The slickest set up I’ve seen was built by a guy that used to be on a homesteading site I’m on. He had a one inch all-thread rod from his saw head through a nut welded to the cross bar of his uprights. The threaded rod had a sprocket with a chain that ran to another sprocket with a small high torque reversing motor that raised and lowered the saw head. Infinitely adjustable.
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Thanks for all the pictures, I have saved them so I have them left. What a nice location for the cottage you are building, you can sit on the porch and fish.
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Yes, I looked at these, would probably also work well.
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Ha ha. Now I figured out how I can’t stop. My truck for hauling logs to the mill.
Here is my mill with a bigger log than I usually cut.
This is the biggest nicest yellow cedar I have ever seen. Came across at work a couple years ago.
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Good, pictures say a lot, nice sawmill, so there Logosol made its first sawmill, (a Swedish company), it will not be unstable in the outer end?
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I got lucky. A friend of mine bought it off his neighbor . He was a farmer that bought it new and ran it for a couple hundred hours and then it sat in his field with trees growing up through it. I had a smaller version but sold it when I bought this one and put a Honda on it and cut lots with it. Wood Mizer have made these cantilever mills since 1982 and they work well especially if you keep the blade sharp. They are starting to sell more 4 post mills now. I saw the logs you have cut at your place. What size boards are you cutting for your big order? I mostly cut 25x150, 25x200, 50x150 and 50x200.
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I sell the large pile of timber as it is to a sawmill, I do not have sales for so many boards.
50-60 logs I will saw boards off, a guy will re-board his holiday cottage, so it will be 25x120 and 25x 150 and 25x 45mm,
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Do you sell by the cubic meter? Our hemlock and spruce is about $80 / m^3 but red cedar is $250 for pulp and $400 for good sawlogs.
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I’m not familiar with what those numbers mean. 25x150?
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Tom, 25×150mm = 1"6.
A store bought (planed) 1"6 is 20×145mm though.
Personally I try to saw my lumber as close to store bought dimensions as possible. Only a couple mm more to allow for drying.
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Yes, we sell per cubic meter top measured, we get about SEK 800 (86 dollars) per cubic meter for the best pine wood, spruce is around SEK 650 ($ 70) cubic meter
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Jan; Don’t you have to "“plain” the boards to get them to dimension? TomC
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Tom, most of the time not needed. Depends on what they will be used for.
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How much do you usually put on when it will be 22x 145mm?
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Depends what the log looks like. A 40 yo sawlog will shrink maybe 5%. An 80 yo log only 1 or 2%. Also they shrink more across the annual rings than along them. As a general rule I add 1mm to the thickness of the board and 5mm to the width.
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I have never seen lumber measured in cubic feet or meters, always board feet. I always mill to the true inch and plane to the normal 3/4 size if I want to use it for a project.
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Same here Tom. I shoot for 1 and 2 inch thick and up to 1/8 over and 1/16 under. Mostly for decks, fences and rough framing lumber. I mostly cut red and yellow cedar, a bit of fir, some hemlock, a bunch of red alder and some yew when I can get it. I took a course and am able to grade lumber but never really use it. More than 60% of what I cut I use myself. The house I am building now I am not going through the bank or insurance companies so I can build to my standards not theirs. I can see the regulations coming but they are not in our little community yet.
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