I think but might be mistaken that you are now part of the black hand and face part of the DOW.
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I think the margin of error in your asumption is rather low 
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As long as nobody starts singing any Al Jolson we’ll be alright 
I think the only upside for having this mask mandate is I always have my denim mask in my pocket so I’m breathing in a lot less dust now.
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Hi Kristijan
I am rereading and I am not sure I fully understand.
if the distance from the nozzle to the grid is too short then the gas comes out too hot and reduction incomplete?
if the distance from the nozzle to the grate is too long, then there is an accumulation of charcoal, ash on the grate and progressive clogging of the gas ?
Thierry
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Yes with a distance that is too short you run the risk of either burning through the grate and your gas is too hot.
If you have a bunch of unburned charcoal at the bottom then the ash will want to plug up down there.
I think i hit a sweet spot with my reactor, I noticed in the grate that there is bluing discoloration from heat but no serious damage from heat. And that was with overpulling with the big bilge blower I have. About 9 or 10 inches seems best in my case.
My grate sits on a shelf made of angle iron, so it can vibrate from motion, and I have about 4 inches of space between the grate and the very bottom so ash has a way to get broken loose.
I’m using expanded sheet metal layered up for my grate.
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I think that for stationary units running say a generator 10 inches would be fine as long as maybe a little vibration could be induced onto the gasifier body to help shake ash ect through the grate , when i tried my downdraught using a single flute nozzle pointing down and about 8 inches from the exit i had very hot and weak gas , my thinking was it needs a longer dwell time inside the reactor to to help fully reduction and to cool down .
think about your up draught units and when they are running low on charcoal without enough above the nozzle the gas gets a lot hotter and weaker , my next attempt will have a adjustable height nozzle to help tune in the best distance .
Dave
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Time for a up date on this project.
The bottom and sides are all welded up.
The side hatch is finish with the stove rope in place the rope will be impregnated with red high temperature silicone and glued into the slot by compression. I need to finish the side bolting down system that I use so it will not leak.
This is part of the stainless steel shielding that will have ceramic wool on the out side of it to block in the heat. It worked really well in my other charcoal gasifer. There will be shielding on all four side going down to the restriction opening.
The nozzles can be turned upwards, across and downwards to achieve the best burning angle for the nozzles. And the grate can be moved up to 9" to 11" from the center of the opening of the nozzles.
Looking down into the gasifer there will be ceramic wool on the walls with stainless steel shielding, pretty much a straight square tube down with ashes at the restriction opening on top.
More stove rope for the slot that the hopper assembly will bolt down to the top of the gasifer unit.
The hopper spacer.
This is the test hopper not the final one that will be built with a auto feed going into the top of the hopper. It will come from my old charcoal gasifer barrel. I am hoping to have a 150 mile range on this unit when it is finished. Running a 318 cu. in. Engine to a 440 cu. in. Engine. We will see, I always set my goals high expectations to the sky high limits. It’s how I am wired and God made me. So far I like it.
Will it melt down I hope not. It will have water injection in the flute nozzles if needed. And planning on running with moisture in the charcoal hopper. I want to make as much Hydrogen gas as possible and Carbon monoxide.
The retort is about ready to fire up, but the fire restiction here is still high. Praying for rain to bring it down for our State.
Bob
Edit: 4 hours later, the sky is getting dark with heat lightning and it is raining and more dark clouds are coming, let it rain upon the dry earth.
Bob
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I put the 1" stove rope in a bag and three tubes of red high temperature silicone seal the bag and work the silicone real good into the stove rope. Squeezed 1 more tube into channel where the stove rope will lay put the stove rope into the channel. I had previously had it cut to fit. I laid plastic wrap over the part that the stove rope will seal to and bolted it down tight, leaving about a 1/4" to bolt down tighter if needed. It will now cure for a day or two. Mean while I will start working on the test hopper and figure out how to attach my variable gate cyclone filter. Also build this new filter that will go inside of the cyclone like Kristijan has done.
