Thank you Mr. Wayne, I have a good example,ā¦
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Great job Tone.
Here is a good article explaining why most Peaveyās have a steel spike end. Versus a Cant-Hook with an end socket with a side-tooth.
https://woodmizer.com/us/Log-Peaveys
Oh yeah. Wooden handles are better overall. Not so gets hot in the sunshine. Not so cold hands chilling in the winter cold. And a work-limiter telling you to back off.
Best Regards
Steve Unruh
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It is nice work. I have a twinge of jealousy because I could use one. But that vice in worse condition is 500 bucks, and the anvil is probably 300. 
I am waiting until the tv show āforged in fireā starts to lose popularityā¦ It sparked a resurgence in forging so prices skyrocketed along with it.
But as far as being from the storeā¦ I was going to say you have a 130 dollar piece of equipment, but you are missing the steel tip and shaft cover for a proper peavy 
Of course being in europe, you are probably not allowed to have a steel pointy tip so with the european mark up for safety, and quality it is probably a 300 dollars each in the store.
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Been real busy trying to get caught up on some saw milling .
Seems the older I get the heaver the logs are 
Much rather be riding in the wood burner
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That is just your mind playing tricks on you, they appear to get much lighter after you spend a few minutes with them, even the one in the last picture already lost 20lbs on the WK diet! thus you would be older and they got lighter.
But yes it is a lot of work, I am more surprised you arenāt working on a new tool to help you out. But maybe your wife didnāt want you to take a drive, because she is afraid of what you would come home with.
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nice logs you have for your nice sawmillā¦i wish i would also have construction wood like that hereā¦we have only firewood quality hereā¦not easy for a joinerā¦
ciao giorgio
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testing the saw
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Wow, that is so cool! I really have to visit you and Kristian some day.
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Hello Tone . Thanks for the video , looks like you have it going your way.
The wife usually off bears for me but she complained about these 4 inch X 12 inch beams .
We came up with something to help a little and save on the back 
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Mr. Wayne, I love simple solutions, you make everything look so easy, but I know that working on a saw is not easy, let alone easy, all the wood goes through your hands many times. 
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Who isnt strong has to be smart! I use the same method some times and it still surprises me how easy it rolls no mather the load.
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Hello Joep .
I wish I possessed at least one of those qualities 
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Haha, are you kidding? For sure I dont dare to armwrestle. I have seen your hands in the vidsš. If my father had hands like that I would have listened a lot betterā¦
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So, your carriage is self powered? I have to push mine by hand. I also push wedges just behind the kerf to lessen any friction on the blade, plus I feed a lot of water on the blade to keep it cool. One of these days Iām going to saw a fresh log. That is a nice machine Tone. Well worth the price.
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Good morning Mr. Tom .
Something doesnāt sound right . Maybe not enough set on the teeth . The body of the blade should not be in contact with the wood , only the teeth.
I have never had a blade to get hot even without water.
I do drip soapy water on my blade but to keep sap from forming on it .
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Iām sure you are right Wayne. Iām a pretty inexperienced Sawyer. I only saw maybe a few hundred board foot a year when I have a need for wood and sometimes none at all. Itās all older Ash that has been standing dead for quite a while now. Just starting to gather up some Maple logs. I just built the thing as another path to being self sufficient. I usually put the Riving Knife on my table saws and I figured the wedges would act the same way. I just read somewhere that watering the blade was a good thing and itās free. It has been recommended to me to soak the logs somehow before I cut them but that seems like a whole lot of messing around but anyone who says and old dog canāt learn new tricks is wrong.
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Hi Tom,
It is pretty important to have the right amount of set in the blades. There is a lot of valuable information on The Forestry Forum. My reading and experience is that there should be 50% air and 50% sawdust spilling off the gullet of the blade to stabilize and cool the blade in the kerf. If there is not enough set it shows up as hard packed dust on the boards. I am always feeling the exit sawdust and if it is cool and crumbly everything is good but as the blade gets dull it will be warm and fine dust or real stringy. I set more for soft wood and less for hardwoods. Wet logs saw better which is why they had log ponds. I never use water but should to keep the blade cooler. I read somewhere that blade tip temperature reaches 700 degrees but havenāt confirmed that. For pitchy logs I give the blade a squirt of 50% diesel and 50% chain oil and it helps. My two cents.
Buzz
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My grandfather and my uncle John were both trained as carpenters in Netherlands before WWII. They taught me that hardwood logs should be soaked in a pond for a year to leach out any sugar in the wood. This would allow the wood not to warp or otherwise change shape after it was milled.
RIndert
See 8:30 to 8:45
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Thanks Rindert, enjoyed it. Compare that technics to a Raspberry Pi
It seems that the windmils made the Golden Age happen. Because we could build ships faster we were able to conquer the world ( or rob the world, some people are still angry about it). Anyway, it is the start of big economic growth.
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