Andy,
I thought about doing that, but wasn’t sure it would help. I guess I’ll go ahead and do it now.
Rindert
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it is air dry. The fancy ones use heated water and a hot air dry. Some might also have a heated seat. Perfect for the hunting cabin. there are some ‘cheaper’ ones that just replace the seat.
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Yes .
Water temp and flow / pressure can also be adjusted on the go . 
OH by the way , what does a roll of paper go for nowadays ?
7 Likes
I was just going to say ‘happy wife, happy life’, but I think you may have explained why your wife is happy. 
6 Likes
Gee Wayne. That gives a whole new meaning to the word cowlick. I just thought it was unruly hair. 
5 Likes
Hi All
I am sure now many are tired of my DIY change-tires, posts.
I now have two ways that will work for me:
#3 Way. Always as a fall-back of just using manually spoons-tools/bar-tools on the ground. Works on almost any wheel and tire combination. Best with a younger, limber body. Because later I’ll need a handful of pain pills.
#1 Way now for me - my works very well No-Mar de-mounter/installer bar tool on the waist-high Harbor Freight post stand.
Now, I still intend to develop if at all possible the way by just grind modifying the supplied Chinese bar to be able to complete installs without the extreme full-body forcing.
That #2 Way is still a fail.
Anyone having done commercial wheels and tires work with any of the Coats brand 2020’s; 3030’s and 4040’s machines and others; knows this can be done easy-pleasie. Quick-quick.
I load up and now in detail study the videos in-use of their installer bars end forms.
I will not bore you with these. As a straight-on, flat, center slot stabilized bar system; probably not applicable to my offset round bar.
But this older Coats system bar end is:
Neat top de-beader wouldn’t you say? A sharp fellow could duplicate that and get the de-beading up off the ground, up to waist height too. With No more extreme flexing of the bottom post mounting.
Those older Coats machine systems I quoted were super ergonomic and time/labor saving as possible, as you only had to lift up and set the wheel and tire on one time and that was it.
De-beading done both top and bottom simaltiously. With good-smooth learned techniques it was only two tool-sets and rotations to off the tire. Most of the time only one tool-set; one-rotation to install. Allowed you to use leg thigh pressure and both hands for tire slip-rotation locking and deep drop center positioning.
Later developed for assured safe non-marring for aluminum wheels and narrow stiff sidewalls in the low profiles moderns, all make you wheel and tires handle work much more:
I’ve used this machine. A “Rim-Lock” system. Works O.K. fine.
And use another rim-lock machine system where the wheel was bed held stationary and the duck-head tool post power rotated around that held stationary wheel.
Ha! Spoiled with $$,$$$ machine systems, and power. Goren and others know this too.
“Collapse back; Now. Avoid the Rush.” David Baillie
S.U.
Note: Edit added a second short video. S.U.
9 Likes
I have used a little starting fluid sprayed inside a tire to seal it on a wheel rim by lighting it. But I think you have over done it on the spray on this one Bruce.
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He got hungry working on that tire and decided to sear a moose steak, Bob. That’s just how they do things up in the Keweenaw. They learned that from Paul Bunyan. 
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Yep. Yep. BruceJ.
Control the fuel type and amount and I’ll bet you do not even too much damage the tire or the wheel de-beading an old stiff rust locked one.
Is that straight gasoline? Kerosene? A mix?
Use a shovel tip to force down the heated softened bead?
Can’t show this picture to my wife. She’ll quote me fond old memories of her early hippy days up in the hills, wet-wintertime, burning a tire for long heat, smoking and joking.
Ha! And she presents so conservative, and staid now.
Funny how burning rubber tire smells can bring back old memories. Mine would be wet season burning down post logging debris piles. A November wet season Elk hunting time thing. Makes my mouth water thinking of fresh tender pan seared backstrap meat.
Others with burning rubber war memories - not so good, taken back to a bad time.
Steve unruh
6 Likes
It was gasoline that I used for a solvent to clean a Quadrajet, mixed with some wet motor oil from 371 with bad O-rings (head).
It’s a jeep/scout rim, the old five lug w/wide center hole. I have a weird old trailer axle that takes this size with a little extra alignment hole. I have been dinking around with this tire since last spring. I really do need to get on with it and get the trailer rolling again.
Which valve stem changing tool do you use? I am thinking about getting the one from Amazon.
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For BruceJ. a tip/trick:
Tight screw a new or cutout used/removed valve stem onto one of these little four-way tools makes then handleable for us old and arthritic.
S.U.
12 Likes
I achieved a grinding-only modification on the Chinese Harbor Freight install bar end today to make it one hand workable. No video camera here, so stills shots:
My first segment turning in. I’d guess taking ~40 pounds of force:
Note the yellow paint dot on the wheel rim. Note the feed-in angle of the still up and out bead into the tool head end.
Next turning segment:
Past the yellow dot; just passing the valve stem. It was starting to pull too hard. I stopped and saw that the tire sidewall was humping up causing tool drag. Spritzed some bottle spray, to lube the sidewall. All up to here, was done with only one hand pulling.
