yeah I dont know. Im trying to keep it simple and just use my cheap ol Harbor Freight Chipper. If it dont work Ill make it work. I cant afford a rebak so the HF chipper will have to work for me.
A hammer mill is as simple as it looks dont over complicate it. Try building just like in the videos. If it dont work try different chains or something. Maybe chainsaw chain?
Another thing you can build is whats called a crumbler. It is sort of like those shredding machines you see. but this works with smaller blades like in a circular saw. In fact if I build one that is what I will be using. These would turn anything to small fine shreds with very low energy consumption as they are slow turning. Ive built these for another company Ive worked for in the past. Kinda like a paper shredder on steroids.
That looks like a cool shedder, if the blades were easy too remove as posible, and able too sharpen and reinstall with thin washers if needed too maintain proper blade tight clearences.
That sounds like it might work better at high speed too make small enough wood particle too fall down in those pellot holes, if the chips dont fly around.
Maybe slow would be better. Probly only need about 6 inch shafts. Good luck with that refinement tool. I been wanting too buy one of them saw blade sharpeners for ever, those aluminum ones might not be too bad.I think the 160$ ones.
Trying to catch up reading this thread and I see my name mentioned.
I general, if harvested before sap and then cut and split as soon as possible, drying firewood is not a problem. Air is usually very dry in late winter, spring and early summer. In July moisture starts picking up and early mornings in August can be dripping wet even with a blue sky.
There’s an old saying firewood prepping has to be over with before Midsummer holidays. I would rather say May at the latest. The earlier the better, to take advantage of springtime dry air.
I agree for the energy end of practicle, though on the other end, say you have easy access too wood chips year round for free . then that solves the wood sourse problem, if it can be hammer milled screened and pelitized, still way ahead of when gas prices skyrocket.The next resesstion could be varry bad, Everybody and there brother looking for wood too stay warm. the wood chips will only be usable too those that were set up before the banks closed, Or just supper high fuel prices. The density of the pellots looks WORTH $$$$$!!!$ tuneing too use.?? Or even as an alteritive too wood chunks for back up reserve fuel choice part time untill needed.
That and you have to have the space. If our township saw a pile of chips on the property they would be here in a heart beat taking pictures and sending nasty mail saying Get Rid of iT!!.
They are @$$ holes. It would be ok for a while as far as they know they could be for landscaping. But after a while it would not fly, unless the property is commercial and this is from the commercial use of the property.
Some townships are better than others. Where my business first started out we could not get away with anything. They tried to make me re zone as industustrial based on my hobby sized CNC machine. Like Im poring multant metal in a foundry or something. .Idiots!!
Well, I’m going to stay right where I’m at then. I have a #20 crucible and green sand mold making operation. I can, and many times have poured twenty pounds of aluminum. A neighbor once asked me if I had a “blast furnace”. I just said yup, and showed it to him. I put up with his 6 or 8 dogs barking almost every time I do anything in the back yard, so… Maybe people here are just a little more ‘laid back’. I remember thinking so when I first moved here.
If a person liveing in the city, large yard 1/2 accer range fenced in yard with stock aid fence like they allow for pot heads too grow marjiwona. no afence too the indeans,and say they built or bought a large enclosed uhaul size trailer 30 foot by 8’ and filled it up with wood chips while chips were dry, how long would they last till rotting, it would be easyer too just Build a heavy duty REBAK CHUNKER AND BE GOOD TOO GO,stack it in bens too dry and be done ready too roll in Couple mounths of wood ahead, Could allso be burned in a fire place if needed.The only way too be worth pelloting for me would be if i could make the good case hardend dies myself. Dont know how too make them dies or what tools needed.?
Hi matt R is this a toltal redesign change over from your earlyer models, what the main gain on this model from the other models may i ask. just curious & caint remember half what i read.
This gets away from roll forming processes and parts reduction. Eliminates the expensive SS cover shrouds, while opening up the unit so it can breath better. This model the liquid cooled gas chiller is eliminated, the auger feed is eliminated, the CHP is eliminated, the mid divider section is eliminated. Its design is cleaner and simpler and will help standard the build process.
CHP will come as an add on system reclaiming engine exhaust. The gas chiller can also be bought as an add on only if used for CHP. All the pumps and chiller systems added too much cost driving it beyond what the market is willing to pay.
Client: How Much!!!
Me: $18,000.00
Client: $18,000.00 !!! For 5 kW output!!!
Me: Yeah dont forget the 18 kW CHP system?
Client: ?
Yeah so not going down that road, they want all that but dont want to pay the extra cost and only view the electrical output and dismiss the heat energy reclaim systems that add a ton of cost.
There is a Try pillar design coming as well. This will replace the Utility / Works units. Im going to bower this design and build a try pillar stand alone gasifier system in this same format. So all new units will follow the same basic format and foundations.