I bought a planer, but do not know if it is necessary to plan the outer panel, it depends on what dimensions the saw can hold, 1 “x2” I think I have to plan, because it should have a profiled edge.
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Not sure what you mean by plane the outer panel. I usually only plane inside lumber. If your blade is sharp your lumber should be pretty smooth with a bandsaw.
I just had a thought. I will take a picture of my tablesaw tomorrow. I think you will like it.
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My customer wants 1 “x5” or 1 “x6” at the bottom and 1 “x2” on the outside, so it must not differ so much in the thickness of the inner boards
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It was not many years into my building business that I would refuse to bid remodels on the old houses. All rough sawn framing and not always cut to the same dimensions. They leveled everything out with wooden lathe and plaster. When you try to match that with dry wall you start to lose your ass quickly. Did a fair share where the framing was installed as green oak. After it seasoned in the wall for a hundred years you had to drill holes to get nails into it.
What brand of planer do you have Jan? I bought a Ryobi last summer to replace a Rigid I burned up but It’s still sitting in the box. We got hit with some kind of disease in the fall and I was putting up fire wood before that so by the time I got recovered it was too late to do much lumber. Nice looking wall.
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I have a Logosol 3 cutter planer, I can plan 3 sides at the same time.
I bought it used and have only started it, only test planed, got with a large extraction stain as well.
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Oh, I see. You have a planer. I have this toy.
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I looked at one like that too, but wanted something that I could make a planer groove with as well.
(Is it called groov when you can make grooves so you can put boards together?)
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Yes I would say groove. Like Tongue and Groove.
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Another name I know tongue and groove by is shiplap
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Ah Jan. We call that board and batten. I use that style a lot as it is easy to change out one board if you need to or replace a window. I usually cut the boards 1x8 and the battens 3/4x2 so they are less blocky and don’t throw such a deep shadow.
Marcus, tongue and groove is slightly different than shiplap.
That is one nice planer. I have a 16" with a spiral cutterhead. It takes a bit more power but is quieter and the little cutters are carbide and last a long time and can be rotated if nicked.
This is for the angle grinder. The two plates sandwich the circle of chain. It is a pain getting the plates the right size but after that easy to make chain for and switch out.
A big one for the table saw.
And one for the trimmer.
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1 “x8”, do not these crack when they become so wide?
We almost never make boards over 1 “x6”.
Yes, that’s what I mean, tongue and groove.
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Western Red Cedar is the go to board for siding. It is so soft and light and dry that it usually does not crack. It is also very rot resistant because of the tannins in the wood. They can bleed through most stains however…
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https://www.logosol.com/store/moulders/ch3-multi-head-planer/
I know you said you got yours used. Still had to be a hefty stack of Krona. Just something else for me to envy.
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Yes, it cost a bit, but I think I was lucky, had to buy the planer and a stain like this for SEK 15,000, (1600 dollars) usually costs more.
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Well the new one in the link listed for 7900 euro. Yours looks like new so you are a shrew shopper and a lucky SOB . Lucky SOB isn’t an insult here. Dirty SOB would be.
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Money in the bank, happy customers and friends and motor fuel to spare, you just can’t go wrong Wayne!
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It must be a great feeling to have people pay you to make fuel for your trucks and tractor. I know you don’t let them know this out loud but it must give you that good feeling when they bring those big logs in and they pay you to cut them up.
Bob
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Don’t remember if I posted this video before, but another big youtuber I watch from out in Oregon, and now he has a update video on the mill he made when he was just 22 years old, now owned and operated by a friend
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