I needed both hands to hold and trigger my laptops camera, so confident then I’d licked the bar twisting problem; from then on I was belly/hip pushed the bar around:
Almost done. See the little segment unmounted still on top of the rim edge.
Ha! I was leaning way over for a camera angle trying for one more picture and I hipped it too hard (resistance had dramatically decreased) and it popped down-in completed, waiting for this cameras slow 3-seconds shutter release.
So how did I grind modify . . .
View is bar rotated 180 to show the hook side.
First the underside has to be made flattened to stabilize the bar from twisting.
Then hook groove opened up to a true U from the original rough fordged Vee shape. And that U slightly concaved to follow a rims edge curvature.
The U opened up grind channel must be biased at ~11 degrees from the shaft and heads centerline.
This will give you a stabilized three points of rim edge contact.
See the yellow wax crayon showing this ~11 degrees. I chose to bias for clockwise installing to match a duckheads install direction.
Then the bar end face needs to be ground ~30 degrees on the lead-in side from the shaft center-line. And ground with a shallow diagonal valley across the face as the tire beads guiding channel. Tire bead sliding across pressuring inwards locks the tool head into place.
I still would not use this bar on any alloy wheels you love. Even with plastic sleeving those do wear fast and you will wear through halfway done with a set of four wheels and scratch/gouge soft alloy metal.
Make up the nylon duckhead for those.
I’ll use my No-Mar bar on the Wife’s factory alloy fancies.
But for DIY’ers no reason to not grind modifying your forged steel bar to workable on your steel wheels.
A challenge-growth to become a better free-hand grinder guy. Or remind yourself that you do still got-it. Show the Youngers that old-school free-hand metals forming, still can kick some ass.
S.U.
15 Likes
HIi All,
I was doing an inventory of all of my wheels and tires needs working and realized just how many small, mini and one piece hub wheels I have in my life!
14 in just this one picture. Plus 6 wheel barrow. 12 riding lawnmower types. 6 bicycle wheels and tires.
So modify the Harbor Freight post stand to mount accept shaft axle types? See the round white tube shaft I’ve inserted in the center for axle hole holding. . . then need a block raising up to that level . . . and some way to hold the wheel and tire from rotating . . .
Or additionally buy a Harbor Freight Mini-tire changer system. Youtube users showing these need use modifications too.
So instead I am changing my base system to this wheel rim-clamper style system:
Skip to 18:00 minutes on this last one
This changer system shows in Amazon . . . listed as no longer available.
E-bay available in the USA from three different sources $139.-198. USD.
$133. USD but shipped out of the far East.
S.U.
11 Likes
I have a kit like that, it’s very handy. I lube up the valve stem so it can slide easier.
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Hi All,
I did receive, mount-up and use my made-in-Vietnam E-Bay rim-clamper system.
I can make it work from 4 1/2" wheel rims through 18" rims:
This E-Bay rim clamp one fits my needs completely.
I will now be gifting away the modified to work Harbor Freight one.
Here is a side-by-side video I had hoped would show both working. (No such luck.)
Does show the operator preferring the Rim-clamper system bead-breaker. It is stronger, with more range of adjustability.
But then the operator shows the same-same, you-know-no-better; mistakes; in the majority of these videos.
NOT lubing up adequately to allow the tire rubber to slide. Off. Then On. Then NOT needing the extreme forcing.
NOT keeping the off-side of the demounting/mounting tool-heads tires bead firmly pushed DOWN IN THE SMALLER DIAMETER CENTER DROP ZONE. Then creating slack at the steel wire core bead hoop.
Do these, then with the proper developed tools you will not need both arms and whole body ripping, tearing, and extreme torque twisting of the tires off and on.
One hand. 35-50 pound of force. The other hand then available to do the off-side pushing down.
DO rags wipe the lubes off as best you can before airing up and seating.
The best lubes are the commercial brands wax based, brush-on types. No-Mar’s water soluble gel. Both Ph neutral to not cause later wheels metals corrosions.
Ha! All-in-all; I’ll mostly use the post stand as an up-off-the-ground; up-off-my-knees; back-saver, wheels holder. Hand spoon barring off. Then back on. I can then walk-in the tire’s final positioning. Protect better tubes, in the tube types.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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I built this bender months ago to make my heat exchanger. Can’t believe how much I have used it since then. Here I am using it to make my hopper condensation tank from 16 gauge steel.
GC
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Hey Garry, A bender is pretty cool. But its hard for me to tell how yours works. Could you explain it? Maybe make a video or something for us?
Rindert
P.S. I’m making a slip roll. So what you’re doing is real interesting to me.
5 Likes
It is kinda like a press brake, but instead of the top die coming straight down, it comes down in an arc. The pivot point is about 3” behind the bending point and the handle is 5’ long. I won’t be at the shop for a few days but I will post a picture from the side that will explain it better when I get back.
GC
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