Bob
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Bob when you wind yourself up you really let it fly! Can’t wait to see how this one tests out.
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Yes I need a 72 hour day to work 6 days a week. Been busy with my bees. Building hives and frames. I 'm caught up on that for the moment. Got to finish up my project on the 92 Dakota truck, I want to drive it to Kent For The Washington State Wood Gas Meet Up at Mike’s place on September 3rd and 4th. That’s the plan.
Bob
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I would have to say that was the most difficult welding I have ever done on rusty old thin metal barrel. After cleaning the rust off to weld it, there was only paper thin metal in places. At my lowest welder setting 0.025 wire, I was burning through the metal. I managed to get the barrel stitched welded all the way around solid.
The rest of the welding for the box into the gasifer was easy. The bottom plate for the hopper came off my first brick lined rocket stove at is now my retort. The plate held the bricks in place at the top. I just keep finding junk to build this gasifer with.
I will just full the pin holes in with some silicone inside the hopper at the bottom and on the out side.
Next is the hopper lid seal, the secure bolt downs for the hopper to the gasifer and rope silicone seal.
Break time and maybe a nap.
Bob
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Doesn’t look like it would help help you here Bob but when welding thin metal I often use a brake shoe or pad to back up the weld just so the metal can’t drop away. I’ve see guys us copper and brass for the same purpose, but the brake shoe will work best in curved spaces.
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That was a good nap. Worked on Finishing the hopper lid seal.
I took 1" stove rope cut to fit, after pulling the inside core stove rope out of the middle. Now I have a extra piece of 1/2" stove rope. This will let the stove rope lay more flat. I put it in a bag with clear 100% silicone and worked through the stove rope. Get all the air out of the bag and seal It tight. It takes about 15 minutes. There is no air inside the bag so let it sit for 10 minutes and then worked it some more. A hole tube of silicone worked really good thought the stove rope. I will say it again make sure you have gloves on when going this and out side it smells.
This is the really messy part now did I mention to wear gloves?
Pull it out of the bag, this is the sticky messy part try not to get it all over your lid. Put it around on the inside edge of the lid, you will have to work with it to get it the way you want it. Did I mention to where gloves. Lol.
I like to put some plastic film over it. In stead of using grease on the other part of the barrel rim.
Set the barrel on top of the stove rope. Get it where you want it. Check the inside to make sure the barrel rim is on the seal all the way around.
Add lots of weight on top to press it down into the stove rope.
Let it cure for a day. I used about three or four pair of gloves and my hands are clean.
One other thing before you put the silicone stove rope in place make sure the surface is clean of rust, dirt, grease, so the stove rope seal will be good and stuck in place.
Mark the barrel and lid. I will put some kind of hinge on it so it will close on the same spot for a good seal.
Next the hopper bottom to gasifer silicone rope seal. That have to wait for tomorrow.
Bob
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Looking good Bob, will be no time at all
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And Bob is doing this in 100+ degree weather
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The weather just turn for the good as the sun set this evening a cool breeze and it looks like party cloudy and clear sky at times tomorrow.
I could look straight at the sun today at times because of the smoke in the air. It was a dim orange.
The sun is set and this is a new day with no mistakes in it yet.
Bob
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Most certainly not! Keep them coming, we enjoy them wery much.
There is a strong woodgas spirit in the air nowdays… A international one! Sometimes l can barely wait to check all the progres that DOERS make here lately
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I check back every ten minutes lately with all the builds going on trying to keep up 
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I still making progress.
I cut the stainless steel shield a and fit it in place.
Then I fill the space behind it with ceramic wool and place the shield back in place. This material came out of my other charcoal gasifer. It lasted the heat of he’ll there with very little warping, hope it goes well in this gasifer.
I cut a small stainless steel plate with ceramic wool behind it because there is a transition in the wall where the gases come back up from the ash pit below, then out the side of the gasifer box. It is kinda a ash drop area and out from there it will go to the variable gate cyclone and filter. The sides shield is in place more ceramic wool will be placed behind it.
Bob
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