not foreseen the possibility to shut off or limit the diesel fuel injection, while the centrifugal regulator would still work and control the throttle. I took off the left flywheel and the side cover and set about reworking the injection control lever,… it won’t be a particularly demanding operation, but it will take time.
Here is a picture of a “restored” oil filter where I used stainless steel wire, I thought I could make a similar gas filter where I filled the inside of the wire coil with sheep’s wool.

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Is there anything you can’t do?

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He’s keeping me pretty amazed on a regular basis Don. The problem with me and this site is that I’m not used to being the stupidest guy in the neighborhood.

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Another wow. You did that on the lathe? A very very versatile tool!

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Tom you’ve definitely got a wheelhouse here when it comes to greenhouses.

But I agree, Tone never ceases to amaze me. A modern day Renaissance Man.

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It is pretty obvious that Tone’s living-philosophy is, “If it is to be; it is up to me.”

Something we should all strive for.
S.U.

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Making a piece, for which I partially disassembled the engine again.

Picture of the original part and the new one

the picture shows the position of the diesel pump lever and the gas lever in the max position

The raised position of the diesel pump lever in the stop position and the throttle lever in the max position

The position when the gas valve is closed and the diesel pump is in the stop position

Now the throttle lever has the ability to move even when the diesel pump is in the stop position

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Here is another interesting engine of the German production Hatz, interesting not only for its robust construction, but also for the spherical shape of the combustion chamber in the piston. This method is called the “M” process, due to the spherical shape of the combustion chamber, which results in minimal heat loss to the housing, it represents a very good fuel efficiency. I am also attaching pictures of the diesel pump and the speed control lever, which can be used to control the throttle,…

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thanks tone for the detail fotos, i can always learn a lot…
is the motor new in your collection?
from what engine is the motor?
ciao giorgio

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greetings Giorgio, I have had this engine at home for several years, it was given to me by a friend who changed it on his vibro plate for treading the ground, it has a bad diesel pump, which was the reason for the change. The engine has a working volume of 275 cc and a power of 5hp at 3000 rpm, it would be very interesting to drive a smaller generator for field work, well, first I will complete the modifications on the Jenbacher engine, the installation of the magnets on the flywheel and the installation of the ignition coil. I also need to make a gas mixer with a reverse effect, I have a similar one installed on the Fergi and it works well. it is especially pronounced at low speeds, I recommend using,…

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